Question for cannoneers

[Gobblerforge]

As some here remember, I built my cannon over the winter from various other things. I like doing things that way. Well it has been a hoot so far shooting this thing and I have worked up to what I think is just the right boom for when friends are over and they want to see it go off. My bore is about 2" in diameter and I have worked up to shooting 2.5oz. of 2F Goex and then a wad of one hot dog bun tamped tightly. Making loads up to 2oz. produced a nice pow and that was all fun, but now at 2.5oz. there is a marked boom.
Q. Did my hot dog bun wad finally reach 1128 fps. and I am hearing the sonic boom?
Q. What happens to a hot dog bun a mach one?
Q. If no wading is used, can a cannon load of black powder break the sound barrier and would tamping harder help?
My neighbor said I rattled his garage door a little. That's at .3 miles away through the trees. Since we are on a ridge top, we get a real good echo for 6 or 8 seconds. Pretty cool.
Gobbler

[JReed]

Q. Did my hot dog bun wad finally reach 1128 fps. and I am hearing the sonic boom?
Q. What happens to a hot dog bun a mach one?
Gobbler

Do you have a chrony you can shoot it over?
I don't know what happens but that is what I call fast food.

[Modoc ED]

Q. Did my hot dog bun wad finally reach 1128 fps. and I am hearing the sonic boom?
Q. What happens to a hot dog bun a mach one?
Gobbler

Do you have a chrony you can shoot it over?
I don't know what happens but that is what I call fast food.

Hey Jeremy!! If ya super size it, it comes with fries and a shake.

[Motex66]

Are they toasted?
John

[Chas.]

Would that be a Sonic hot dog?

[JReed]

Q. Did my hot dog bun wad finally reach 1128 fps. and I am hearing the sonic boom?
Q. What happens to a hot dog bun a mach one?
Gobbler

Do you have a chrony you can shoot it over?
I don't know what happens but that is what I call fast food.

Hey Jeremy!! If ya super size it, it comes with fries and a shake.

[bmtshooter]

Not trying to sound like I'm preaching here, but I'd suggest some research on cannon SAFETY. Here is a source of some good information:
http://www.artillerymanmagazine.com/safety_rules.html

There is enough potential energy in that much black powder to injure several people......be careful.

[Gobblerforge]

Jeramy. No, I don't have a chronograph available to me, or I certainly would.
"Fast food". I love it. I have found little chunks of "toast" in the past. 100 yards is the max so far. This was out of a friends cannon firing 1/3 lb. powder in a 2.5" bore and three hot dog buns, not mine.

Not trying to sound like I'm preaching here, but I'd suggest some research on cannon SAFETY. Here is a source of some good information:
http://www.artillerymanmagazine.com/safety_rules.html

There is enough potential energy in that much black powder to injure several people......be careful.

By all means, please talk safety. What part of what I am doing gives you pause?. I have done a lot of reading and studying on the subject but even the experts don't agree on everything. The NMRA has good guidelines as well as other websites. Procedures are strait forward and I tend to be a stickler on safety anyhow. I am confident the safety marks have all been met but if there is something I need to know, well by all means, chime in.
Gobbler

[lthardman]

I shoot cannons, but all my tubes are purchased. I make carriages for the tubes that I buy. I am a little surprised at your choice of powder granulation. I shoot a cannon grade BP, which is a bit courser at fg. I recognize you already have successful experience, but I would still keep everyone well away from the gun when it fires. 2.5 oz of 2fg seems like a lot according to those I learned from. Also, I was taught that there is a law of diminishing returns on sound versus quantity of black powder. As you add BP, you can actually get a reduced boom. I am the first to admit that I have not done a scientific test on this however. Be careful with the wads, I would not pack them too tight, and I would still recommend a cannon lock (they are cheap) and percussion cap instead of fuse to be sure the downfield range stays safe.

[JReed]

Be careful with the wads, I would not pack them too tight, and I would still recommend a cannon lock (they are cheap) and percussion cap instead of fuse to be sure the downfield range stays safe.

Gobbler I have seen pic's of your work. It shouldn't be to hard for you to smith your own lock. Basically just a hammer and spring with a string released sear D/T the gun for a nipple and away you go. Food for thought.

