The following link is to my original post for anyone who hasn't read it or wants to re-read it.
http://www.levergunscommunity.com/viewtopic.php?t=5501
MY Bisley revolver returned yesterday. They replaced the barrel. The new barrel measures a little over .451 inch groove diameter. They did a good job replacing the barrel. The front sight is at top dead center so it should shoot to POI horizontally. The only thing I am a little disappointed about is the barrel/cylinder gap which measures between .009 and .010 inch. While it is a little larger than I would like, I don't see it as a problem. Since I don't try to magnamize my 45 Colts the little velocity loss from the barrel/cylinder gap doesn't concern me.
I will try to get out and shoot it this weekend. I can also now finish the work I want to do on the gun to make it function better. When I first bought the revolver it was almost impossible to hold the gun out at arms length and cock it because of the heavy mainspring and roughness in the frame. I disasembled the gun and stoned the inside of the frame which removed about 30% of the cocking force needed to cock the gun. I then started working on the hammer spring to lighten it since you can't buy a reduced power spring for the Bisley. That was before I discovered the oversized barrel. Now that it is back, I will finish working on the spring and I will also fit a new bolt for a better fit in the cylinder notches and to refine the timing of the bolt drop. I will also replace the cylinder bushing to remove the small amount of end shake. Once I am done it should be a good running revolver.
I'll report on it's accuracy next week.
Update on Problem with Cimarron Firearms
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- Ysabel Kid
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Whew!
Looking forward to range reports!
Looking forward to range reports!
Kind regards,
Tycer
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Tycer
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- Griff
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Very good. Might I make a suggestion regarding the mainspring? I've done several, tho not on a Bisley, but I'm guessing the concept the same. If your's uses a flat mainspring, I offer the following:
Take the width of the spring down to about ¼" from about 3/8" from the both the bottom and the top. I then "round-off" all corners to radius them. I taper the the top until it's slightly over 1/3 greater than the width of the "groove" the hammer roller rides in. This ensures the corners of the spring don't catch the corners of the frame as it is bent into the frame during cocking. I then polish ALL edges on a high speed polisher to remove almost every imperfection in the sides and new corners. Grinding any metal destroys or distorts the grain of the steel and this is what leads to mainspring failures.
Don't have one of mine here to post a pic of, or I woulda!
Take the width of the spring down to about ¼" from about 3/8" from the both the bottom and the top. I then "round-off" all corners to radius them. I taper the the top until it's slightly over 1/3 greater than the width of the "groove" the hammer roller rides in. This ensures the corners of the spring don't catch the corners of the frame as it is bent into the frame during cocking. I then polish ALL edges on a high speed polisher to remove almost every imperfection in the sides and new corners. Grinding any metal destroys or distorts the grain of the steel and this is what leads to mainspring failures.
Don't have one of mine here to post a pic of, or I woulda!

Griff,
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
Griff, I started off narrowing the spring, but it was so thick and stiff that I started thinning it also.
The Bisley spring is more of a challenge than a normal SAA spring because when you cock the Bisley the spring contacts the trigger guard before the gun is fully cocked so that the last movenent to cock the gun uses only the top third of the spring. Because of that it makes it a little tricky to get the cocking force uniform through the entire cocking motion. I have a new Bisley spring just in case I mess up modifying the original spring.
The Bisley spring is more of a challenge than a normal SAA spring because when you cock the Bisley the spring contacts the trigger guard before the gun is fully cocked so that the last movenent to cock the gun uses only the top third of the spring. Because of that it makes it a little tricky to get the cocking force uniform through the entire cocking motion. I have a new Bisley spring just in case I mess up modifying the original spring.
John Boy, no one to my knowledge, including VTI, offers a light mainspring for an Uberti made Bisley revolver. The Bisley uses a totally different mainspring that a normal single action. It actually has hooks on the upper end that engage a "T" looking bar that is attached to the hammer.
Since there are so few Bisley models made compared to a typical single action it probably isn't cost effective for anyone to make a reduced power spring for them.
Since there are so few Bisley models made compared to a typical single action it probably isn't cost effective for anyone to make a reduced power spring for them.