Writing on a stock.

[Scott Tschirhart]

I had my old friend Ed Head sign the stock of my Ruger Scout Rifle a few years ago. I’d like to use the rifle without disturbing the writing. I wonder if anyone else has been able to use a spray on product to protect such writing. Maybe a clear lacquer?

[Ysabel Kid]

I can't remember what I was trying to protect (I do know it wasn't writing on a gunstock), but I remembered spraying a clear acrylic over something to save the writing and all it did was dissolve it!

[Scott Tschirhart]

That’s my fear

[1894cfan]

I'd suggest getting an air brush used for arts and crafts, and a compressor and practice using clear lacquer thinned down quite a bit so you can spray a REALLY thin coat on something. Then when you're used to it, do the same thing on the stock, laying down really thin coats at low pressure and let them dry between coats. I've done that with lacquer over water based paints on plastic models with no problems. Just takes a fair amount of practice, though. HTH

[Ji in Hawaii]

I think of lacquer thinner as a chemical as strong and harsh as acetone, so I would personally be weary of lacquers. I have found clear aerosol acrylics to be more forgiving. If you know what pen was used to write with use to to create a sample that you can try various clear coats on to test the reactions. When applying clear coats make the initial very light, and thin, and let it dry thoroughly before applying another coat. Sometimes a thin coat will not react like a heavier coat may, and a thin coat creates a protective barrier against the following coats. Several thins coats better than a few thick coats. It also prevents runs in the clear coat. I make 'ukuleles, and a few I make which had artistic writing using permanent markers worked well with clear acrylic spray.

[GunnyMack]

Try a water based acrylic or polyurethane, very good chance it won't smear,smudge, remove ant ink.
But why not use tru oil stock finish, boiled linseed oil. They are just about inert.

[2ndovc]

What about a spare stock? I think Boyds makes one for the Ruger. That way the signed one can stay safe, play hard with the spare without worry.

Just a thought.

jb

[marlinman93]

The concern for me would be whether whatever was put over the finish doesn't have any reaction to the original finish! It would be a shame to spray something on, and it had a bad reaction, and wiping it off lost the signature.
I had the dash of my '37 Austin sedan signed by famous old cam guru Ed Iskenderian, and then sprayed clear enamel over it to protect the signature. But I knew my dashboard had enamel on it, since I painted it myself.

[Grizz]

What about engraving the name? Yeah it removes the ink, but it permanentizes the inscription . . .

[1894cfan]

I second the engraving. Years ago I started getting onto what was then call paragraving that was started by a dentist who was bored while at work. He called his business Paragraphics. I still have the tools from back then.
However, whatever coating you decide to apply, my recommendation of using an airbrush and REALLY light coats remains. Light coats won't flood the ink that's already on the stock while sealing it.

[765x53]

What was it signed with? If it was a "Sharpie", I don't think you need to protect it.

[Sixgun]

You know those label machines that will print out what you want to print? I have some of these labels that I know will be permanent on what I put them on, like my name, but after a year or so the adhesive on the label tape will give out. I got 2 part clear epoxy and some of these labels are still there 10-15 years later and it never faded or wore.

You can tape off the signature with masking tape, mix up the epoxy and just smear a thin coat over it with your finger.—-006

[Scott Tschirhart]

What was it signed with? If it was a "Sharpie", I don't think you need to protect it.

Yes

[GunnyMack]

Get yourself a sharpie and write on some wood then try different finishes, I doubt you will smudge it!

[Ray]

Deleted.

[Streetstar]

If it’s a laminate stock, I’d be tempted to put some Mylar over it and call it good

I’m an avid mountain biker and most of the modern enthusiast grade stuff is carbon fiber for the frames, so it’s common to use Mylar to protect the weave in areas that are prone to getting beat up and seems to work like a champ and wears very well