[Gobblerforge]

Be careful with the wads, I would not pack them too tight, and I would still recommend a cannon lock (they are cheap) and percussion cap instead of fuse to be sure the downfield range stays safe.

Gobbler I have seen pic's of your work. It shouldn't be to hard for you to smith your own lock. Basically just a hammer and spring with a string released sear D/T the gun for a nipple and away you go. Food for thought.

I have thought about the lock method, and if I go that way, I will make it myself. But at this point I still enjoy the fuse method.
Gobbler

[bdhold]

safety is good.
Photos would also be good.

[bmtshooter]

Gobbler,

My concern was over tamping a hot dog bun down harder over the charge. Cannon accidents frequently are the result of an unanticipated charge ignition during the loading sequence. I imagine you are indeed taking all the necessary precautions. Also, what folks tend to forget, is that when there is any type wadding added, they are no longer firing "blank" loads. The wadding can become a projectile with unanticipated consequences.

My message was intended for those folks who are not familiar with cannon range safety procedures.

Your cannon sounds like a "blast" to shoot (so to speak).....enjoy !

[lthardman]

Gobbler, I would be happy to take some pics of my cannon lock. They may help if you decide to make one on your own. I will try to get to it tomorrow.

[Gobblerforge]

Gobbler, I would be happy to take some pics of my cannon lock. They may help if you decide to make one on your own. I will try to get to it tomorrow.

Sure. I'm always looking for ideas
Gobbler

[lthardman]

Gobbler, here is my poor attempt at providing you with pictures. The first pictures shows all the parts. This includes the actual brass lock plate with hammer, two mounting screws, one nipple shown on the brass gimlet, along with the lanyard and handle.

The next picture is a close-up of the lock plate and hammer. This is the position that the hammer would be in after firing.

Essentially, you drill and tap the vent hole in your gun for the nipple. Mine required a 5/16 by 24tpi tapped hole. Then after screwing in the nipple, you mount the lock plate such that the nipple protrudes through the big hole in the lock plate. Then, mark the holes for the lock plate mounting screws, drill and tap them, and secure the mounting plate.

One key to the whole operation is to make sure that the lanyard fits within a groove on the bottom of the hammer. The lanyard actually is secured to the back of the hammer with a knot, but then goes through a hole drilled to the front of the hammer and follows the groove towards the rear. That is what I attempted to show in the following two pictures.




You load the cannon normally. Then you puncture the powder bag with the gimlet through the nipple. Then, carefully put a percussion cap (winged type work best) on the nipple, and make sure the hammer is tilted all the way back and that the lanyard is in the groove. When ready to fire, give the layard a short snap like pull. Boom.

Hope that helps if you decide to go this way.

[Gobblerforge]

lthardman. Thanks a bunch. that is a wonderfully simple and efficient system. I had also considered forging a spring and designed a system not too much different from a gun lock. They all work. One question comes to mind right off the bat is that since I have over an inch of steel in the cannon wall to get to the powder through, does a percussion cap shoot the spark that far and would it be consistent?

[lthardman]

So far I have not had an issue using the percussion cap. One big key, of course, is to make sure you have punctured the powder bag with the gimlet, to give that spark a way to get to the powder. I have had no mis-fires. I also have at least an inch between the chamber wall and the nipple. I have wondered at times if I should use a hotter percussion cap, perhaps one of those "209" caps used in modern muzzle loaders. But, I have not had an issue. I suppose one could dribble a little powder down the nipple/vent hole if a mis-fire occured. But so far, no need.

[Gobblerforge]

Lord knows we don't need to go looking for problems that don't exist. When it works, it works.
Another question. I have heard that putting a load of saw dust in front of the powder gives a little fire ball after leaving the bore. Ever heard or done this? It would be a nice effect.
Gobbler

[Doc Hudson]

I don't know about the sawdust, sounds like a great way to start a big fire.

Just remember what happened during the Battle of the Wilderness in the Spring of 1864. Raging fires caused by fibrous cannon wad burned many wounded men to death on both sides.

[Cruise]

I once used a 75mm and rolls of toilet paper worked verrrry well!