ot-BP revolver nipple wrench

[model55]

Was wondering if anyone has any recommendations.Apparently I didn't clean my 1851 as well as I thought now I have stripped two nipple wrenches trying to clean up.The nipples are soaking in kroil right now.The wrenches just round off and appear to be pot metal at best-think I could Dremel up something better.

[Mossyoak1957]

Was wondering if anyone has any recommendations.Apparently I didn't clean my 1851 as well as I thought now I have stripped two nipple wrenches trying to clean up.The nipples are soaking in kroil right now.The wrenches just round off and appear to be pot metal at best-think I could Dremel up something better.

I had bought a Stainless Ruger Old Army from a guy and had the same problem,I soaked the cylinder for a week and even sent to ruger and for a new wrench.Still couldn't get them out! Then took it to my gun smith and he couldn't get them out,I was there when he tried,he said he would have to drill them out and re-tap the threads.
I called Ruger and they said they could fit it with a new cylinder...I sold the gun

[perry owens]

As a last resort I have used screw extractors. They look like a tapered screw with a left-hand thread and usually come in a kit of several sizes. They are hard and brittle and should be turned with a T-type tap wrench to avoid breakage. When I used to shoot 1858 Remingtons I turned my own wrenches from tool steel rod but even then there was not enough meat in the end to stop them twisting off on stuck nipples. The Old Army nipples with six flats are a better system but even then the only sure way is to remove them at each cleaning and grease the threads before replacement,
BTW, the best penetrating oil I have found is a home-made mix of 50/50 acetone and automatic transmission fluid.
Perry Owens

[Old Ironsights]

Was wondering if anyone has any recommendations.Apparently I didn't clean my 1851 as well as I thought now I have stripped two nipple wrenches trying to clean up.The nipples are soaking in kroil right now.The wrenches just round off and appear to be pot metal at best-think I could Dremel up something better.

I had bought a Stainless Ruger Old Army from a guy and had the same problem,I soaked the cylinder for a week and even sent to ruger and for a new wrench.Still couldn't get them out! Then took it to my gun smith and he couldn't get them out,I was there when he tried,he said he would have to drill them out and re-tap the threads.
I called Ruger and they said they could fit it with a new cylinder...I sold the gun

ARRRGGHHHH!!!

PLEASE... anyone with the same issue who wants to part with a Stainles ROA call me.... I'll be more than happy to take it off your hands...

[Griff]

OI, don't beat your head against the wall. Ruger OAs, especially in stainless, are for those guys that don't LIKE to shoot BP!

Prevention by the ounce is worth every bit of a ton of repairs. A dab of just about any grease (but I believe Remington's "Bore Butter" is best), on the threads of each nipple before it's installed with make removing it a breeze after shooting.

Now, don't go thinking that you don't have to remove them when you clean the rest of the gun... frankly in a days shooting that grease'll get cooked off and leave you with no protection. You clean with whatever solution you like, if you leave the nipples in, you're going to end up fighting to get them out.

Dixie Gun Works has a very nice, robust (using the political buzzword of the week according to CNN) nipple wrench for revolvers: NT0501 Nipple Wrench - T style Large Revolver.

Note their sales pitch on this nipple wrench:

We believe these to be the best nipple wrenches available. We have a minimum of breakage with this brand. Anyone can break a nipple wrench by exerting heavy force on the nipple and we cannot guarantee this wrench when this happens.

Each time I get thru there I buy a couple of replacements. I don't believe there's a nipple wrench made (that will fit in the revolver's recess) that won't break, sooner, or later! And over the past 34 years I've played with muzzleloaders, I've broken my fair share!

[Old Ironsights]

I just like the Rugers because they are stronger than the Repros. And I like Stainless because I like Stainless.

[Griff]

I just like the Rugers because they are stronger than the Repros. And I like Stainless because I like Stainless.

You know... I just had to tease ya a little bit!

