Any electricians on here…?

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AJMD429
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Any electricians on here…?

Post by AJMD429 »

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Like with many things, I know a little, but not a lot when it comes to wiring. I know enough practical stuff from assisting an electrician as a kid, reading tons of books, and learning enough electrical code compliance to have wired three houses and one office all the way from the meter base onward, however, I have a situation I’m not sure of a solution for.

The building is the house I grew up in which is next-door to our house now and it is not been occupied for 10 or 15 years. We left the electricity on because we do have freezers of food in there but other outdoor lighting and stuff comes from the source.

Mice got into a breaker box, and build a nest right on top of the main breaker. Overtime I suspect the mouse pee was what caused the corrosion I’ll post a picture of.

IMG_5046.png
I got it all cleaned out, and the insulation everywhere is intact. All the mouse nest and poop is cleaned out, but there is lots of rust on the cabinet. And the breakers are cruddy looking at least in the outside.

In all of the cases where I have done wiring and replaced an old breaker box with a new one the main breaker and box were bought together with the main breaker, already mounted to the bus.

I have no reason to think the breakers aren’t in working order other than suspicion, and I can certainly take a couple of the individual 20 amp breakers out and crack them apart to see what the innards look like. A couple of times during the remodeling we are doing we have managed to trip breakers by plugging and things like an air compressor and other large tools into the same outlet that was only low amperage, so at least some of the breakers work and I could test the individual circuit ones or just spend the money and replace them all if need be.

What I don’t know is how to safely test a 200 amp breaker… it is one thing to short a black to white with a screwdriver to test a 10 or 20 amp breaker, but not sure I’d want to be in the same room with such a method for a 200 amp one… :shock: :shock: and realistically, I would be more comfortable replacing it, even if it tested OK at the moment.

Plus, it just looks bad, and the other question is, can it be replaced without replacing the metal circuit breaker box that everything is in. As you can see, with my OCD, almost all of the circuits exit in conduit, so it would be a nightmare to have to physically remove the metal box and then try to find one that would be similar to this 20 year old box, much less thread all those wires back.

Whatever I do is going to require power shut off outside for a while by the electric company, and we do have two freezer loads of food, so for both of those reasons, whatever I do that requires the main power be off I’d like to do fairly quickly.

I can see that all of the wires, although looking cruddy, have their insulation intact. So my thought is to turn off all of the breakers label all of the wire pairs and remove all of the individual circuit breakers then see what the bottom part of the exposed breaker bus looks like. If it looks OK then hook the freezer breakers back up until I can get the power company to turn the power off for a day (then back on within freezer-thawing time). While the outside power is off I can take the main breaker off and see what stuff looks like under it, HOPEFULLY just replacing the breaker - if that’s even possible.

I can certainly take a wire brush and air compressor to the inside of the cabinet at that point to get the rest of the crud out and as much rust as possible. I suppose I could also safely paint it with some kind of primer approved for electric cabinets.

If the breaker bus appears to be in decent shape and I can replace the main breaker, then the rest seems to be easy and it’s just a matter of how many of the other breakers and/orI want to replace how much money I want to spend on them.

If the breaker bus sucks, or if there’s some reason I just can’t replace the main breaker, then my only other thought would be if I could put in another main breaker box that is new, wire everything up and then connect those new breakers in the new box (via however many pieces of conduit it would take for code purposes) to the old box and just use the old box as a large splicing box.

Doing the latter, without some major tearing into the walls would be difficult, but if I had to, I could route to the old box via the front panel cover by just putting conduit holes on it. I’d have to look up the wire density requirements, but I imagine it would only take a few pieces of conduit to house, all of the household circuits, coming from the actual (new) breaker box to the old splicing box if they were 2 inch or so.

Obviously, I certainly hope I can salvage the box in the breaker box and just replace the main breaker.

One electrician I talked to, said that the only way to do it would be to take a Sawzall to all the conduit and pull the box and replace it, then pull all of the individual circuit wires from the nearest destination and replace them, unless there were enough slack, somehow to get them back into the new box with a long enough section for a splice. That seems like an incredible amount of work…. I think he was hoping I’d give up and just pay him to do all that..
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Grizz
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Re: Any electricians on here…?

