Win. 1965 model 94 pre and post info

[1Lux]

I've been looking for days.

Is there a list of interchangeable parts available for model 94's?

I have a 1965 model 98. Finger lever seems bent, lever won't set the safety while the bolt is in battery without pressure. I've taken it apart several times cleaned it like I'm OCD. The firing pin block sits a little low, as well as the lever link. The bolt seems to sit firmly and the extractor works well.

I realize the terminology matters. Please do not offer advice on replacing my rifle or switching brands. I'm seeking information, not advice or opinions. Thanks, y'all.

[J Miller]

1Lux, Welcome to the forum.

There is really no reason to interchange pre-post 94 parts, considering that post 64 parts are available. Although I'm sure there is such a list somewhere.

For exploded drawings and parts go to Numrich Gun Parts, or they might be going by Gun Parts Corp, in West Hurley, NY.

There are several other sources for parts as well, although right now I'm drawing a blank.

And last, but shoulda been first, search this forum, there is tons of threads about fixing Win 94s.

Good luck.

Joe

[fordwannabe]

A suggestion to help identify the actual problem, take a piece of leather, hard rubber ect and cut a small piece put it between the lever and the pin coming out of the bottom tang, close the lever( will take some figuring to get a proper thickness). If having a spacer in there allows the gun to fire then you are probably correct and the lever is bent, if it doesn’t allow the gun to fire continue looking for the issue. Gun parts Corp, jack First, and flea bay are all options for a different lever. Thought though if it was bent once to make it not work can probably be bent again to make it work. Good luck and let us know how you make out. 1965 was an outstanding year for production....my Momma and Dad produced ME!

[Griff]

Short answer is yes. But are you sure your lever is bent? The locking lug should come up flush with the top of the receiver... a few thousandths is not likely to matter a great deal. And given the vagaries of mass production, you may need to have a fair amount of pressure on the bolt for the lever to force the trigger block safety to be released. Amongst my mdl 94s I have quite a variance between the amount of pressure needed to disengage the safety. From the one-finger pressure to the two handed full-court press.

With the gun empty, and the bolt fully closed, I just looked at 2 of my mdl 94s (both post 64), and one has an easy safety, the other is about a 5 on a 1-10 scale. But, while the bolt is fully engaged, (extractor raised into the bolt notch), the link is not fully closed, ergo, the locking lug is not fully raised. All happens as the lever disengages the trigger block safety.

As Joe said, and Welcome to THE Forum!

[Pete44ru]

I've been looking for days.

Is there a list of interchangeable parts available for model 94's?

I have a 1965 model 98. Finger lever seems bent, lever won't set the safety while the bolt is in battery without pressure. I've taken it apart several times cleaned it like I'm OCD. The firing pin block sits a little low, as well as the lever link. The bolt seems to sit firmly and the extractor works well.

I realize the terminology matters. Please do not offer advice on replacing my rifle or switching brands. I'm seeking information, not advice or opinions. Thanks, y'all.

Since you want no advice or opinions, the answer to your question would be...……… no.


.

[1Lux]

Thank you guys for all the help. When the lever is up it is touching the safety but not disengaging. The firing pin block is not flush with the top of the bolt and the finger lever hinge is protruding about an 8th of an inch below the receiver frame. I have disassembled and cleaned everything thoroughly. I'll try to post pics in the a.m.

Also, when I said I didn't want opinions I meant something like, "Go buy a Marlin." or some such. No offense intended.

[claybob86]

Also, when I said I didn't want opinions I meant something like, "Go buy a Marlin." or some such. No offense intended.

You won't see much of that here, it's a nice place! Welcome to the forum and looking forward to the pictures.

[Griff]

#55 is called a "link". If it is not fully inside the receiver, the locking lug is not all the way up and the gun is not "in battery".

[1Lux]

The hinge (55) is what I was referring to w/ ”finger lever hinge". It will only go flush when I squeeze the lever. The bolt is in battery with the protrusion of the hinge and the gap between the lever and the butt. The hinge flexes when I squeeze the lever just enough for everything to line up for a shot.

It shoots well I just don't like having something that's going to cause me to have to think during my shot and it's not how the rifle was designed.

[1Lux]

They're not in order. It's squeezed and not squeezed. That's the official scientific term.

[Pisgah]

By my recollection, I have owned 4 Model 94s thru the years, and to one degree or another all of them required a squeeze beyond full lever closure to deactivate the safety.

[J Miller]

1Lux,

From your pics, your 94 looks the same as 90% of the post 64s I've owned. To deactivate the trigger block you have to hold the lever up to disengage the block. I shouldn't take such pressure that it distracts you from shooting. Some of them have really strong springs, and some of them will be found to be in a bind.
At this point I'd remove the lower tang, disassemble it and check the springs for alignment in the tang mortise and any debris or damage to the parts inside. I have found some of them had the springs twisted inside to the point they were dragging on the side of the tang. repositioning the springs eased up the tension big time. I also found one where the lower tang was full of horse hair and pine needles. It took a total disassembly and cleaning to make that one right.

