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House went on the market Thursday and I had a showing this morning at 11 and had to vacate the house. So, as it wasn't quite 100 yet, I grabbed the Bulldog, the Tisas 1911 A1 and the Danish M-1867 rolling block and headed out to the range at Avenger Field. The Bulldog functioned flawlessly and so did that 1911, spanking the steel at 25 yards without making me even try. I did realize, however, why I don't play well with a GI model -- enough web flesh in my otherwise medium-sized paw for the hammer to draw blood. Two dozen rounds were enough as I had left my shooting glove at home.
Then I pulled out the Dane. She is slightly homely on the outside, but the action is watch-tight and the bore is pristine. Despite the barleycorn sights, my 71-year-old eyes and at least a 10-pound trigger, it herded the Lee 405-grain HBs hand-lubed with SPG over 29 grains of H4198 into a satisfying cluster at 50 yards. Brass was standard Starline .45-70, and it looked just perfect upon extraction, so this Dane was kissed with a .45-70 reamer sometime in her past as so very many were that were imported into the States. Today's lesson? A thin UnderArmour T-shirt is poor protection from that buttplate made by the Danes of German steel 150 years ago.
Bill... 5 minutes with a file and you can stop that blood-letting.
Unload the gun .. pull the hammer back as far as it will go. Mark how much metal to remove and using the file carefully, trim the back the hammer spur, starting underneath. Shape it and it is not noticeable.
I did it to this one..
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Jim, is it that easy? Good gracious I will work on it. With their 1911 A1 U.S. Army model, Tisas copied nearly every detail of the Remington Rands made starting in 1942, including the flat-sided Type E hammer. I have read they are actually making them for the CMP. Tisas abandoned MIM parts a year or two ago, which I appreciate. So you just take a little off the back flat of the spur with a fine file eh?
Shorten the spur a little so it doesn't come back so far and then take metal off the underside and shape it so it looks close to the original shape. It's not a lot of metal to remove. Just enough to keep the hammer from biting you.
Here's one that has been modified ala Jim's suggestion:
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Bought that war surplus 1911 Rem Rand back in the mid 60s. It was in a pawn shop. When I asked to see it the owner pulled it out of the display case, inserted a magazine, jacked the slide back and shot it into a 4" think piece of wood on the wall with a playing card tacked to it. Scared the stuff out of me, my buddy who was with me and an old lady browsing the jewelry display case. Would have been half a dozen swat teams surrounding the place if done today.
Had no idea at the time that it might eventually have collectors value. Spent the better part of a summer with stones and emory cloth removing the parkerized finish. It has been reblued a couple of times. Left it with my dad when I went in the army and the old swamp cooler left a thin film of rust which I dutifully removed and had it reblued.
Not all original - different grip panels, main spring housing, vintage target hammer (with Jim's suggested mod). Used to buy army ball ammo from an army surplus store (buck a box of 50 if membor serves). Brought back lots of good memories.
Haven't shot it in ages. Will have to drag the old girl out for a bit shooting.
I have Dads old Remington Rand. He had it nickle plated to withstand the environment during the Korean War. He was on B-29's. Its scary accurate. Beat out a Gold Cup I used to have.
I have never suffered from hammer bite by a 1911, whether military issue or civilian. My first encounter was in boot camp and our instructor told everyone to grip the butt, then went around and corrected those that gripped too high. It is also influenced by how "fleshy" one's hands are. I don't have any experience with the Tisas, but my Philippine imports have been first rate.
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Shown here with Hogue grips & the better sights I got from Brownell's. Really makes a difference for these 74 yo eyes. Still fixed, the front is still staked, but nice square blade and deep square slot in the rear makes for a good sight picture.
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Griff,
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession! AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
My experiences w/ 1911s are similar to Griff's. Just one of those things that I've never had an issue with.
Getting a good grip on any handgun is entirely subjective to the size and shape of your hands
I've always wanted one of the large frame, double stack .45ACP and I've tried several. FNs, Glocks, Para
and I just can't get a good enough grip to shoot them well. I really liked the FN, but couldn't shoot it for snot.
Bill, best of luck with the house. Are you staying in TX or continuing your tour of the southern States?
jb
jasonB " Another Dirty Yankee"
" Tomorrow the sun will rise. Who knows what the tide could bring?"
Jason, the goal is to move back to New Mexico -- Silver City, high up on the Continental Divide, with four real seasons and mountains and trout streams.
Bill in Oregon wrote: ↑Sun Aug 18, 2024 3:10 pm
Jason, the goal is to move back to New Mexico -- Silver City, high up on the Continental Divide, with four real seasons and mountains and trout streams.
Looks like a great location. I discovered it's part of the geologic structure of N. Aridzona. At the sweet spot for elevation, and maybe some good dirt roads roads?
Silver City? Very good choice, Bill! My family lived in Ft Bayard for a time; my father was a TB doctor. We kids went to school in Bayard at Cobre High School. Unfortunately Ft Bayard has fallen into disrepair, the doctors' residences were some grand old houses. I don't get back down there nearly enough but it's a wonderful area, full of history and charm.
Walt, I think I might have posted a couple of photos I took last June at Ft. Bayard. It is painful to see the former grace and grandeur succumb to time, New Mexico weather and neglect.
The day I took these, it seemed the very skies were upset about it.