Post by Grizz »

volt meter is your friend. PLUS mice can strip insulation and make a fire hazard in the walls. with a volt-ohm meter measure the resistance across the breaker, with the main OFF. there is a number for that value. high resistance suggests corrosion. i would flip back and forth about 20 times and re-measure.
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you can use the meter as a continuity tester and map out the wiring to the outlets. is the house wiring copper or [gulp] aluminum? is it all romex?

all the rest you know already.
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we probably have the same level of appreciation for rodents. they can really mess up a vehicle.
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Re: Any electricians on here…?

Post by marlinman93 »

Breakers can be tested, regardless of size. But testing is usually costly enough that it's not much different than the cost of a new breaker. The 200A. main may be cheaper to test than buy new, but it's the only one.
If this was mine, I'd not replace any of the breakers. I was a licensed General Journeyman Electrician my whole life, and if I came upon this situation I would simply shut off the 200a. main breaker, and clean everything as good as possible. Whatever you don't get cleaned in an hour can wait as you can turn power back on and let fridge or freezers back down to temp, then shut off the main again and continue cleaning.
I wouldn't replace any breakers, and if the rust, etc. bothers you I'd cover up the main breaker and after shutting it off I'd clean and paint the inside of the enclosure also.
You might be able to buy a new 200A. main panel, and it might fit the enclosure, but it's against NEC rules to modify a new panel, and removing the guts from a new panel and putting it into the old enclosure is considered modifying it. Save yourself some money and time, and just clean it well. Be sure to also buy some knockout seals and close any holes so the mice can't get back inside and nest again after it's cleaned up. Looks like an old Siemens panel, and hopefully you still have the dead front cover?
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AJMD429
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Re: Any electricians on here…?

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Grizz wrote: Sun Apr 06, 2025 4:33 pm volt meter is your friend. PLUS mice can strip insulation and make a fire hazard in the walls. with a volt-ohm meter measure the resistance across the breaker, with the main OFF. there is a number for that value. high resistance suggests corrosion. i would flip back and forth about 20 times and re-measure.
.
you can use the meter as a continuity tester and map out the wiring to the outlets. is the house wiring copper or [gulp] aluminum? is it all romex?
Wiring all copper, and in metallic conduit for everything I re-did (90%) - which reflects my OCD plus my distrust for mice. The other I can see well in the attic and appears fine. I can test resistance against new brakers of same brand.
Thanks
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AJMD429
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Re: Any electricians on here…?

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marlinman93 wrote: Sun Apr 06, 2025 5:26 pm Breakers can be tested, regardless of size. But testing is usually costly enough that it's not much different than the cost of a new breaker. The 200A. main may be cheaper to test than buy new, but it's the only one.
If this was mine, I'd not replace any of the breakers. I was a licensed General Journeyman Electrician my whole life, and if I came upon this situation I would simply shut off the 200a. main breaker, and clean everything as good as possible. Whatever you don't get cleaned in an hour can wait as you can turn power back on and let fridge or freezers back down to temp, then shut off the main again and continue cleaning.
I wouldn't replace any breakers, and if the rust, etc. bothers you I'd cover up the main breaker and after shutting it off I'd clean and paint the inside of the enclosure also.
You might be able to buy a new 200A. main panel, and it might fit the enclosure, but it's against NEC rules to modify a new panel, and removing the guts from a new panel and putting it into the old enclosure is considered modifying it. Save yourself some money and time, and just clean it well. Be sure to also buy some knockout seals and close any holes so the mice can't get back inside and nest again after it's cleaned up. Looks like an old Siemens panel, and hopefully you still have the dead front cover?
Yeah I do have the front cover and all of it is ok other than the edge by the main breaker is rusty (that's how I knew something was wrong).

Honestly I think the way the breaker is made the plastic kept the mouse urine out of the insides, and it just dampened the outside, but where the breaker was against the steel panel that rusted.

Thanks.
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Re: Any electricians on here…?

Post by Walt »

You were talking about using compressed air to clean out the box. I don't know if hantavirus is an issue in your area but please mask up and use appropriate PPE in any case.
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Re: Any electricians on here…?

