Suggestions please, for beginner reloading 30-30

[Fess]

I am finally getting around to using the reloading tools I bought many years ago. I have spent waaay too much time reading posts from reloaders who spend a great deal of time trying to get the perfect seating depth for modern cartridges. My reloading manuals all just give an OAL rather than a distance-to-lands. I have a Hornady measuring tool to measure the seating depth when a bullet hits the rifling.

I will be starting off with some Berry's 150 grain bullets and some Winchester 150 grain round noses and would like a suggestion for how far from the lands I should start with them.
Thanks.

[765x53]

Don't worry about it. Load up. Shoot up. Have fun!

[Catshooter]

If your .30-30 is a bench rest rifle then you should seat the bullet just short of touching the lands. No one can tell you where that is because it varies rifle to rifle.

If your .30-30 is a regular rifle (lever or whatever) then do as 765x53 suggests: load 'em up and have fun. Loading to the lands may or may not make any difference at all. And if you're using iron sights you very likely won't be able to tell any way.


Cat

[earlmck]

If you're loading 30/30 you are probably shooting a lever gun. That OAL in the loading manuals is the length that will work through the action of all lever guns. Your gun will probably take a cartridge a bit longer, but not a lot longer without hanging up. Your main concern is good fit for good function, safe load and go have some fun.

[piller]

Load it to the cannelure and don't go beyond the book value overall length. The .30-30 is a great do most things caliber, and it rarely is necessary to be too exacting in loading it. If you get it to consistently group 1 to 2 inches at 100 yards, that is plenty for most hunting in which the .30-30 is an ideal caliber. Under field conditions, most people do not need more than that.

[Griff]

Load it to the cannelure and don't go beyond the book value overall length.

Exactly!Run an average of 4 or 5 five-shot groups and determine your average group size. If it ain't satisfactory, THEN make some small change, (one at a time) and run another 4 or 5 groups... Improvements in accuracy is strictly a gun-to-gun proposition. Ain't anything set in stone... Even my best shooting levergun (¾" groups), doesn't care if the bullet touches the lands. I do however, as the load is pretty much maxed out!

[1894cfan]

If you have any 748, try 34.5gr with 150gr bullets! That's what the Win powder manuals have been listing for a LONG time. Works too! HTH

[AJMD429]

Load it to the cannelure and don't go beyond the book value overall length. The .30-30 is a great do most things caliber, and it rarely is necessary to be too exacting in loading it. If you get it to consistently group 1 to 2 inches at 100 yards, that is plenty for most hunting in which the .30-30 is an ideal caliber. Under field conditions, most people do not need more than that.

Yep...don’t overthink it.

[Sarge]

Many years ago, Hobie put me onto this H4895 load with the Sierra 150 grain 30-30 bullet. I have used the max listed charge, which should of course be worked up to, in at least a half-dozen 94 Winchesters using primarily WW brass. It's proven to be a powerful, accurate load that works great with a 200 yard zero; and an excellent game killer to boot. I've quit looking and experimenting with 30-30 loads. It's that good.

I just crimp in the middle of the cannelure and everything else takes care of itself. I do trim, chamfer and deburr every case, every time.



ETA- Thanks Hobie!

[Fess]

Thanks for the suggestions. I know that I have been overthinking it, but after 20 or so years of visiting sites like AccurateShooter.com, where benchrest shooters agonize about a tenth of a grain of powder and a couple thousands of an inch jump to the lands, it is tough to change the mindset. Years ago I purchased a pound of IMR 3031 and one of H4895 for normal full-power loads, but lately I have been looking at reduced-recoil loads to be easier on my damaged back and spine. I am aware of reduced loads with H4895 and have also managed to get a container of Trail Boss (less than a pound, I recall) and recently found three of Accurate 5744. For a number of reasons, I will be lucky to get to a range more than a few times per year, so I am hoping to avoid needing a bunch of trips just to get loads that regularly hit the target.

The goal is merely to plink with these rifles, so I don't need to max out velocity for hunting. It has been a long time since I have done any shooting, so I want a load accurate enough to tell if my aim is improving. I think I'd find rifles that produce 4"-5" groups at 100 yards to be frustrating because I'd keep asking "Is it ME or the load" when I miss.

[piller]

Most 30-30 rifles are 3 inch groups or less at 100 yards. 1 inch groups are more rare.

[OldWin]

I used IMR3031 for years, but in the last few years have switched to W748. Seems to lower pressures a bit.
I find with cartridges like 30-30 in an average lever action carbine, it's best to not shoot paper targets too much. It's easy to lose sight of what these rifles are for.
For a 30-30 levergun, the best accuracy generally comes from rifles and carbines with shorter magazines.

[piller]

The 30-30 is an excellent hunting cartridge. It never really was loaded into paper punching rifles at numbers that were of any consequence. At reasonable distances, it is about as good as anything can be. Reasonable distances might mean different things based on skill level, but it has done the job for a long time. I suggest that you get some 150 grain bullets and start in on the low end of the loading manual recipes. Work up in half grain increments until accuracy improves. The recoil is pretty mild, and you might even try 130 grain bullets for less recoil. Eventually, you will find some loads that your gun likes. Part of the fun is trying it and working to what gives best results. Besides, if you do go hunting deer or wild pigs, or even black bear, it will do the job.