[kimwcook]

OI, I'd get a good wrench life Griff said. Then I'd cycle the cylinder through a few heat and cooling cycles. I'd use a hair dryer I have around for leather work or anything I need some heat, but not enough to burn leather, oil, solvent, etc...Keeping the cylinder nipples soaked in your kroil. Then try your wrench. I'd think they'd come loose.

[Old Ironsights]

I just like the Rugers because they are stronger than the Repros. And I like Stainless because I like Stainless.

You know... I just had to tease ya a little bit!

I've thought about getting one of the Repros in Stainless, but I just can't get my head around the strength issue. That and IIRC they use a smaller bullet than the ROA's .452. I'm sure they're fine, but still...

[Griff]

I readily admit the ROA is a far better gun. And bein' available in a 5" barrel just makes sense for a belt gun. But, I tease everyone with 'em, that they really don't like shootin' BP, which in my shallow, closed, sealed and forever tarnished mind, includes so much more than just loadin' and shootin'. It's an entire ambiance that one doesn't get with the Ruger and it's coil mainspring and healthy frame size, being that it's almost indestructible; at least I don't.

[model55]

Well with grinding and file work I made the worst of the wrenches work.A little love tap with a hammer helped as well , no rust to speak of except on two nipples.I'm going to grease the nipple seats on the cylinder too just for good measure.I'm going to look at that Wrench from Dixie,cannot imagine an old timer having this problem.

[Ray Newman]

When done cleaning my ROA, I put RIG (or some other grease) on the nipple threads, put the nipples in a plastic baggie, then tie the baggie to the trigger guard. I also apply RIG to the nipple threads on the cylinder.

Been doing this for years with the ROA and other percusssion firearms and 'nevva' had a problem with a rusted nipple.

[awp101]

I had bought a Stainless Ruger Old Army from a guy and had the same problem,I soaked the cylinder for a week and even sent to ruger and for a new wrench.Still couldn't get them out! Then took it to my gun smith and he couldn't get them out,I was there when he tried,he said he would have to drill them out and re-tap the threads.
I called Ruger and they said they could fit it with a new cylinder...I sold the gun

ARRRGGHHHH!!!

PLEASE... anyone with the same issue who wants to part with a Stainles ROA call me.... I'll be more than happy to take it off your hands...

Second in line!

[Griff]

Well with grinding and file work I made the worst of the wrenches work.A little love tap with a hammer helped as well , no rust to speak of except on two nipples.I'm going to grease the nipple seats on the cylinder too just for good measure.I'm going to look at that Wrench from Dixie,cannot imagine an old timer having this problem.

Glad to hear it! And I'm sure that some old timer's did have this problem. And they probably had to use the same methods we do to remedy the situation. Tho' I imagine if they'd had to go the heat route, they had a real problem with control!!! "Hey pardner, whatcha doin' with your revolver cylinder in the campfire?"

[Ben_Rumson]

I Dremeled (stacked a couple 3 cut off disks) and filed a slot in a 5/16 Allen wrench to remove frozen nipples on my SS 1858 Remington..

[KCSO]

Take a screwdriver insert and cut off the shank, then slot with a diamond tool on the dremel. Works much better and you have a GOOD handle to boot. I always make my own.

[Old Ironsights]

This is why I REALLY like the nipples on the NAA Companion Minis. They have a standard Hex for the nipple ID, so all you need to have is a hex key to remove them.

[kimwcook]

Now I'm going to have to check the nipples in my ROA.

[Nate Kiowa Jones]

Over the years I'd had several guns come through here that had stuck nipples. I've tried several different tools but ended up making one that has never failed to remove even chewed up nipples (if it's not too bad).
All you need is a cheap 1/4 drive socket cut to fit over the nipple, an adapter to 1/4 hex and a 1/4 hex impact driver.

Clamp the cylinder in a padded vise. Give it a wack and they come right out.






This is the best 6 bucks I've ever spent.
7 Piece Reversible Impact Driver Set

[Ysabel Kid]

I wonder why they make nipple wrenches out of such cheap metal to begin with?