One other thing would be to check a fit issue that forum member Nath has discussed several times. The last time in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72405&p=827405#p827405 . He can describe the problem better than I can as I've never run into it.

Joe

[OldWin]

I have also seen what Joe described with the trigger block spring dragging on the tang.
Also, take a look at the detent plunger and notch on the lower link. If it's movement is restricted, it can make the last little bit of lever movement difficult.

[1Lux]

Okay, first off, thanks. I spent the morning cleaning and shooting and tinkering. It takes nominal pressure to disengage the safety now but it still requires pressure. I just want it snug. It seems sloppy to me. I don't have time to put it on a bench but it's shooting pretty consistent so I'm off to the races. I'll update soon. Thank you again.

[65bee]

Nature of the beast! No offense, but the 1964 and somewhat later vintage '94s were truly poor excuses for what had been Winchesters flagship model for 70 years. Stamped tin parts, sintered-steel receivers, birch stocks, etc, etc. All of them that I ever encountered functioned just as yours is. If the lifter happened to get bent, which many did, they wouldn't even cycle. I think you're beating a dead horse trying to convert it into a pre-64. Good luck!

[AJMD429]

This thread is a great example of what makes this forum so great. Nobody tried to lecture the guy or talk him into buying a Marlin.

Besides, I'd have just told him to sell the dern Winchester and get a Ruger 96/44....

[M. M. Wright]

1Lux, Many CAS shooters simply remove that safety from their 73s and 92s. I'm a bit more cautious and only thin the spring 'til I can't feel any resistance from it. You need to read Nath's thread on clearing the lever from strain against the bolt. There shouldn't be any resistance to the lever coming up to the lower tang but the newer actions are not tuned that way but they can be. Does your lever pop down when the rifle is shot? If it does, the slot in the lever needs to be elongated by a couple of strokes from a chain saw file. Just enough to keep the lever from being tight against the bolt. It (the bolt) needs to rest against the locking bar.

[Trailboss]

Nature of the beast! No offense, but the 1964 and somewhat later vintage '94s were truly poor excuses for what had been Winchesters flagship model for 70 years. Stamped tin parts, sintered-steel receivers, birch stocks, etc, etc. All of them that I ever encountered functioned just as yours is. If the lifter happened to get bent, which many did, they wouldn't even cycle. I think you're beating a dead horse trying to convert it into a pre-64. Good luck!

Very true. When the Winchester Board appointed a sewing machine designer to head the company, every firearm manufactured began to look like it was made by Singer.

[Tycer]

94s are loose by design. They can have a Century of gunk and dirt in them and still function reliably. Question is... how are the groups?

[Griff]

I just pulled 8 of my Winchester 94s from the safe... and looked at all of them... The following is a description of how they came out of the safe... actions closed; 7 have the link fully in the frame, (or so close that it's negligible movement) before the safety is disengaged, and only 1 where the link is not fully closed until the trigger block safety is being disengaged.

The one that has about the safe amount of the link protruding under the receiver is a '67 Canadian Centennial that's been re-worked before it came to me. I do not know if there are replacement parts in there or not. The only other 94 mdl action I have in this safe is a 1972 mdl 64A that I bought NIB from a forum member, and it has a minute amount of movement of the link as the lever is raised to disengage the trigger block safety. And I'd call it pretty close to negligible. I am so accustomed to the movement of the lever in disengaging the safety that I've never really looked at the link and lug movement as anything but ordinary.

Then I worked the action all on all of them. Empty, unloaded, just levered them open and closed... in order the fully close the action, locking lug fully up, the safety is disengaged, and as the pressure on the lever is relaxed, the lever falls down, and the safety engages. In cycling all their actions, on all of them, after fully closing the action, only one does the lever stay up, disengaging the trigger block safety. Which I regard as a problem.* On the balance, the lug stays in position, and the link may, or may not fall a bit as the safety is being engaged. (By engaged, I mean the lever is allowed to fall and the block falls in place the prevent the trigger being pulled).

Hopefully, the following pics will show what I mean... #1: the bolt appears closed, but neither the link nor the lug are fully in their location for the gun to be "in battery".

#2: The link and lug have been fully closed, and tension on the lever released, trigger block safety is engaged, the trigger cannot be pulled, yet the gun is "in battery".

#3: The finger lever must be depressed and held to disengage the trigger block safety.




* This one, a 1970 production has the lever pop open upon discharge, so I believe there's a problem internally, that I simply haven't spent any time on diagnosing... it not like I don't have others that work perfectly... besides, I bought it to commemorate my marriage. And if it's a little dysfunctional... okay, so be it.