Spring Kits and the Model 94 Win.
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Spring Kits and the Model 94 Win.
I would like to look into trying a beefier mainspring for my Big Bore 94, in an attempt to decrease locktime/increase accuracy and reduce occasional light strikes. Mine has been changed out to the non rebounding hammer. Is Wolf still the way to go or are there other, better options? Thanks in advance.
But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8
- Griff
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Re: Spring Kits and the Model 94 Win.
If you're still experiencing light hammer strikes, I'd look to see if the hammer is dragging on the side of the frame, or there is some interference of the spring's movement. Also check for free movement of the firing pin and extension in the locking lug. Increasing mainspring strength will also increase trigger tension.
Griff,
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SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
Re: Spring Kits and the Model 94 Win.
.
Befrore anyone starts changing springs to correct light FP strikes, I'd suggest inserting a small washer-cum-shim on the hammer strut, between the rear end of the MS & the strut's rear seat in the lower tang, to increase MS pressure - only OK if the MS' not fully compressed when the hammer's fully-cocked w/o the shim.
If the rifle has the forked strut common to rebounders, ensure (aka: shorten it) that the lower/rebound fork isn't impeding a full hammer strike - IOW, if the lower fork's too long, it sometimes starts the rebound action on the hammer before the FP has received the full force of it's blow.
(The upper fork drives the hammer to strike the FP, the lower fork rebounds the hammer to a position off the FP after the strike - like a teeter-totter)
.
Befrore anyone starts changing springs to correct light FP strikes, I'd suggest inserting a small washer-cum-shim on the hammer strut, between the rear end of the MS & the strut's rear seat in the lower tang, to increase MS pressure - only OK if the MS' not fully compressed when the hammer's fully-cocked w/o the shim.
If the rifle has the forked strut common to rebounders, ensure (aka: shorten it) that the lower/rebound fork isn't impeding a full hammer strike - IOW, if the lower fork's too long, it sometimes starts the rebound action on the hammer before the FP has received the full force of it's blow.
(The upper fork drives the hammer to strike the FP, the lower fork rebounds the hammer to a position off the FP after the strike - like a teeter-totter)
.
Re: Spring Kits and the Model 94 Win.
Thanks guys. This is the non rebounder. Light strikes are rare. Like many 94's the mainspring tension feels very light, as opposed to my Marlin. Just makes me wonder about locktime as I have to work harder to make the Win. Shoot well. I want this rifle as reliable as possible when we go after hogs again.
But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8
Re: Spring Kits and the Model 94 Win.
This weekend I will get it on the bench and familiarize myself with the parts. I have never fooled with triggers much except to take the whole group off the frame. The shim sounds like it is worth a try before I do anything else.
But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8
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Re: Spring Kits and the Model 94 Win.
You've probably got an inertial firing pin, doesn't touch the cartridge with the hammer down and the force of the hammer blow causes it to spring out against the primer for a quick punch.
If you do old dried lube and dirt on the pin may be the problem.
If you do old dried lube and dirt on the pin may be the problem.
Bill Ranks
I never learned from a man who agreed with me.
Robert A. Heinlein
I never learned from a man who agreed with me.
Robert A. Heinlein
Re: Spring Kits and the Model 94 Win.
Thanks Bill....will check that out.
But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8