[Griff]

I wonder why they make nipple wrenches out of such cheap metal to begin with?

it's called "planned obsolescence." Or if you like, "forced conspicuous consumption!"

[Ysabel Kid]

I wonder why they make nipple wrenches out of such cheap metal to begin with?

it's called "planned obsolescence." Or if you like, "forced conspicuous consumption!"

[Hobie]

Never had a nipple wrench fail. Buffalo Arms also carries them. The screwdriver trick will work. And finally, WHAT concern with strength in the repros? Are you shooting Bullseye?

[Old Ironsights]

Never had a nipple wrench fail. Buffalo Arms also carries them. The screwdriver trick will work. And finally, WHAT concern with strength in the repros? Are you shooting Bullseye?

No, but I do like the .45 Colt Cylinders... and I DO have a few ROA loads using the 200gr REAL that are ballisticly superior to .45 Colt "Cowboy" loads...

[Hobie]

Never had a nipple wrench fail. Buffalo Arms also carries them. The screwdriver trick will work. And finally, WHAT concern with strength in the repros? Are you shooting Bullseye?

No, but I do like the .45 Colt Cylinders... and I DO have a few ROA loads using the 200gr REAL that are ballistically superior to .45 Colt "Cowboy" loads...

I see. I think I now remember you mentioning that before. You do know why I mentioned Bullseye, don't you?

[Old Ironsights]

Never had a nipple wrench fail. Buffalo Arms also carries them. The screwdriver trick will work. And finally, WHAT concern with strength in the repros? Are you shooting Bullseye?

No, but I do like the .45 Colt Cylinders... and I DO have a few ROA loads using the 200gr REAL that are ballistically superior to .45 Colt "Cowboy" loads...

I see. I think I now remember you mentioning that before. You do know why I mentioned Bullseye, don't you?

Other than it's a good way to get a C&B gun to KaBoom, no...

[Glenn]

Don't look now, but Ruger used to proof their Old Army with a chamber full of bullseye (inside info).

The ROA takes .457 RBs, which also work perfectly in the replicas, despite the instrictions which state (variously) .451" or .454". You scrape a little ring of lead off the ball (throw it back in the pot) and end up with a straight driving band on the ball. They shoot great.
Glenn

[Hankster]

We don't clean and oil our guns???? BP ESPECIALLY!!!! Black Powder is Hygroscopic... it ATTRACTS water from the air, SPEEDING up the rusting process!!! Even if you don't have time to give em a PROPER cleaning after shooting, pull the nipples, soak em with oil, until you CAN!

[M. M. Wright]

I put Caterpillar brand anti-seize on my threads. I know it will stand up to a LOT of heat. There are other brands of anti-seize compound that will do the job better than any grease. You can buy some at any auto supply store. Tell them it's for the head studs on a diesel engine.

M. M.

[awp101]

Don't look now, but Ruger used to proof their Old Army with a chamber full of bullseye (inside info).

[model55]

Cleaned them just not well enough,actually soaking the nipples in oil sounds like a good idea after a hot soap/windex bath.I went back and used the anti seize grease too.Does any one use Treso nipples in their revolvers-I am thinking of giving them a try along with Remington NO 10 caps.

[Nate Kiowa Jones]

Cleaned them just not well enough,actually soaking the nipples in oil sounds like a good idea after a hot soap/windex bath.I went back and used the anti seize grease too.Does any one use Treaso nipples in their revolvers-I am thinking of giving them a try along with Remington NO 10 caps.

Absolutely,
The Treso don't wash out like the stock nipples. Washed out as in flash hole enlarging. This helps prevent the caps from blowing off so they allow for a lighter hammer spring, and they may even prevent damage to the internals of the action. Check out this post;

OT: Cylinder Hand Engagement

I use them in all my CAS revolvers. I also have 10 extra cylinders that can be pre-loaded, all have treso's.

[model55]

Wow!That's a good looking bunch!Kicking myself for getting rid of a stainless one years ago. Is there any point in refacing the hammer nose to match the nipples-looks like the hammer only strikes at the top of the nipples on 1858s?