50 Alaska cartridge

[Captain Quigley]

Is anyone using the 50 Alaska cartridge in their lever gun?

My 1895 Marlin guide gun is almost ready to be returned converted to 50 Alaska.

Looking for reloading materials, i.e. .511 copper jacketed bullets.

Know of any sources?

Thanks

[Pete44ru]

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Welcome to the fire ! !

IIRC, at least one board member had a .50 Alaskan, and several others have a .500S&W rifle (H&R and/or a Big Horn Armory Model 89) - so eventually, someone should be able to respond better than this dummy.


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[Chuck 100 yd]

Howdy! Sorry , I cant help with loads but be patient, there is a wealth of knowledge on this board. Someone will be along who can help.

[AJMD429]

I have a 500 S&W (Bighorn Armory) and it is a great cartridge (uses 0.500 bullets that are easier to find), but it is too high a pressure for the Marlin action with 'normal' loads. Possibly there would be a 'wildcat' version of the 50 Alaskan using the slightly smaller bullets, but then the 50 Alaskan itself is sort of a wildcat.

The 500 S&W is really 'too' powerful for most needs in full-bore loads, though, and unless I lived in bear country I think the 50 Alaskan would be plenty of punch. I tried to convince my wife I needed the 500 S&W due to the Cape Buffalo tracks I'd seen in the woods behind my (Midwestern USA) house, but she was too smart for me, and knew I just wanted a guy-toy.

[Malamute]

I happen to have two older boxes of Barnes Originals 450 gr bullets for 50-110 Winchester. I believe there is one missing from one box, so a total of 99 bullets. I would part with them for a reasonable amount.

[6pt-sika]

When I was Marlin FAT I wanted a WWG rifle in 50 AK . I was not as enamored with jacketed for the gun as I was with cast . I never bought one . I had a Marlin 1895 in 450 AK I bought from someone on here , I never was comfortable with that gun so I never fired it and sold it as is .

[Bronco]

I believe that the 50 Alaskan shoot the same bullet as the 50-110. .510 bore, check these guys out


http://www.custombrassandbullets.com/albuwo.html

John

[siberian505]

We shoot from nine grains of trail boss to lots of Lil gun in our lever 500s. My favorite load for spring bear is a 400@ 2135fps. Our loads are in the fifty thousand psi plus because we can. 450 Keith's at 1900 from an eighteen inch carbine are easily attained in a 1.620 case.

[Merle]

Is anyone using the 50 Alaska cartridge in their lever gun?

My 1895 Marlin guide gun is almost ready to be returned converted to 50 Alaska.

Looking for reloading materials, i.e. .511 copper jacketed bullets.

Know of any sources?

Thanks

I can't help but wonder why you would go to the expense of converting a rifle - THEN trying to find components.

[kaschi]

@ Merle: It's a matter of WANT!!! And I can relate to the OP!

[JohndeFresno]

No info from this poster, but -

Welcome, Cap'n!

[BenT]

You want the 50 B&M Alaskan. Same as the 50 Alaskan but shoots the same bullets (.500) as the 500 S&W , Much better bullet selection.

[WinFever]

I have a 475 Turnbull 71 Japchester, that I had rebored and chambered to 50-110, which I can also shoot 50 Alaskan in, kind of like a 22 long, in a 22 LR chamber. Since I usually just shoot paper I use only lead bullets and there is a good selection of those, I plan on getting a Lee mold for the 50-70, which is a .515 dia, 450g bullet. I'll size it to .512 and use either 4759 or IMR 4198 powder. I've only had this rifle in 50-110 for about a month, I thought about having the bore made to .500 for the better jacket bullet selection, but was afraid the next owner might run into pressure problems if he shot a full load 50 Alaskan cartridge (assuming he could it get to chamber). I stamped my barrel 50-110 WCF.

[Griff]

and Welcome to THE Forum!

[Thunder50]

Barnes is the only jacketed I have shot thru my 50AK, and darn few of them. I just shoot cast

[Merle]

@ Merle: It's a matter of WANT!!! And I can relate to the OP!

Yeah, I get that. But I want to be able to shoot my new toys, without going bankrupt.

[MingoKid]

I have a WWG 50 AK. Cast performance boolits is what I use almost exclusively. Hard cast lead gaschecks. Most of my load info came from a phone call with the previous owner Mike Rintoul. I would suspect that a phone call with the current owners would be a wealth of knowledge and help also. If you haven't shot lead through the bore prior, just be sure to clean very well first. One of my favorite leverguns and chambering. MK

[Blaine]

and Welcome to THE Forum!

+1

[AJMD429]

You want the 50 B&M Alaskan. Same as the 50 Alaskan but shoots the same bullets (.500) as the 500 S&W , Much better bullet selection.

I'm glad somebody knew what I was talking about, since I obviously didn't...

[Captain Quigley]

Thanks everyone for the replies.

