NOS old Stoves and OOS grunts...

[Old Ironsights]

My rental came with an... E1 rigged pellet stove insert that was not quite effectively turned into a free standing unit.



I need heat in the garage/man cave.

So I am replacing the "Enlisted grunt special" with a MilSpec NIB as issued "Heater, Space, Radiant, Large (H-45).



I'm torally familiar with the Arctic BFE "Yukon Stove" but not so much the H-45.

Yes, I will be using the drip plate.

Any advice beyond "RTFM"?

[Grizz]

I heated a small cabin in winter alaska with a similar sheet metal stove, civilian model I suppose.

It doesn't bank a fire well, but you may have access to hardwoods.

It was safe to topload it once the fire had gotten to the charcoal/gassifier stage. This kept the fire where it belongs.

It helps to have the air supply as close to airtight as you can get it to shut it down if it wants to take off.

You will have plenty of draft with that stack, you could add a stack robber, and or a damper, but I don't like dampers on the exhaust side of my heaters, and control inlet air.

Keep a bucket of water handy of course, "just in case".


P.S.

if you have access to fire bricks you could use them underneath and around the outside for some thermal mass. the sheetmetal stoves cool down very fast when the fire starts dying.

[Old Ironsights]

This one is the "Type II" unit that runs on JP4, JP5, JP8, Kerosene, Gasoline or Diesel as well as wood or coal.

[Tycer]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=okCCxtKKFFI

[Blaine]

I looked up RTFM.....

When I was in ROK, all the Quonset Huts were heated by the old diesel stoves. Looked like converted 55 gal drums, and you hooked up a jerry can of diesel each morning. It was the CQ's job to get that puppy lit, and warmed up before 0600 PT formation, and he needed a flashlight to do it. This one idiot was relieved of that duty after he left the flashlight on top of the stove after lighting it.

[3leggedturtle]

Blaine, was he really dumb or just smarter then most?

[Blaine]

Blaine, was he really dumb or just smarter then most?

Nope.... Frank Carroll.....your basic box of rocks..... Now that I think of it, that was the morning of the IG Inspection. Orderly Room was perfect, and immaculate. Frank used the fire extinguisher in a very haphazard manner...... Copious amounts of pelosi rolled downhill that morning.......

[Old Ironsights]

Blaine, was he really dumb or just smarter then most?

Nope.... Frank Carroll.....your basic box of rocks..... Now that I think of it, that was the morning of the IG Inspection. Orderly Room was perfect, and immaculate. Frank used the fire extinguisher in a very haphazard manner...... Copious amounts of pelosi rolled downhill that morning.......

Well... (war story... ignore as you will)

When I was a Yoot, I was poor enough to "volunteer" to work in the school cafeteria in order to get "free" lunch.

I learned a lot about washing trays and flatware.

When I went to Basic as a NG grunt between my Junior and Senior year at HS, I was put on the KP roster ONCE.

That ONE time I was in the mess hall, I essentially took over the tray line and made it work efficiently (hell, I'd been doing it for 3 years...).

Cookie and the DIs were so PO'd at me for making the tray line short and efficient (they couldn't scream and the poor **** standing at attention while holding a dirty tray and Cookie couldn't yell at the KPs for being slow, useless @^*^$&^@$!!!!s) that I was BANNED from the mess hall unless I was eating... which, for my insane metabolism at the time meant having the Mess DI scream at me while I shoveled 3,000cal+ every meal. (This skinny kid gained 60lb of Army Muscle during basic. 120 to 180 in 10 weeks...)

But I never had to do KP again in 4 years Service.

[Grizz]

This one is the "Type II" unit that runs on JP4, JP5, JP8, Kerosene, Gasoline or Diesel as well as wood or coal.

I imagine you know, but some readers may not know, that switching to wood from liquid fuels sometimes causes catastrophic house fires. The carbon coating the stack can reach ignition temps from the wood fire. This happens enough that I've read it from several sources. wood heat itself will creosote the stack.

I have an insulated stack on my woodstove in ak, and burning wet icy or green wood will creosote the stack. This is especially so for heating fires that are banked and made to gassify the wood with low air supply.

