6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten Them

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Old No7
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6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten Them

Post by Old No7 »

I'll bet there are other ways to do this, but I figured I'd post this in case it helps someone else when they mount a new sight or scope.

The challenge I had was:
How to shorten those small 6x48 Filler Screws by 0.025” to 0.030” so they’d fit flush.

Luckily, I had a few extra and only 2 to do, but gee -- how do you hold 'em???

A pair of tweezers didn’t work... I could have used a small metal jewelers vice, but that probably would have damaged the threads. A set of rubber jaws in my bench vice didn't work either, as they just popped out the moment the file hit it. So then I tried a pair of nylon fishing pliers clamped really tight... That ended up launching 2 screws to never-to-be-found-again-land after they jumped out of the jaws. Then on top of all this, it turns out that none of my files (and I have quite a few good ones from my locksmithing days) would even touch the finish of the screw -- never mind taking some metal off.

What I really needed was a thin 1/16" metal plate that was already threaded to 6x48 -- but of course, I didn't have that...

Time to get creative! So I used a hole punch to put different sized holes in some tough leather scrap, and then I screwed it into one of the holes that was a tight fit:
Savg 99A Filler Screws (1).jpg
Savg 99A Filler Screws (2).jpg
Then I slowly and carefully ground it down with a 3/4" stone in my Dremel, at moderate speeds:
Savg 99A Filler Screws (3).jpg
Great, it worked! :wink:

This last picture shows them fitting flush -- and "clocked" or "timed" correctly -- on the muzzle of the new-to-me Savage 99A which I'd already scoped, and I didn't want to see the front sight in my view:
Savg 99A Filler Screws (4).jpg
Now I just need to add a touch of cold blue to blend them in a little better.

Using that holed leather strap to hold them really worked out well.

Tight groups.

Old No7
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Re: 6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten T

Post by AJMD429 »

Cool tip....I'd never have thought of that.

Glad to see I'm not the only one who likes the slots to be the same way. OCD for sure.
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Re: 6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten T

Post by claybob86 »

Good idea. How do you get the screws to clock like that?
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Re: 6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten T

Post by Griff »

Well.... if I'd had to deal to 26" of snow... I'd tackle a project like that also. When I do, I'll get around to the Remington 700 that has lost a screw or two!
claybob86 wrote:Good idea. How do you get the screws to clock like that?
In my case, it's sheer luck! Or so tight they'll never come out, Lock-tite... I refuse to bother grinding the thread end down until they start at the "correct" place on the "clock".
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Re: 6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten T

Post by Pete44ru »

.

I long ago (about 40 years or so) D/T'd a thin (1/8" thick) metal 3"x5" plate with several 6-48, 8-40 & 10-32 holes for the grinding wheel shortening of (headed) scope mount screws that bottomed out on some rifles if left full length.

Each hole gets gradually thinner after multiple screw grinding in each hole in turn - the plate I prepared years ago has about 25% of it's holes still useful, currently - so, I don't think that I'll need to make a new plate before I go for my Dirt Nap.

For headless filler screws, however, I've accumulated a couple of dozen in various very short, regular, and long lengths from the various rifle that I scoped for friends & acquaintances over the years - so I just pick the size I need for whatever depth hole I want to fill. (aka: K.I.S.S. ;) )

Any headless filler screw, that's shorter than a hole is deep, can be seated flush via not screwing it in any further than "flush" (secure with blue Loctite if needs be).

.
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Re: 6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten T

Post by jringo8769 »

hey that is a great idea...never would have thought of it....thank you for sharing...God Bless,John
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Re: 6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten T

Post by Ben_Rumson »

Thanks, I'll use that idea!
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Re: 6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten T

Post by GunnyMack »

I was showed/ taught how to make a very simple holder, I'll try to explain.

2 pieces of thin stock, brass or steel works best. 1/16" thick.

Drill holes through 1 end, D&T 1 of the holes, screw together. This allows the holder to pivot.

Opposite end drill hole in one plate( per screw size) so screw will fit into hole.

