How to improve accuracy in a BLR?

[Blackhawk]

I traded into a BLR in 7mm-08 a couple weeks ago. I took and shot it and got 1 inch groups at 25 yards. I didnt get to shoot further than that so I'm not sure what it will do at longer distances, yet. One thing I did find was that the more the barrel heats up the more the varnish melts and makes a mess inside/outside of the forearm. You could see that it was gumming up around the barrelband so I took it apart and found more under the barrel. I sanded down the inside of the forearm so no varnish is left. When I put the barrelband back on I could see daylight under the top two shoulders. I didnt take a great deal of varnish off so I feel like the gap was there before just gummed up with varnish. Also I switched the barrelband around and it would not mount fully, like it was machined to go on one way. I've researched the Neil Jones in PA does good trigger work on the BLR's. Anyone have any tips or ideas how to make the BLR's more accurate incase this gun dont work out to shoot good groups? Anyone took the forearm off and shot for groups?

Johnny

[Tycer]

I have a 308 that shoots 1" at 25 and less than .5 at 100.

[Blackhawk]

Good deal!!! I need to try this gun out at 100 yards. One thing I thought of is how I laid the gun on a rest could have put pressure on the barrel. Need to try resting the magazine on the rest instead of the forearms.

Johnny

[BrentD]

Personally, I improved the accuracy of my BLR (Belgian .308) by selling it and buying a Sharps. Perhaps not the most helpful advice, but might be, in the long run, for the best.

[Pete44ru]

One thing I thought of is how I laid the gun on a rest could have put pressure on the barrel.

Need to try resting the magazine on the rest instead of the forearms.

Johnny

FWIW, in over 40 years, I've never gotten optimum accuracy, from ANY rifle with a 2-piece stock, by letting any part of the rifle touch either a front or rear rest.

Not that group size counts for hunting - since either only one shot is needed, and hurried followups to a first shot are just about guaranteed to be inaccurate - but I've gotten the best accuracy from a levergun by holding the rifle on the front rest tightly with my fore hand between the forend & the rest; and the BP tightly on my shoulder.


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[AJMD429]

FWIW, in over 40 years, I've never gotten optimum accuracy, from ANY rifle with a 2-piece stock, by letting any part of the rifle touch either a front or rear rest.

Not that group size counts for hunting - since either only one shot is needed, and hurried followups to a first shot are just about guaranteed to be inaccurate - but I've gotten the best accuracy from a levergun by holding the rifle on the front rest tightly with my fore hand between the forend & the rest; and the BP tightly on my shoulder.

Pretty much my experience as well.

[BrentD]

That has certainly not been mine, nor that of many many others who shoot various single-shot games from 100 yds, to 1000 yds. There, resting near the muzzle, near the forearm tip, or on the forearm all part very well represented in the record books and among the very best shooters across the nation and beyond.

As for levers, I don't get bad accuracy at all resting either on the mag tube near the muzzle or directly on the forearm. Neither is better than the other so far as I have determined with 4 rifles so far. They don't have the accuracy of my singleshots, but then I don't expect them too, nor do I attempt to achieve the same levels of accuracy.

[gundownunder]

I got .4 of an inch at 50 out of the box consistently back when I had my BLR .222. I wouldn't be able to do any better than that no matter how good the gun was.
Next time somebody asks for a list of guns a bloke shouldn't have sold, that one will be on it.

[Blackhawk]

Agree and disagree. My 307 shoots .63 & .65 with 130's and 150's. Barrelband and/or too much tension on the end screw on the tube can affect accuracy. I have seen that putting pressure at different points on the tube can affect accuracy. I think it was Paco that wrote about putting a plastic washer in the end of the barrel between the tube and barrel to help with tension. I know Ranger Point Precision has a package for MOA on the levergun at 100yds. So it can be done. Also I shoot accuracy for fun, I shoot more than I hunt.

