Has anyone here ever formed .218 Bee brass using .25-20 or .32-20 cases?
According to a couple of different manuals that I have you can use either one for a parent case.
If you have made this conversion, did you have to use any intermediate forming dies, anneal the case necks, etc?
Any information would be appreciated.
Dave
Forming brass for .218 Bee
Forum rules
Welcome to the Leverguns.Com General Discussions Forum. This is a high-class place so act respectable. We discuss most anything here other than politics... politely.
Please post political post in the new Politics forum.
Welcome to the Leverguns.Com General Discussions Forum. This is a high-class place so act respectable. We discuss most anything here other than politics... politely.
Please post political post in the new Politics forum.
I haven't done that, but I have formed .17 Ackley Bee brass from .218 Bee Brass... which leads to my real point/question... why not just buy ,218 bee brass?
Yes, .218 Bee brass is about $10 more per hundred than 32-20 and 25-20, but I think that would be $10 well spent to avoid the extra work.
Yes, .218 Bee brass is about $10 more per hundred than 32-20 and 25-20, but I think that would be $10 well spent to avoid the extra work.
Slow is just slow.
Good question.cas wrote: why not just buy ,218 bee brass?
I have purchased 300 rounds of .218 Bee brass along with 150 loaded rounds. That was all that I could afford right now to get me started.
But when I was in one of the gunshops that I was scouring for ammo (yes, I know you can find it online too) I ran across a couple of bags of .32-20 and .25-20 brass in those "bargain bins" that most gun shops have.
When I went to the gun show last weekend I saw odd lots of used .32-30 brass on a couple of tables. I didn't see any .218 Bee brass.
If I knew it was fairly easy to form .218 Bee out of .32-20, I'd snag the little bargain bags of brass when I found them around. When you pick up a little here and a little there, pretty soon you have a lot.
Dave
Uniformity----you gotta have uniformity with an accurate, small capacity, high pressure cartridge like the 218. You have to keep the brass to one brand and preferably to one lot. Because the 218 is so small, even very small deviations in case capacity will result in wide variations in pressure which results in inaccuracy and possible dangerous head separations, as most 218 Bee's are of a rear lock up design.
32-20's will have a thicker end result neck than 25-20's and both will be thicker than factory 218. So, it don't really matter what you use, just keep 'em all the same.-----------Sixgun
32-20's will have a thicker end result neck than 25-20's and both will be thicker than factory 218. So, it don't really matter what you use, just keep 'em all the same.-----------Sixgun
This is Boring & Mindless……Wasted Energy
Thank you very much. I wanted to make sure that I didn't need to use an intermediate forming die or anything, and what pitfalls to watch out for. Your advice will be very helpful and it's much appreciated.
By the way, it's going to be used in a Browning Model 65 repro. The reloads will be used for plinkling (at least to start) and the factory stuff for varmints on a friend's farm.
Dave
By the way, it's going to be used in a Browning Model 65 repro. The reloads will be used for plinkling (at least to start) and the factory stuff for varmints on a friend's farm.
Dave