My maintenance is to wait for the stove to be cold, and put crumpled newspaper into the stack and light it. when it ignites the creosote it makes a noise somewhat like jake brake. this is where the airtight firebox comes into play. if the creosote sounds like it's burning too hot I shut the doors and choke it out, or down. it can still burn because it can draw O2 from the top, but it's not efficient. on rare occasions it takes a second newspaper treatment to clean the stack. this is spectacular to watch from outside, but it isn't dangerous, and is much less threatening than having the creosote fire off with a hot fire in the box. that kind of stackfire can melt the stack with obvious problems to follow. with a single stack like the one in your picture the fire can destroy the stack and make a genuine mess. I kept a garden hose with spray nozzle close by when doing the maintenance burn.

[horsesoldier03]

This one is the "Type II" unit that runs on JP4, JP5, JP8, Kerosene, Gasoline or Diesel as well as wood or coal.

I imagine you know, but some readers may not know, that switching to wood from liquid fuels sometimes causes catastrophic house fires. The carbon coating the stack can reach ignition temps from the wood fire. This happens enough that I've read it from several sources. wood heat itself will creosote the stack.

I have an insulated stack on my woodstove in ak, and burning wet icy or green wood will creosote the stack. This is especially so for heating fires that are banked and made to gassify the wood with low air supply.

My maintenance is to wait for the stove to be cold, and put crumpled newspaper into the stack and light it. when it ignites the creosote it makes a noise somewhat like jake brake. this is where the airtight firebox comes into play. if the creosote sounds like it's burning too hot I shut the doors and choke it out, or down. it can still burn because it can draw O2 from the top, but it's not efficient. on rare occasions it takes a second newspaper treatment to clean the stack. this is spectacular to watch from outside, but it isn't dangerous, and is much less threatening than having the creosote fire off with a hot fire in the box. that kind of stackfire can melt the stack with obvious problems to follow. with a single stack like the one in your picture the fire can destroy the stack and make a genuine mess. I kept a garden hose with spray nozzle close by when doing the maintenance burn.

Definitely have a frequent maintenance plan for cleaning the stove pipe. NEVER use straight MOGAS or gasoline. 2/3 Diesel 1/3 gas is the max dose of gas that I would use. I would also make sure that I put the gas can outside of the garage. I have seen way too many GP Smalls and Mediums go up in flames. Thankfully none of them were ever mine! Don't forget a Carbon Monoxide Detector.

[Old Ironsights]

This one is the "Type II" unit that runs on JP4, JP5, JP8, Kerosene, Gasoline or Diesel as well as wood or coal.

I imagine you know, but some readers may not know, that switching to wood from liquid fuels sometimes causes catastrophic house fires. The carbon coating the stack can reach ignition temps from the wood fire. This happens enough that I've read it from several sources. wood heat itself will creosote the stack.

I have an insulated stack on my woodstove in ak, and burning wet icy or green wood will creosote the stack. This is especially so for heating fires that are banked and made to gassify the wood with low air supply.

My maintenance is to wait for the stove to be cold, and put crumpled newspaper into the stack and light it. when it ignites the creosote it makes a noise somewhat like jake brake. this is where the airtight firebox comes into play. if the creosote sounds like it's burning too hot I shut the doors and choke it out, or down. it can still burn because it can draw O2 from the top, but it's not efficient. on rare occasions it takes a second newspaper treatment to clean the stack. this is spectacular to watch from outside, but it isn't dangerous, and is much less threatening than having the creosote fire off with a hot fire in the box. that kind of stackfire can melt the stack with obvious problems to follow. with a single stack like the one in your picture the fire can destroy the stack and make a genuine mess. I kept a garden hose with spray nozzle close by when doing the maintenance burn.

Definitely have a frequent maintenance plan for cleaning the stove pipe. NEVER use straight MOGAS or gasoline. 2/3 Diesel 1/3 gas is the max dose of gas that I would use. I would also make sure that I put the gas can outside of the garage. I have seen way too many GP Smalls and Mediums go up in flames. Thankfully none of them were ever mine! Don't forget a Carbon Monoxide Detector.

Agreed on all counts. Running a fuel line to outside is (was) not a problem.

I won't use mogas on anything with a fractional chance of vapor detonation. Diesel and Kerosene work just fine.

The chimney pipe in this garage is double wall insulated pipe except for the stove to flue elbow.

I don't really have to worry about CO in this space. It's not insulated and has open vents at both peak ends and is detached from the house...and has a car and MC in it all winter.

I grew up heating a house with Pine. I know creosote.

I'm now waiting on a decent/inspected Jerry Can and the Milspec stand for it.