Johnny

[Lastmohecken]

My family and I own several BLR's, all .308 win, and the older steel frame models. I have found that consistently we get great accuracy out of ours. Mine, Which I have owned for 25yrs will still group around a couple of inches at a stepped off 200 steps.

They have all of the accuracy I need for the shooting and hunting I do.

On sporting rifles I always hold them and sight them in just like I intend to shoot while hunting. I don't use lead sleds or anything more fancy then a couple of sandbags or rolled up jacket over a car hood and I always hold the gun just like I would need to in the field with my off hand holding the for-end and the butt stock against my shoulder.

[mikld]

Rookie question, sorta. None of my shooting for "accuracy" has been with a lever gun, so; when resting the front part of the gun on the rest, forearm or bbl., do the shots scatter or just change point of impact?

[Pete44ru]

None of my shooting for "accuracy" has been with a lever gun, so;

when resting the front part of the gun on the rest, forearm or bbl.,

do the shots scatter
or
just change point of impact ?

IME, either, or both.


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[Tycer]

Rookie question, sorta. None of my shooting for "accuracy" has been with a lever gun, so; when resting the front part of the gun on the rest, forearm or bbl., do the shots scatter or just change point of impact?

On one particular Win 94 in 360 DW, the point of impact would remain constant if my placement and pressure was constant. I used tape on forearm and bag to line up the same each time. That gun would shoot several inches further to the left when I shot from the shoulder rather than bags. So I will use bags for load development, but will only use my shooting hold for adjusting sights.

[M. M. Wright]

Every one here who has been paying attention knows that I have bought, scoped, sighted in and shot groups with 14 BLRs, mostly 308s. Some Belgian, some Japanese and all have exhibited good accuracy. The tired, abused old veteran I keep for myself still shoots 1.5" groups. I recently took it mostly apart due to it having been out in the rain and the fore-arm has a milled flat place about even with the barrel band that has a wooden pad glued in to put a little pressure on the barrel. Looks factory and the varnish was applied over everything under there. It is an early Belgian and I want to pull off some more fore-arms to see if they are the same. The fore-arm is held on by a steel extension from the front of the receiver and a screw into the end of the extension. Sling swivels are attached to this screw which may cause some problems with accuracy. I made sure the inside of my barrel band is just barely touching the barrel of my old one. Probably something I should do to some others.
The biggest problem I have encountered with the BLRs is the very tight chambers they have and some with apparently rough and slightly barrel shaped chambers. I have made a hone that I fit with 400 grit wet or dry paper that screws onto a cleaning rod and turn it with a drill motor. With it I can polish the chambers without dis-assembly and all that cussed trial and error required to re-time the gears.
I still am of the opinion that the old steel BLRs are the best lever gun extant. Fitted with a Redfield Jr. mount and a high quality scope of 2.5 or 3 power they give one nearly the handling characteristics of a 94 with a range of 300 yards. I can ask for no more.

[CowboyTutt]

I had McPherson "accurize" my modern Miroku BLR in 358 Win years ago. I know that people really like the older steel framed versions but really the newer ones with the aluminum receivers are stronger and lighter because the bolt locks into the steel barrel itself.

The BLR is unique as far as I know in a levergun because it already has a "through bolt" to hold the buttstock on from the factory and it does not require a conversion therefore.

Mic silicone bedded the buttstock but it otherwise didn't need anything. The forearm was relieved and silicone bedded and the barrel band was relieved and cold blued so it doesn't make contact with the barrel.

I have not shot mine in a while but with premium Lapua 308 brass sized to 358 Win, Varget for its consistency and a premium bullet this rifle has proven to be exceptionally accurate not just for me, but for my friends. When I saw them hitting a coke can off hand at 100 yards with iron sights I knew it was a very good rifle.

A trigger job is doable but a little harder with the floating trigger assembly. Mine is tied for the best trigger in my collection.

For purposes of cartridge COL the magazine is the limiting factor in mine and not the chamber otherwise I would seat the bullet out a wee bit further.

Pretty they are not, but they sure do shoot well.

-Tutt