Holster tutorial, Part 5. The finale.

[kimwcook]

Here's the last installment of the series.

Here's the holster after being stitched along the long edge. The last and final sewing.


Close up view.


I then took the lineolium knife and cut a straight line along the outer edge being careful not to go to far towards the stitching. I then slicked the edge. A shot showing the edge slicked.


Edge view of same slicked outer edge.


I had a feeling the holster was going to be a little tight, so I wrapped the FA in a one gallon ziplock to place inside the wet holster for molding.


Another picture of how I just wrap the excess around the revolver.


I case the now pretty much finished holster again in hot water till it's good and saturated. Then, shove the baggie wrapped piece into the holster. I kind of do a little molding with the leather now because when it dries it's going to hard to move around. I then place it over a forced air outlet of the house and let it dry. I do come back a short time later and flair the upper ears of the holster for easier holstering later.

Here's a picture of the revolver in the holster with the baggie on it.


And, voila, here's the finished piece after it's dried and a leather cream, Skidmore's in this case, applied.


A closer shot.


Backside.


And finally on the money belt I'll use to carry it with. You can see the rather drastic angle I designed into it. I ride horses and want to carry it will riding. Don't mind the belly or attire. I'm at home on days off.


Finally, the end of of the tutorial. I hope you guys enjoyed it. I took some shortcuts trying to get it done within internet time. Plus, I did it on the floor of my livingroom. This is a one hundred percent handmade holster. Anyone can do it with simple tools. This is the first holster I've made for the FA and there's a couple of places I'd give a little extra room. I normally use a saddle oil for finishing, but like everything else, I can't find it in the loads of stuff we have stored. I used a finishing cream and it came out a little mottled. Like it's antiqued. I actually like it. But wouldn't suggest it for a uniform coloring. I've gotta get my shop built so I can use my tools. I'd like to give my wife, Donn, credit for some of the pictures. Now, it's time to enjoy football.

[Ysabel Kid]

What an excellent series! Thank you for taking the time to share this. Already started relieving the winter blues - and winter isn't even here yet!

I molded a holster once using this method - covered it in a think coat of oil, then wrapped it tight in Saran wrap. Thoroughly soaked the holster until it was completely wet and pliable. Inserted the gun (my Walker reproduction), and took an old toothbrush handle, which I had made very smooth, and proceded to rub down the holster, making sure it fit very nicely. After I was satisfied with the molding, I removed the gun, set the holster in front of a register, then removed the Saran wrap from the gun and made sure it was oiled correctly and put away. Worked like a charm!

Thanks again!!!

[Hillbilly]

thanks... one question

How much do you figure extra on the pattern to allow for the thickness of the pistol?

I think I will give this a go soon... I have a long barrel Colt New Frontier and your slim jim would be a natural for it.

Good tutorial thanks again

Jeff

[reo]

Inspiring, thank you for the tutorial. Nice work.

[Old Savage]

Nice work - is there a Dos Equis holster????

[Borregos]

Thanks again, an interesting series.

[Tycer]

Thank you very much!

[RIHMFIRE]

These posts have been top notch!
Some of the very best!
I think I may have found a new hobby too!
Thanks for posting this series....
have you done any mexican double loops
or cheyenne holsters?

[Grizz]

kimwcook

thanks for taking the time to show the process. I'm inspired and will go to work on a holster idea for concealed carry. looks like fun!

[rjohns94]

I really enjoyed the series. Thanks for taking the time to do that. I wonder if the the whole 5 part series could get a sticky with its links or something like that. Would be wonderful ready material for future reference.

[Pete44ru]

[How much do you figure extra on the pattern to allow for the thickness of the pistol?]

Refer to the previous post: Tutorial #1, which shows & describes it pretty clearly.

Since the pistol is wrapped with the pattern paper, the thickness of the pistol is physically integrated into the process.

It's always safe, to cut the leather a little oversize, if one's not sure, as the pistol can be then test-wrapped, and the leather trimmed to nearer final size before sewing, etc.

Thank you, for a thoughtful & informative tutorial, kinwcook !

.

[JerryB]

Thank's again, and I too would like to see this put together as a single post to save. If any one has a pattern for a single loop I would sure lke to see it.

[nemhed]

Thanks a lot for taking the time to put this tutorial together and posting all the pictures! I've squirreled this information away for future use. I think I'll order some leather working tools with my Christmas money.

[Hillbilly]

Thanks Pete...I sorta missed that but it makes sense. I guess it's best to err on the tight side as leather will stretch...right?
Strap goods are easy,,, never made a holster

Did I mention this is a great place to learn stuff ?...Thanks

Jeff

[kimwcook]

You guys are more than welcome. I hadn't made a holster in a couple of years and during this tutorial it became evident I need to get back into it.

Hillbilly, leather will stretch a little, that's why I wet mold my holsters to their respective firearm. For a personal fit. But, it'll only go so far. Best to err on the side of to big than to small. To big the holster will form itself to the firearm and snug up. To small and the holster get's stretched all sorts of out of shape.

[C. Cash]

Very nice!

[kimwcook]

JerryB, here's a single loop I made a couple of years ago. It is just like making the slim jim style only you need to pattern the loop. If you look at the these pictures you'll see what you need to do.

Front view.


Back view.


I'd take it apart and show you laid out, but it's been wet molded and doesn't want to come apart. I won't force it.

[Old Ironsights]

Thanks for the writeup. Very informative. Now, combine it all into a single PDF and make little booklets to sell ad gunshows. You'lll be rich!

Question: Given the angle, is thete enough tension for retention? Maybe I'm just paranoid (maybe?) but I'd be wanting a thumb-break...

[kimwcook]

OI, with the wet molding technique I use, the length of the bbl. and weight, it's a deliberate pull to get the piece out of the holster. I'm not concerned of it coming out. But, putting in a hammer thong isn't that hard if it's planned into the design. I could even put one in now if I wanted or warranted. Punch a couple of holes and run a leather string through it and there ya go.

[Buck Elliott]

HOT water is a no-no... Tepid water will do just as well. Let the holster soak up unough to be pliable, then set aside ( you can even wrap it in plastic for a few hours...) When you're ready to mold the holster to the gun, wrap the gun in a couple layers of Saran Wrap (less bulk & bulging...) the fit carefully into the holster and press gently around contours of gun to fit leather to metal.

My preference for finishing is OLIVE OIL, applied in several steps, then a top coat (or 2) of Fiebings BagKote to top it all off.

[awp101]

Bump!