Price for Uberti '73 Cattleman, .357, 5.5" Barrel? - Update

[COSteve]

Need some help gents. I'm lookin' over a 1986 '73 Uberti Cattleman .357, 5.5" barrel with brass frame that seller says is excellent shape except for the usual thin spots from holster wear.

Seller claims he bought it new in 1986 and that he's got only a few rounds (15 - 20 so I'm figuring 200) through it and had it for his property when he lived in Durango, CO. He says he carried it for awhile but stopped in the early '90s and put it up. It was part of his 47 gun collection he's selling off because he retired and is moving back to FL to be with his grand kids.

He's a short drive up into the mountains from me and I'm thinking of going to take a look at it. What say you fine gents on a decent selling price for this? From the picture, it doesn't look like the cylinder has been spun that much as I can't see a drag mark. Suggestions of what to look for as far as issues, extra wear, etc. would be greatly appreciated and are needed!

UPDATE the 21st:

Thanks for everyone's help.

I went to see the pistol this morning and it wasn't what I wanted being a "D cam" version (no two position base pin safety and a small screw head in the 'valley' of the hammer). In addition, it looked much rougher than his description and overall I wasn't interested.

Oh well, I wouldn't have known enough to determine that it wasn't for me without the excellent support and advice I received from you all here. I thank you and will check out the upcoming Tanner Gun Show this 1st and 2nd to see what I can find there.

Armed with the knowledge I have now I'll have a much better idea of what I'm considering.

Again, thanks to all.

[Nate Kiowa Jones]

If that is an 1986 DOM Uberti ask if it's the two position base pin safety or if it is the earlier "D" cam style gun. The two position safety is more desirable over the "D" cam. The "D" cam guns are more likely to go out of time. This was because the bolt fingers were sharply pointed where they rode over the cams and because the cam wasn't rounded like the original colt it was "D" shaped and the sharp bolt finger tends to wear it much faster than normal.

[Griff]

Nate,
Is that two position safety with a very small lever on the base pin on the front of the cylinder? Where turning the base pin engages an extension on the back of the base pin with an un-notched portion on the front of the hammer... like the earlier Jager Dakotas EMF imported?

Steve,
That picture seems to show some cylinder wear near the front of the bolt ramp; sometimes a picture will show something that the naked eye can't see. But... on the plus side, I don't find that a little wear from an early rising bolt is as bad as a late rising bolt. As to value... I'd probably say somewhere in the range of 75% of the cost of a new one if in 90% + condition; knocking it down if the condition is less than that.

[bogus bill]

Just a rough quick guess of $300. I have this DAKOTA that looks just like it that I almost forgot about. I belive the dakota was san marcos though. Used to be San Marcus or Uberta made them for importers like cimmeron, EMF etc. Kind of gets confuseing.

[COSteve]

If that is an 1986 DOM Uberti ask if it's the two position base pin safety or if it is the earlier "D" cam style gun. The two position safety is more desirable over the "D" cam. The "D" cam guns are more likely to go out of time. This was because the bolt fingers were sharply pointed where they rode over the cams and because the cam wasn't rounded like the original colt it was "D" shaped and the sharp bolt finger tends to wear it much faster than normal.

Thanks Steve. How could I tell by looking if it is a two position or "D" cam? Will each have 2 clicks when cocking?

[Griff]

Bill,

Nate probably knows better than I, but, IIRC, "Dakota" was a tradename used by EMF (& some others) for a variety of six-guns from several arms makers, including, Armi-San Marco, Jager & Uberti. Probably a couple of other makers as well... during the years EMF marketed the "Dakota" several changes were made. Similar to their "Hartford Model", which I know has been made by Armi-San Marco and Uberti.

[bogus bill]

Griff, on the dakota that I posted, the first and only time I took it out and shot it the ejector rod flew off! This was many years ago, I sent it back and they fixed it, and I dont belive I shot it since. I own a uberti General George Patton comemrative, and a cimmeron thunderer. Also 4 colt single actions. Some I shoot lightly, and some not at all. I like .44 special the best. Have a 1906 colt converted to .44 special, and a 3rd gen .44 spec. I also have a old .32-20 and a 3rd gen .45colt. I went out once with the 45 colt alongside a s&w 25-5 I also own. Same loads in each. The fired cases dropped right out of the smith easily. In the colt same ammo was bulged cases and had to pound them out! Huge chambers. I sent back the gun to colt, told them the sights were off, chambers too big, and would they give me a new clyinder with the removeable bushing. Well, they did do all that with no charge. New and old clyinders both same number as gun etc. Now do to being laid up and other things I must admit I havent tried out the new clyinder yet. HOWEVER, I fail to see that the new clyinder is any smaller! I have dropped various size bullets through both clyinders and fail to see any differance. I dont have a venior or mike and wouldnt know how to use one if I did. I dont belive balistic wise there is much differance between the special and the 45 colt, yet I feel slightly better with the extra meat on the .44 specials. Of all people, why is it that colt cant get it right on chamber size? I probley will be looking for some .454 bullets. I have to start working with it. If the picture comes through, that is a worked over remington new model army. I have several other single actions that isnt in the group.

[Nate Kiowa Jones]

If that is an 1986 DOM Uberti ask if it's the two position base pin safety or if it is the earlier "D" cam style gun. The two position safety is more desirable over the "D" cam. The "D" cam guns are more likely to go out of time. This was because the bolt fingers were sharply pointed where they rode over the cams and because the cam wasn't rounded like the original colt it was "D" shaped and the sharp bolt finger tends to wear it much faster than normal.

Thanks Steve. How could I tell by looking if it is a two position or "D" cam? Will each have 2 clicks when cocking?

steve,
Do you see how the base pin appears to be setting about a 1/4" out from the frame on Bills dakota? That gun has the 2 postion base pin safety. If you pust the latch button and push the base pin all the way in, it actually protrudes into the hammer well enough to prevent the hammer from falling all the way down.

The "D" cam guns didn't have this. Another tell on the "D" cam is the tiny set-screw in the top of the hammer between the hammer face and spur.

Bill, that is the Dakota made by Uberti. The early ASM's and Jager made Dakota's had the two position base pins, the Jagers like Griff mentioned you turned instead of pushed in.

[Nate Kiowa Jones]

Nate,
Is that two position safety with a very small lever on the base pin on the front of the cylinder? Where turning the base pin engages an extension on the back of the base pin with an un-notched portion on the front of the hammer... like the earlier Jager Dakotas EMF imported?

Steve,
That picture seems to show some cylinder wear near the front of the bolt ramp; sometimes a picture will show something that the naked eye can't see. But... on the plus side, I don't find that a little wear from an early rising bolt is as bad as a late rising bolt. As to value... I'd probably say somewhere in the range of 75% of the cost of a new one if in 90% + condition; knocking it down if the condition is less than that.

It kinda bugs me because it's a possible sign of cam wear. As for late or over-rotating some folks will tell you, you need a heavier hand springs to slow the cylinder down to cure over-rotating. I don't feel that is nessassary if the bolt/cylinder notch is properly fitted. I have two ASM that have hand spring that are so light they feel like free spin rugers.

Late rising is different. The fix there is to adjust the second step on the hand (lower it) to slow the cylinder down in relationship to the bolt coming up.

[COSteve]

I understand! Thanks Nate.

[J Miller]

Steve,

Here is a little site with proof marks and date codes to help you verify the date of manufacture:

https://store.bluebookinc.com/Info/PDF/ ... fmarks.pdf

Should be a two letter date code in a box. Probably somewhere on the right side under the cylinder opening.

Joe