The custom rifle builder has recommended that i use only copper jacketed bullets for the first 100 rounds to properly break in and season this new bbl.

I will probably transition into cast bullets sometime after seasoning the bbl.

Quig

[buckeyeshooter]

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm16 ... uns020.jpg

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm16 ... 0ak001.jpg

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm16 ... 0ak003.jpg

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm16 ... 0ak006.jpg

I shoot a 50 Alaskan Marlin Cowboy. Bought new, never fired and reworked by Turnbull.
My favorite load is the 535 grain Woodleigh RNSP, generally about 1800 fps. It is devastating on bears and elk.
My bear guide upon seeing it work said "I gotta get one of those".

[Malamute]

Catpain Quigley has expressed interest in my 50 cal bullets. Were making a deal. I'll let the two guys that also asked about them what the status of the deal is soon.

[Tactical Lever]

Thanks everyone for the replies.

The custom rifle builder has recommended that i use only copper jacketed bullets for the first 100 rounds to properly break in and season this new bbl.

I will probably transition into cast bullets sometime after seasoning the bbl.

Quig

Firstly, I think the whole break in of a barrel is some finely crafted hogwash. And this view is supported by some premium barrel makers.

Second, if it is a custom barrel, there should be very few rough spots that need polishing. That and (relatively) soft copper is not going to polish too much. The carbon from shooting will eventually do the job. If you do want to smooth it out, fire lap it. Or even regular polishing, but that is more work, less fun and probably no better.

And finally, I have it on some authority by an ex factory shooter that shooting copper mixes poorly with shooting lead. I am told that once you get it burnished with whatever you are shooting through it, best results are achieved by sticking with it. I am not sure about it, but it may warrant a good de-coppering after.

I would try to determine whether it "needs" anything by some shooting with cast and seeing how the accuracy is, and how easy to clean it is.

[Tactical Lever]

Hope I didn't ruffle too many feathers. Welcome to the forum!

Interested in hearing others thoughts on it as well, even if they don't agree with mine.

[JohndeFresno]

...Interested in hearing others thoughts on it as well, even if they don't agree with mine.

I now use Dyna-Tek Bore Coat, which allegedly embeds itself at a molecular level into the microscopic pits of the metal in your bore and coats it. You can allegedly shoot copper and lead interchangeably without any problems.

http://store.dyna-tek.com/Bore-Coat-Kit ... recoat.htm

So far, it seems to be working.

Then, I use Wipe-Out to clean the guns of any lead or copper, which I have previously tested with dramatic results (before Bore Coat).

[Tactical Lever]

...Interested in hearing others thoughts on it as well, even if they don't agree with mine.

I now use Dyna-Tek Bore Coat, which allegedly embeds itself at a molecular level into the microscopic pits of the metal in your bore and coats it. You can allegedly shoot copper and lead interchangeably without any problems.

http://store.dyna-tek.com/Bore-Coat-Kit ... recoat.htm

So far, it seems to be working.

Then, I use Wipe-Out to clean the guns of any lead or copper, which I have previously tested with dramatic results (before Bore Coat).

Was it pretty easy to apply?

[JohndeFresno]

...I now use Dyna-Tek Bore Coat, which allegedly embeds itself at a molecular level...Then, I use Wipe-Out to clean the guns of any lead or copper...

Was it pretty easy to apply?

Too easy!
Wipe-Out Foam (quickest cleaning method):
1) Shoot it in (make sure other end is plugged) and let it foam
2) Let it set (horizontal) a few minutes, then run patches through, for most cleanings
2a) Or let it set for a few hours, run patches until there is no blue (copper) or brownish black (lead)
First time use, use method 2a)
3) Dry patch or light oil back in bore as you would with any cleaning, depending upon storage or use.

Wipe-Out Liquid (less expensive per application):
1) Apply the stuff with a patch, loosely fit enough to saturate bore
2) Let it set (horizontal) for several hours or (easiest way) overnight
3) Run patches until no blue or brownish black is seen. Usually no more than 3 passes.
4) Dry patch or light oil back in bore as you would with any cleaning, depending upon storage or use.

No wire brushing is necessary, and no worries about ruining the crown of the barrel; practically no pressure is applied to any part of the bore. Incidentally, this is the only cleaning stuff that I can use inside the house (with proper protection) that does not invite complaints. It is practically odorless. Other stuff, especially Hoppe's, is aromatic to me but brings out rather lively responses from my beloved when used inside.

Bore Coat:
1) Clean your gun(s) thoroughly, per above. It is imperative to remove leading and copper fouling.
2) Apply Dyna-Tek Bore Coat with a mop type swab
3) Let it/them sit for 4 hours or a bit more
4) Shoot 8-10 rounds to seal the application

Less extensive cleaning is needed after Bore Coat, which carries the recommendation of yearly renewal.

[Tactical Lever]

Thanks John! I may try that out one day.