Lubrication for Rossi 92

[bcraig]

I have never owned a 92 and going to put some red grease on mine and wondering where are the key points to put some grease on and keep on ?
Going to use a q-tip to put a little on those key places.


Thanks

[Jeff H]

Lubriplate 130 (what they issued for rifles during WWII and is still available), sparingly, on the locking bolts, nose of the lever which actuates the bolt, bottom and sides of the bolt, on the sides of the lifter/carrier, particularly near the ball/detent.

Everything else gets the original Break-Free, CLP, again, sparingly.

Inside the magazine tube, mag spring and follower get CLEANED and "lubed" with paste wax.

Works for me. I'm sure there are other useful lubes and varying opinions on their application, but this is what I've been using for a long time and have had excellent results. I did not know what the Lubriplate was for two, three decades. My dad gave me an 8 ounce jar many years ago with the advice I'd never need anything else for grease. Last semester, one of my students consulted with a lube tech who works where my dad retired from and he knew exactly what it was. I like the original Break-Free, though many don't. I just know that when we started using it in the Army, my chore of cleaning an M203 and Ma-Deuce after a range day or exercise got a lot easier and the rattle-trap M16 part of the M203 started functioning a lot more reliably.

[bcraig]

Lubriplate 130 (what they issued for rifles during WWII and is still available), sparingly, on the locking bolts, nose of the lever which actuates the bolt, bottom and sides of the bolt, on the sides of the lifter/carrier, particularly near the ball/detent.

Everything else gets the original Break-Free, CLP, again, sparingly.

Inside the magazine tube, mag spring and follower get CLEANED and "lubed" with paste wax.

Works for me. I'm sure there are other useful lubes and varying opinions on their application, but this is what I've been using for a long time and have had excellent results. I did not know what the Lubriplate was for two, three decades. My dad gave me an 8 ounce jar many years ago with the advice I'd never need anything else for grease. Last semester, one of my students consulted with a lube tech who works where my dad retired from and he knew exactly what it was. I like the original Break-Free, though many don't. I just know that when we started using it in the Army, my chore of cleaning an M203 and Ma-Deuce after a range day or exercise got a lot easier and the rattle-trap M16 part of the M203 started functioning a lot more reliably.

I am just going to use the grease
I have used CLP and while it is ok I prefer Grease for moving parts

Like Brylcreem a little dab will do ya
Although I dont have any, I dont need anything ,with no more hair than I have now I can comb my hair with a wash cloth !

Thanks

[Griff]

I've started using Lucas' "RedNTacky" synthetic grease everywhere I used to use other brands/products.

[JimT]

I run my '92 mostly dry. Wipe with an oily rag and then with a dry rag.

[bcraig]

I've started using Lucas' "RedNTacky" synthetic grease everywhere I used to use other brands/products.

I have never used Lucas Grease but I have used a little Lucas Oil in Vehicles

Thanks

[bcraig]

I run my '92 mostly dry. Wipe with an oily rag and then with a dry rag.

That sounds like it would work pretty good, wipe most of it off which would leave just a tiny bit on the key surfaces.

Thanks Jim

[Pat C]

The 1892 will wear out locking blocks at top from camming bolt into battery making headspace grow to the point extractor won't pop over rim anymore. . I've had to replace several block on older well used rifles.

If I'm shooting one ,a little dab of grease or CLP in the locking block mortise of bolt ,rails,finger lever pin and cam area.

[Scott Tschirhart]

I look at the wear points and put a dab of red axle grease wherever I see bare metal. I don’t use a lot because I don’t want to gather too much dirt and grit in there.

The exterior gets wiped down with Ballistol.

[JimT]

The 1892 will wear out locking blocks at top from camming bolt into battery making headspace grow to the point extractor won't pop over rim anymore. . I've had to replace several block on older well used rifles.

If I'm shooting one ,a little dab of grease or CLP in the locking block mortise of bolt ,rails,finger lever pin and cam area.

Many of the older Winchesters are "soft" with it being nearly impossible to get a Rockwell Hardness reading on them is what I was told. I have no way of proving or disproving it.

The Rossi 92's tested by Regan Nonneman averaged out at a Rockwell Hardness of 20.

[ywaltzucanrknrl]

Wow, I don't know a ton about steel, but 20 strikes me as being very soft. A carbon steel knife is generally between 45 to 52 and stock mild tubing steel (not hardened) that we test in the industry I work in is typically around 45, but can vary widely.

The last copper we tested was around 20.

[Grizz]

I use $Dollar Store Cosmoline . . . vaseline as a preservative and perhaps a drop of 3in1 oil if something is too dry. [Oh My ]
.
grease and oils can collect dust and that can work as an abrasive on moving parts . . . which might be serendipitous in some cases . . .

grizz

[Pat C]

Yeah they are not super hard, I'll find out though and report back .I have several worn pairs to check. The bolts can be weld built and reground as matched set .

[Pat C]

Well I made some interesting finds, I checked a couple locking blocks original WRA .They are case hardened in the white when new. I got anywhere from 35 HRC to 50 HRC
A file does glide across this pair.

The real shocker was an early color case hardened hammer was around 18 HRC (below my gage) app. As you can see it was heavily damaged from firing pin . You can see traces of color case .

I could have swore that they were softer , have a feeling they vary considerably. I might check some in rifles too.

[JimT]

Thank you Pat C .... interesting stuff.