[RIHMFIRE]

The 30-30 is an excellent hunting cartridge. It never really was loaded into paper punching rifles at numbers that were of any consequence. At reasonable distances, it is about as good as anything can be. Reasonable distances might mean different things based on skill level, but it has done the job for a long time. I suggest that you get some 150 grain bullets and start in on the low end of the loading manual recipes. Work up in half grain increments until accuracy improves. The recoil is pretty mild, and you might even try 130 grain bullets for less recoil. Eventually, you will find some loads that your gun likes. Part of the fun is trying it and working to what gives best results. Besides, if you do go hunting deer or wild pigs, or even black bear, it will do the job.

agreed....
Each rifle will have its favorite load....ya just have to experiment for a bit...

[Fess]

The 30-30 that I intend to work with first has a 20" octagonal barrel that I hope will reduce the effect of the magazine on accuracy. At the time I got it, I had read an article or two that claimed that stiffer-barreled leverguns, especially ones with octagonal barrels, were more likely to be accurate. That's how I ended up with a Winchester Canadian Centennial model from 1967 which had never been fired. It was the least expensive octagon-barreled levergun I could find at the time (and the only one I could afford). A little later, about the time it was announced that Winchester was closing its New Haven plant, two M94 AE's somehow followed me home. I had not PLANNED to get two more...... but you guys know how it happens...... I found one at a good price and danged if I didn't find another at an even BETTER price the next day......

When I started getting back into firearms about 20 years ago, I had big plans and intended to do lots of tinkering with the model 94's. I thought of putting another octagonal barrel I had onto one of the two 94AE's I had acquired. I bought a half-cock tang with trigger and hammer to do a conversion, etc. As often happens, plans changed and I am just now getting around to shooting again. My eyes are not as sharp now that I am 60, so there is a good chance that I will need to use a scope to even see a 100-yard target. I know that some consider scoped 94's to be heresy, but if you can't see the target, there is not much point to shooting.

I don't claim that it is a brilliantly conceived strategy to get at least one of these rifles shooting well, but after thinking about it all these years I am determined to give it a try. Mulish determination is probably the best description. I have several hundred 150 grain bullets, a few different powders, and most importantly these days, a box of primers. I also have various precision micrometers, calipers, as well as some gizmos and doohickies, so I can measure to my heart's content, even though it sounds like it won't really be necessary.

[OldWin]

Most of those commemoratives are actually pretty good shooters.
And yes, the stiffer barrel of a rifle, and the way in which the magazine is attached to the barrel, in most cases insures more accuracy.

[1894cfan]

Since you mentioned reduced loads in 30/30, I'd suggest going over to Marlinowners.com, scroll down to the reloading section, then click on the Light loads in 30/30 sticky. LOTS of listings for light loads there, plus LOTS of good reading, too. One that's been listed is 10gr Unique under 100/110gr bullets. Matter of fact, I think that one has been listed here some. One I've had good luck with is 110/125gr bullets with 8gr Trail Boss. HTH

[stretch]

In the 30/30 -or any cartridge for that matter - consistency in reloading will probably
do more for accuracy than minute adjustments in OAL. Start with cases the same length,
be fussy with your powder weights and OAL, and crimp consistently. When you get a load that the
gun likes, then you can play with OAL a few thousandths at a time.

Note that if you're up to MAX loads, be careful shortening the OAL, as that will increase
pressure and not always in a linear fashion.

And make sure that your crimp remains in the cannelure if you fool with OAL.

Like others have said - -HAVE FUN - that's the object of the exercise!

-Stretch

[44shooter]

Most bullet makers have a bullet or three designed specifically for 30-30s to work in lever actions. Just crimp in the cannelure. I wouldn't mess with other bullets designs or changes in length unless I were using a single shot or box mag

[horsesoldier03]

I am in the same boat. I was lucky enough to find the dies, however, Jacketed Bullets are no where to be found. Looking at trying 115-120 grain cast with pistol powders. Still waiting for the light weight bullets.

[Griff]

Speer makes a dandy 130 gr FP and Sierra makes a great 125 gr HP, both make great reduced load bullets. Jacketed, and at least I can attest to how great the 125 HP is on coyotes...

While I've loaded hundreds of the 125s in my .30-30, I purchased an overrun of them without a cannelure just before Sierra packed their bags and moved to MO. I've recently run out and a couple of years ago I went to Sierra and purchased a bulk quantity of 500! I like them in my '66 Centennial.

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As you can see, it wears a tang sight. @ 70 my vision is far from what it once was... but... with a tang sight, and a fairly small aperture, it just seems to disappear and what I see is a nice clear view of my post front sight inside a blurry circle... and if I don't think about it, it just seems to center itself and when overlaid against my target... WHAM!, a hole appears there!