OT: Need help with WATER damaged Rugar 44 blackhawk
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OT: Need help with WATER damaged Rugar 44 blackhawk
I have a rugar 44 mag Super Blackhawk that was in a fire. it was damaged by WATER, not heat. The barrel had to be re-machined. I want to re-install the barrel. Does anyone know what the gap should be between the barrel and the cylinder? Any help would be appreciated.
Last edited by helmtoad on Thu Apr 23, 2009 12:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: OT: Need help with Rugar 44 blackhawk reconstruction
Have no idea what a "thermocup" is, but if you're referring to the barrel/cylinder gap from factory (as new) they can range from .003"-.006" and greater.
I'd set the barrel as tight as possible while still maintaining proper sight alignment.
I'd set the barrel as tight as possible while still maintaining proper sight alignment.
...and I don't think he even knows it...Walks around with a half-assed grin...If he feels fear, he don't show it. Just rides into hell and back again.
Re: OT: Need help with Rugar 44 blackhawk reconstruction
I wouldn't fire, and certainly not refit/rebarrel ANY .44 Mag revolver that's been in a fire - since most likely the heat-treating's gone to pot, resulting in a potential hand grenade.
In good conciousness, I can't "aid & abet" it, either.
It's just not worth it - no matter what the burnt gun cost.
.
In good conciousness, I can't "aid & abet" it, either.
It's just not worth it - no matter what the burnt gun cost.
.
- J Miller
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Re: OT: Need help with Rugar 44 blackhawk reconstruction
I agree with Pete. Don't risk your life on it. I will add one thing though, if you believe the gun is not totaled then either take it to a qualified gunsmith or send it back to Ruger for a good examination.Pete44ru wrote:I wouldn't fire, and certainly not refit/rebarrel ANY .44 Mag revolver that's been in a fire - since most likely the heat-treating's gone to pot, resulting in a potential hand grenade.
In good conciousness, I can't "aid & abet" it, either.
It's just not worth it - no matter what the burnt gun cost.
.
Joe
***Be sneaky, get closer, bust the cap on him when you can put the ball where it counts
.***

Re: OT: Need help with WATER damaged Rugar 44 blackhawk
I say send it to Ruger. They will either fix it (probably) or replace it.
Re: OT: Need help with WATER damaged Rugar 44 blackhawk
If the stocks weren't scorched it likely wasn't heated enough to damage any heat treatment. On the other hand, water poured on a fire will steam and water will soak everything and that often causes more damage than the fire. I don't understand the part about "re-machined" but as stated I'd install to a .003-.005" gap with the front sight straight up and down.
Sincerely,
Hobie
"We are all travelers in the wilderness of this world, and the best that we find in our travels is an honest friend." Robert Louis Stevenson
Hobie
"We are all travelers in the wilderness of this world, and the best that we find in our travels is an honest friend." Robert Louis Stevenson
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Re: OT: Need help with WATER damaged Rugar 44 blackhawk
That might be the best way. However, it wouldn't hurt to get a quote from a local gunsmith, if there are any really good ones near you.Bear 45/70 wrote:I say send it to Ruger. They will either fix it (probably) or replace it.
Some anectdotes to consider:
Not too long ago, I purchased a scope for a levergun at a local sporting goods shop with its own gun "specialist". He also installs them using a laser bore device, for free. I have known him for many years, and he is an honest and conscientious man. But he just recently went into this line of work in retirement. The rifle lined up, but the sight was not mounted directly vertical to the gun - very poorly done.
Despite the old Johnny Carson jokes, Fresno is actually a pretty large city and therefore not just some small town with Gomer Pyle type semi-trained gunsmiths. Then again, it is not Los Angeles. Two years ago I went to a very well established, leading gun shop in Fresno to have their gunsmith untweak the cylinder of an old aluminum .38 Special snubby; it was slightly out of alignment either from shooting Plus-P rounds, or else from a family member slamming the cylinder open and shut like James Cagney or George Raft - I don't know what happened, exactly. Now, there is a small bare aluminum spot, a gouge, showing through the beautiful blueing at the bottom of the frame where the idiot put the gun in an unprotected vice. (Yeah, I could sue the guy and ruin relations with the gun shop - but it doesn't change the fact that this heirloom piece, carried as a hideout gun by me for many years, is permanently changed).

My faithful old duty and personal carry .45 Colt Government Mk IV Series 70 had some holster wear (blueing wearing off on the sides from holstering and unholstering). I decided that it was too valuable (to me, at least) to entrust it to any of the local dudes who claim to be professionals in this area. I sent it to Colt. It was very expensive, and they had it for several weeks. But they checked out the complete gun for functioning, springs, and parts, put on a new collet bushing, and gave it a clean bill of health. Its blueing is flawless, and it literally looks like a brand new firearm.
Before I carried the .45, I carried a Colt Python (.357) in the "revolver days" of law enforcement as a young deputy. Its beautiful Colt Royal Blue finish is worn in a few places, so when I can afford it, I plan to send it to Colt and have them do their magic.

Factory stuff is almost always more expensive, but they REALLY know what they are doing - they have to. I am very circumspect about * ever * allowing another independent gunsmith to work on my firearms(s), unless I have verified beyond all doubt that he is truly expert with that particular firearm, like perhaps our Nate "Kiowa" Jones, at http://www.StevesGunz.com, for levergun work. I have other stories; these are just my own anecdotes from which I have learned beyond any doubt that many "gunsmiths" don't know what the heck they are doing.