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Since the miracle adhesive know as JB Weld ([genuflect] all hail JB Weld [/genuflect]) has been discussed lately, I have a couple of questions.
It's been suggested to me before to use Acra-Glas or JB Weld as a way to temporarily affix scope bases. What I've never asked is, once you decide to remove the base how do you get the JB Weld off the mounting point? I've always heard a sharp shock or heat will separate the mount from the mounting point, but I've never heard how you clean it up afterwards or if there's any finish damage done.
I have two Martinis (.357 Cadet and .22 12/15) that need something like this but I have held off until I remembered to ask what to do once it was time for the JB Weld to go away.
Thanks!
If these walls could talk, I'd listen to the floor.
Good question. I never tried to get it off of something Hmmm. . . I'm not sure I'd put it on anything I thought I might not always want it on, unless I could drill, sand, or hammer it.
"Make yourself an honest man, and then you may be sure that there is one less scoundrel in the world." - Thomas Carlyle
I've never personally used the product [but it does sound like it works very well], but would imagine that some kind of liquid would be involved in its removal, like with super glue.
"The beauty of the second amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it." - Thomas Jefferson
"I know not what course other men may take, but as for me, Give me Liberty or Give me Death!" - Patrick Henry
I have used various epoxies to cement tang sights on to the tang when only using 1 screw. When I go to change/remove it I just take off the stock bolt and a little tap will knock the sight base off.
Thens there's the residue on the metal parts to which a apply a bit of heat from a propane torch----briefly---------A little steel wool and some Hoppe's and she's good-to-go for the next application.
Keep in mind I'll do this to a 90% 1886 or any other nice Winchester with no worry about the finish. Works for me. -----------Sixgun
How 'bout a little experimentation? Go ahead a glue up some junk parts and test her out yo self. (ebonics)-----------
I have uses Brownells Steel Bed on actions to mate the scope, site, base to the action. I have used a release agent on the action before applying the goop. Bedding material sticks to the base and not to the action.
Have used Brownells release agent and carnuba wax, both have performed real good. Might work with JB Weld also?
I did use screws though to affix the base.
Just a thought.
John
Gettin old ain't for sissies!
There just has to be dogs in heaven !
vancelw wrote:Good question. I never tried to get it off of something Hmmm. . . I'm not sure I'd put it on anything I thought I might not always want it on, unless I could drill, sand, or hammer it.
+1.
Griff,
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession! AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
My years spent in gunsmithing (retired from that business in '98) I mainly worked on pistols. But I was trained by old school smiths from the 40's and 50's and thus never used an epoxy on anything. I silver soldered, welded, or used other means to join metals. I once attempted to use JB Weld on a rib for a NM Ruger BH. That was a disaster! Took hours of cleaning to get that gunk off the barrel and sight base. Then I silver soldered it in place and the matter was resolved. Being old school myself, I have a thing about trying to glue metal to metal....It just sounds a bit out of place to me. The mess that was made with the rib on the Ruger turned me off from any epoxy on firearms forever....
Any time I need to remove remnants of JB or Acraglass from a gun, I get out my copper scraper -- made from a piece of copper tubing flattened on one end -- and have at it. No damage to the finish. Works for removing remnants of gaskets from cylinder heads and engine blocks, too.