1892- Sling Stud on forearm or nosecap?

[awpk03s]

Anyone had any success putting a sling stud on the end cap it directly into the forearm? I really don't want a barrel band mount....

[hondo1892]

I put one on my Marlin 336 barrel band. I had to modify the stud a little then drilled and tapped the barrel band. I was alittle concerned it may not hold but its been there for about twenty years now. So those little threads are stronger than I thought.

[Rusty]

I put one on the nose cap of an 1894C about 25 years ago. I got rid of the gun so I don't know how it held up. It was sturdy at the time.

[J Miller]

The wood forearm itself would not be strong enough to hold the stud.

One of our members repaired the stock and forearm of an old Winchester 1886 some time back. Someone in the past had mounted a sling stud in the forearm and it ripped out making a pretty bad hole. I forget who did this or I'd post a link to the "fix it" thread.

I've not done either the barrel band or forearm cap, but if I ever do I'd not only D&T the band / cap but I'd also have it silver soldered on. Last thing I'd want is for it to come loose out in the boonies.

Joe

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

When I picked up this nice old saddle ring carbine last year somebody had added a sling swivel that mounts to the magazine tube. They also welded one onto the barrel band, and did a crappy job. For the price I paid for it, I am just going to leave the crappy weld job alone.

Perhaps you could find a similar sling swivel attachment someplace.

[J Miller]

From what I understand the Marlin barrel band with sling stud will fit a Win 94 or 92 if you use their screw. Haven't tried it yet, but somebody here did it.
Darn CRS, makes me feel like an idiot when I can't remember names.

Joe

[AJMD429]

Anyone had any success putting a sling stud on the end cap it directly into the forearm?

I think some folks missed the second part of your question...

I really don't want a barrel band mount....

I've drilled and tapped both 'bands' and 'caps' for the UncleMike swivel base that has I think 10-32 threads. You can get several types of threaded swivel bases, but you want the ones threaded right up to the base, with no unthreaded portion, or you'll have to use a filler like the white washers they supply or some other washer. Brownells and MidwayUSA both have the proper swivel bases if you look around.

For the caps, you have plenty of room, but on the bands, you need to file the inside of the screw down or it sticks through the band and hits the wood. I superglue those in addition to just the threads; for the caps I don't bother.

Don't forget the magazine-tube option, but you have to snoop around a bit to get the right sizes; instead of sensibly cataloguing them by diameter, they are 'listed' in most places according to what guns they fit, and include barrels, shotguns, magazine tubes, etc.

I don't have it handy, but I did make a table that shows all the UncleMikes bases for magazine tubes and what diameters they fit. PM me if you need it.

[KCSO]

I had one come in with the stud in the fore arm. Drilled rith through the wood and the mag tube abd screwed it in! It held but did cut down on the mag capacity.

[Rusty]

INTO THE MAG TUBE??? Now that's a Bubba job

[awpk03s]

Thanks for the comments. I should have noted, my rifle is a 24" stainless model, and my main aversion to using magazine tube mount is the black/stainless contrast. The robustness of it is also a concern, but mainly I want it to look good also.
I may try to drill and tap the endcap and then either solder or weld the connection on the inside to try and provide extra protection to keep it in place....?

[Malamute]

I drilled and tapped the fore end cap on my 1886 Browning rifle. I never cared for the looks of the magazine tube mounts, I guess I'm more of a traditionalist, and felt the tube mounts looked like an afterthought.

When drilling the cap, (I had a gunsmith do it), it does need a flat spot to give it a good stable contact. We set it up square with the rear edge of the cap so the stud sits square with the barrel. The flat will need to be adjusted to get the stud to index in the correct orientation.

If you (or your gunsmith) are decent with solder, the stud can be soldered in place after threading and it will be permanent. When done correctly, the solder won't show, or only a tiny faint line around the very base of the stud.

I didnt solder the 86, and its a pretty heavy rifle. It's been fine for 15 or so years. The fore end caps give you some metal to get a few threads in. I used to tap the carbine fore end bands, but it only gave a thread or two. I went to drilling through and inletting a nut in the wood under the band.

[twobit]

Driftwood wrote:

For the price I paid for it, I am just going to leave the crappy weld job alone.

It would be a simple and realtively cheap fix to get a replacement ring and just switch them out.
They are easy to find.

awpk03s wrote:

Anyone had any success putting a sling stud on the end cap it directly into the forearm? I really don't want a barrel band mount....

If this is an original Winchester rifle that has not been altered you may want to think long about doing this. Putting a hole in the stock and the end cap will definitely cause a detraction in the potential value of the rifle. If you ever want/need to sell the rifle someday it will hurt.

On a slightly different note can you please read the following posts and add your rifle, if a Winchester, into the research?
I am now up to 1850 rifles and the work is going well.
http://www.levergunscommunity.com/viewt ... ey#p343093
http://www.winchestercollector.org/foru ... php?t=3460

Michael

[awpk03s]

Thanks... its a Rossi 1892 Stainless 24" Octagon barrel 45 Colt rifle. It's special to me, but not in terms of sale value...

[geobru]

The wood forearm itself would not be strong enough to hold the stud.

One of our members repaired the stock and forearm of an old Winchester 1886 some time back. Someone in the past had mounted a sling stud in the forearm and it ripped out making a pretty bad hole. I forget who did this or I'd post a link to the "fix it" thread.
Joe

This is the address to the repair thread.
http://www.levergunscommunity.com/viewt ... 92#p191392

Not that you need to repair yours, but why you shouldn't try to put a sling stud directly into the wood.

[J Miller]

geobru,
Thanks for posting that link. I bookmarked it this time.

I still think that's one heck of a neat repair.

Joe

[geobru]

geobru,
Thanks for posting that link. I bookmarked it this time.

I still think that's one heck of a neat repair.

Joe

Thanks Joe. Looking back now, I am really glad I did it, but it was a real gut churner to make the first cut!

Here is another example of what can happen when a sling stud is installed in the wood. This was on a 1951 Winchester 94. I repaired it the same way as I did the 86, inlaying a strip of walnut from behind the hole to the drop for the barrel band.

[pokey]

Howdy

When I picked up this nice old saddle ring carbine last year somebody had added a sling swivel that mounts to the magazine tube. They also welded one onto the barrel band, and did a crappy job. For the price I paid for it, I am just going to leave the crappy weld job alone.

Perhaps you could find a similar sling swivel attachment someplace.

i have a couple of old bands off of '94s that should fit, if you want/need one let me know
where to ship it to.

[J Miller]

Thanks for the comments. I should have noted, my rifle is a 24" stainless model, and my main aversion to using magazine tube mount is the black/stainless contrast. The robustness of it is also a concern, but mainly I want it to look good also.
I may try to drill and tap the endcap and then either solder or weld the connection on the inside to try and provide extra protection to keep it in place....?

awpk,

This is just a thought from left field. If the barrel band swivel mounts are aluminum, you can chemically remove the black anodizing and polish them. I did that on a couple Ruger SA grip frames.

Like I said, just a thought as I haven't messed with the mounts in 30 years.

Joe

[awpk03s]

Well, I took the plunge on this project earlier this week. I removed the end cap and set it up in a drill press, and drilled through the stainless, cleaned up the hole with emery cloth and a file, and then hand threaded the hole to match my machine screw sling stud. I finished it up with a lot of blue Loc-tite. It is very secure, there are a full 4-5 threads of engagement, and as I said, it's very secure. I now am able to mount my old faithful leather sling in style and comfort.

I will be sure to take some pics of the finished result.