Removing thread lock

[1886]

I recently picked up a rifle with a scope base mounted. I removed the base and there is some type of thread lock/adhesive on the receiver. Looks to be pink in color but not sure. I want to remove this substance without harming the finish. I tried heat but did not melt the stuff. Any thoughts? Thank you. 1886.

[tman]

Heat and muscle.

[Mescalero]

loc-tite is a formulated hydrocarbon that cures by displacing oxygen and when it has displaced it, then cures in the absense of air.
Drip acetone for a few days, then try it.

[Chuck 100 yd]

Most thread lockers will soften when heated to less that 400 deg. Use a propane torch to heat it up until a drop of water sizzles on it just like your mom did with her cloths iron. Immediately use your gunsmith quality screwdriver to loosen it. A tap on the end of the driver while holding torque on it often does the trick also. Heating to 400- deg. will have no effect on heat treated modern steel.
Acetone does work but be careful,it will damage most stock finishes. Remove the wood before trying either method.

[Lefty Dude]

I use a soldering Iron, put the tip on the screw or such and then they come out. Works every time.

[Chuck 100 yd]

Lefty Dude , Yes, I use that method also. Lots of home soldering Irons don`t put out enough heat to really work well especially if red Loc-tite was used. I sometimes heat a piece of rod red hot with my torch and touch it to the screw head. the heat transfers into the screw in just a few seconds. The main thing is to realize that the screw is not going to budge before you overpower the screwdriver and damage the screw head. Try another (next drastic) method before the screw head is ruined.

[vancelw]

I recently picked up a rifle with a scope base mounted. I removed the base and there is some type of thread lock/adhesive on the receiver. Looks to be pink in color but not sure. I want to remove this substance without harming the finish. I tried heat but did not melt the stuff. Any thoughts? Thank you. 1886.

You're not talking about the screws being hard to get out are you? You've already removed the base and have stuff stuck on the receiver itself.

If heat doesn't work, try the acetone or denatured alcohol first. Without knowing exactly what threadlocker was used it will simply be trial and error. Kroil or WD-40 might even work. Just be careful if you apply heat AFTER you tried solvents.

Please let us know if you're successful

[BrentD]

Ask a moderator - there is at least one thread on this topic running currently

I thought the OP was punning on casastahle's thread.

More seriously, I would use a new (no nicks) single-edged razor blade and slice off all of the stuff I possibly could at a very low angle before I tried the solvents. Thinning the material can only help the solvents eventually reach steel.

[OldWin]

I have used acetone as Mescalero said above. Put it on and let it set for a little bit. It will soften it right up and it will wipe off fairly easy.

[Pete44ru]

.

No heat, not much muscle - no damage.

Cut a wooden popsicle stick end off with your pocket knife at about a 45-degree angle and scrape the Loc-Tite "off".

You should find out that's it's turned brittle & will readily chip/scrape away. (the wood is softer than the metal/finish, but hard enough to do in the residue)

Only then clean any leftovers away with laq thinner or acetone, with nil damage to the bluing (If the rifle has a coating similar, like glorified paint, you're pretty much guaranteed damage to the finish).



.

[1886]

I recently picked up a rifle with a scope base mounted. I removed the base and there is some type of thread lock/adhesive on the receiver. Looks to be pink in color but not sure. I want to remove this substance without harming the finish. I tried heat but did not melt the stuff. Any thoughts? Thank you. 1886.

You're not talking about the screws being hard to get out are you? You've already removed the base and have stuff stuck on the receiver itself.

If heat doesn't work, try the acetone or denatured alcohol first. Without knowing exactly what threadlocker was used it will simply be trial and error. Kroil or WD-40 might even work. Just be careful if you apply heat AFTER you tried solvents.

Please let us know if you're successful

Base and screws have been removed. They were tight but not excessively so. I am trying to remove a little bit of "spill over" of the adhesive left on top of the receiver. Thanks. 1886.

[Chuck 100 yd]

Sorry, I miss read and assumed the screws were stuck. YES, what those guys said. Scrape all you can with a non marring tool first.
I have a Marlin with a bead blasted receiver top that someone got screw locker on and have never been able to completely remove even with acetone.
Good luck!

[cshold]

Ask a moderator - there is at least one thread on this topic running currently

I thought the OP was punning on casastahle's thread.

More seriously, I would use a new (no nicks) single-edged razor blade and slice off all of the stuff I possibly could at a very low angle before I tried the solvents. Thinning the material can only help the solvents eventually reach steel.

good one

[1886]

Some mineral spirits and very fine steel wool did the trick. Thank you, all. 1886.

[vancelw]

Good!

It's funny how you have to experiment sometimes.
I was trying to remove some adhesive from the dash of my truck not long ago. I tried denatured alcohol which is usually one of the most forgiving solvents. The adhesive was stubborn and after a little elbow grease the finish started spotting off
Tried WD-40 and the adhesive wiped off like warm butter Then a little soapy water cleaned the WD-40 off.

[piller]

I don't know what is in WD-40, but it softens road tar and asphalt. I haven't used it on threadlocker, but It is worth a try if I ever have to remove some that acetone will not get. Thanks for the idea vancelw.

[cshold]

I think I remember reading WD-40 is fish oil based.

[stretch]

I remember as a kid, my dad brought home some methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) to
remove scotch tape marks from the walls of our den before painting.

It worked GREAT!!

One could also try a little bit of carb cleaner or brake cleaner.

NOTE: DO NOT try a torch after using brake cleaner! The fumes
created are quite toxic and can do real damage to the nervous system
in a big hurry!!

-Stretch

[Lassiter]

I use a soldering Iron, put the tip on the screw or such and then they come out. Works every time.

+1

[BrentD]

I use a soldering Iron, put the tip on the screw or such and then they come out. Works every time.

+1

What screw?

[Pete44ru]

I use a soldering Iron, put the tip on the screw or such and then they come out. Works every time.

+1

What screw?

Why, the screw that holds the loctite on, silly...............


.

[pwl44m]

My Win 94 that I had rebored had a scope on it which I removed. The scope base was for a round barrel and the 94 has an Octagon barrel. It had some type of rubbery substance on it used for bedding the mount. It came off pretty easy using a razor blade. Come to think of it, it didn't stick to the scope base at all.
Perry

[Chuck 100 yd]

WD-40 is over 95% Kerosene. This came from one of it`s inventors over on Benchrest Central.