To use the holder, install screw between the 2 plates, then while wearing a glove, push the screw into the grind stone. The screw will spin and you don't get an odd angle.

This works great for screws with a head

Granted this does not work with plug screws and a D&T plate is only way to do it.

Most 'gun screws' are surface hardened, they can be tough to get through surface but once thru they cut easily.
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Re: 6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten T

Post by 765x53 »

For those with more money than time or skill. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... od599.aspx
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Re: 6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten T

Post by GunnyMack »

765- that's exactly what I was trying to explain.
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Re: 6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten T

Post by jnyork »

765x53 wrote:For those with more money than time or skill. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... od599.aspx
Beat me to it.

Nothing like having the right tool for the job. :D
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Re: 6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten T

Post by M. M. Wright »

Yeah, that GIZZIE is what I immediately thought of. Course I can never find mine when I need it but then it won't work on filler screws. By the way, real filler screws have a very thin little lip at the top to prevent them from going too deep. Not like a set screw with no head at all.
I sell screws at gun shows and the filler screws and Winchester butt plate screws are the most popular.
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Re: 6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten T

Post by AJMD429 »

M. M. Wright wrote:By the way, real filler screws have a very thin little lip at the top to prevent them from going too deep. Not like a set screw with no head at all.
Yep. Annoying to have to use 'set screws' and have to LockTite them so they stay put.
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Re: 6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten T

Post by mark »

Good idea, I'll log it away.

Sometimes I use a tapping die holder when there isn't much to hold onto.

As you said, those little screws can travel a long way and are difficult to find.

Cheers Mark
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Re: 6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten T

Post by marlinman93 »

Good makeshift way to hold those headless or short screws while trimming them.
Went through this years ago also, and I decided to make a "jig" to trim screws. Got a short piece of 1/8" thick flat bar and drilled and tapped holes in it for every screw size I might encounter on my guns. Now I just grab that and spin the screw into it, and hold in on my little 1" wide belt sander. I put a screwdriver, or allen wrench into the screw while sanding it down, so I can use that to hold pressure against the belt, and turn it a little if needed. When I'm done it just hangs on a nail above the bench for the next time.
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Re: 6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten T

Post by Chuck 100 yd »

765x53 wrote:For those with more money than time or skill. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... od599.aspx
I have had one of those for many years. It occasionaly does come in handy although I usually use the threaded hole in a plate system. I keep a small plastic box full of such for when the need arises.

Another must have tool is the Brownells thread checker. It quickly identifies screw size and thread pitch. Also clearance and tap drill size. Most usefull tool ever for gun work.
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Re: 6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten T

Post by Richardx »

I wish I had this info a couple of months ago, but then again I wouldn't have had the fun of zinging those screws all over the room.
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Re: 6x48 Filler Screws for Sights & Scopes: How to Shorten T

Post by Old No7 »

Thanks for all for the feedback, and especially for the tips about making or buying a metal tool to hold those pesky little screws. If I mounted more scopes, I'd probably get or make one of those, but with "Necessity being the Mother of Invention" -- and my not wanting to wait -- the leather strap worked out OK for me... This time.
Griff wrote:
claybob86 wrote:Good idea. How do you get the screws to clock like that?
In my case, it's sheer luck! Or so tight they'll never come out, Lock-tite... I refuse to bother grinding the thread end down until they start at the "correct" place on the "clock".
Oh, I agree! I only ground them down because they were too long and bottomed-out before they sat flush...

I got lucky that they were flush on one of the 2 spots for every turn (at 0 and 180 degrees).

I've had to file on the bottoms of screw heads before to get them to "time" correctly -- on over 30' of stainless trim for my Dad's old wooden boat -- and that was NOT fun, as it seemed that almost a 1/3 of the screws needed to be trimmed to clock/time correctly, no matter how hard we tried to turn the driver. And the 'ol man didn't want the trim countersunk any deeper (which would have been much easier), as then he'd see a "low screw head"... :roll:

Hmm... I guess that's where I got my OCD issues! :wink:

Tight groups all.

Old No7
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