Post by GunnyMack »

Mice are bad, I'm with you Doc!
Couple years ago I flipped a light switch and nothing turned on. For years if a lightbulb blew in that room the breaker would trip. I questioned multiple electricians and no one could tell me why.
Well that breaker would not stay engaged...
I ran continuity from reciptical to reciptical, switch to lights- all was good but the electrons didn't flow.
I finally demo'ed the whole room. It wasn't until I took up a small piece of floor in a dead space behind a wall that I found insulation chewed off wires where the mice were chewing the wall plates to gain access from floor to floor.
I rewired with BX( now called MC)- they can't chew that!
Talk about a scary situation, all that was going through my mind was how did this not catch fire!? Now I understand why the breaker would trip.
I was into it this far so I reinsulated the walls, added some new lighting and new drywall and trim.
Before I finished the work I added a bunch of mouse bait under the floor where they were chewing.
I'm now running a trap line in the house year round!
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Re: Any electricians on here…?

Post by gcs »

Frankly, I'd clean it up best you can and leave it, it's all working. check the ugliest breakers if you want but I bet they're ok. Old boxes in damp cellars aren't usually pretty anyway....but as always YMMV
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Re: Any electricians on here…?

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Have you figured out where the mice got into the box? Open knockouts or what? Be sure to fix those openings so it doesn't happen again.
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Re: Any electricians on here…?

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marlinman93 wrote: Mon Apr 07, 2025 2:13 pm Have you figured out where the mice got into the box? Open knockouts or what? Be sure to fix those openings so it doesn't happen again.
I was having that same thought this morning on the way to the job.
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Re: Any electricians on here…?

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Walt wrote: Sun Apr 06, 2025 8:39 pm You were talking about using compressed air to clean out the box. I don't know if hantavirus is an issue in your area but please mask up and use appropriate PPE in any case.
That is a very good point. Thanks for the reminder.
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Re: Any electricians on here…?

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GunnyMack wrote: Mon Apr 07, 2025 5:31 pm
marlinman93 wrote: Mon Apr 07, 2025 2:13 pm Have you figured out where the mice got into the box? Open knockouts or what? Be sure to fix those openings so it doesn't happen again.
I was having that same thought this morning on the way to the job.
The 2" conduit that goes up to the attic has a couple Romex cables in it and plenty of space - that's the only place they could get in.

I'm not sure what to seal it up with though - metallic things mice couldn't chew through would seem a bit risky to cram up in there. I could use 'Great Stuff' foam maybe they wouldn't bother.

I know there are reasons you need long conduit runs to have air able to circulate, but this is just a 2-3 foot stub to attic space.

Anyone know if MOTH BALLS harm insulation...? I thought I might put a few in the bottom of the circuit breaker box.... but wouldn't want to find they deteriorate insulation.
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Re: Any electricians on here…?

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I would stuff copper wool in the end of the conduit or even steel wool. They will chew the foam out as fast as you can spray it in! Not sure if the stuff electricians use to seal wire penetrations is mouse resistant or not. I can't remember the correct term for it... I know it as monkey sπ¥t. It's grey and sticky.
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Re: Any electricians on here…?

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GunnyMack wrote: Tue Apr 08, 2025 2:33 pm I would stuff copper wool in the end of the conduit or even steel wool. They will chew the foam out as fast as you can spray it in! Not sure if the stuff electricians use to seal wire penetrations is mouse resistant or not. I can't remember the correct term for it... I know it as monkey sπ¥t. It's grey and sticky.
Excellent idea for copper or steel wool. Mice hate either. Might consider pushing it just below flush and then squirt some foam over it. If by chance they ate the foam they'd stop at the steel wool.
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I'd push the wool down past flush, squirt in the foam then stick mouse killer bait into the foam ! If they want to chew then give them something good to chew first!
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Re: Any electricians on here…?

Post by gcs »

steel wool is the gold standard for filling gaps, no need to foam it too, shove it in, both sides of the pipe if you can and poison the lil buggers....
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Re: Any electricians on here…?

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gcs wrote: Thu Apr 10, 2025 6:10 am steel wool is the gold standard for filling gaps, no need to foam it too, shove it in, both sides of the pipe if you can and poison the lil buggers....
Not sure I'd stuff steel wool in both ends of the pipe, or want to have it on the panel end. If they got past the top then they're super mice and will get past the bottom too.
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