I have a Armi Sport 1892 Takedown and it does indeed take the Winchester screw set.
It's fact that many people set their lever guns up for short and long range use by retaining the rear sight.
Depending on the caliber and load howeve it might not make much sense to do that. The .357 Mag and .44 Mag rifles and carbines when shot with a full power load are already flat shooting by lever gun standards. For example with my .357 Mag zeroed at 170 yards it's only 4" high at the maximum mid range trajectory at 100 yards and it's only 4" low at 200 yards. That's a 200 yard point blank range where the bullet is never more than 4" above or below the line of sight.
If I zero it instead for 100 yards, the maximum mid range trajectory is just under an inch high at 55 yards and it's only 2" low at 130 yards.
In other words, setting it up for a short range sight and long range sight is pointless unless I'm defining long range as over 150 yards where a mid range trajectory of 2.5 -3" at 50 yards might be objectionable.
But frankly I've never found that to be the case. With a 170 yard zero, I'm an inch high at 25 yards, 2 3/4" high at 50 yards and 4" high at 100 yards. Those all work pretty well as you're holding under by easy to estimate amounts and your are not obscuring the target under the front blade. And at 100 yards it means a 6 0'clock hold on the standard 8" small bore 100 yd rifle target is perfect.
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Where setting it up for long and short range sights makes some sense is with low power loads in the 1000 fps range, where the trajectory starts to be curved enough that separate 50 yard and 100 or 150 yard sights start to make sense.
The other issue that pops up here is the potential interference between the barrel mounted sight and the tang sight, which is where a fold down rear sight comes into the picture. With flat trajectories and not much difference in the sight lines, the barrel mounted sight can still get in the way.
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The other approach of course is to just make the adjustments on the tang sight if you want to change from short to long range zeros or low to high velocity loads. Just establish your basic zero, by establishing it, then counting the number of clocks up from the bottom, so you can re-establish it. The rest is just a process of adjusting the sight to the other desired zeros and then writing down the changes needed from your basic zero on a reference card. The Marbles sight will give you from .48 or .55 MOA of adjustment with each click with 24" and 20" barrels respectively - or basically 1/4" at 50 yards, 1/2" at 100 yards and 1" at 200 yards.