Any electronics geeks here?

Malamute · Post by **Malamute** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 7:41 pm

I have a medical widget that uses a power adapter from 120v ac and drops it to 6v (originally said 9v mistakenly) dc 600ma.
If I find a 12v power source (car charger), does the milli-amp matter if it matches?

I dont want to cook it with incorrect power supply.

jhrosier · Post by **jhrosier** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 7:59 pm

You can use a power supply that is rated for more amps as long as it Is 9VDC.
So a 9V/1000MA or 9V/1500MA supply would work, a 9V/350MA would probably fail.
Power supply voltage is generally non negotiable.

Jack

Malamute · Post by **Malamute** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:13 pm

OK, thanks Jack. The power sources I found were higher MA. I wasnt sure how that affected it.

It will be nice to be able to use it when driving.

Post by **AmBraCol** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:18 pm

Note that you'll need a 12 volt to 9 volt adapter. Just double checking you're not planning to plug it right into the 12 volt with no drop in voltage. That would result in "letting the smoke escape" which would not be a good thing.

jhrosier · Post by **jhrosier** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:34 pm

http://www.amazon.com/KEEDOX%C2%AE-Conv ... +converter

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:42 pm

Malamute wrote:I have a medical widget that uses a power adapter from 120v ac and drops it to 9v dc 600ma.
If I find a 12v power source (car charger), does the milli-amp matter if it matches?

I dont want to cook it with incorrect power supply.

Yes, the amperage is very important, the voltage will not burn it up, its the amperage that burn things up. If you go over amperage, you will burn what ever you are using up. Just match the voltage and the amperage, then you will be fine. Under amperage will work, but depending on how far under amperage you are will decide if it works correctly.

Especially if what you are powering is expensive, then the more closely you have to be with power supplies, it doesn't take very much with expensive electronics to brick them. (Bricking is rendering said device to be used as a "brick", because it will be burnt beyond repair.)

Steve

jhrosier · Post by **jhrosier** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 9:03 pm

SteveR wrote:...Yes, the amperage is very important, the voltage will not burn it up, its the amperage that burn things up. If you go over amperage, you will burn what ever you are using up.

Steve,

Please don't take this personally, but I actually do have a degree in this stuff, and you are precisely wrong.

Jack

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 9:54 pm

jhrosier wrote:
SteveR wrote:...Yes, the amperage is very important, the voltage will not burn it up, its the amperage that burn things up. If you go over amperage, you will burn what ever you are using up.
Steve,

Please don't take this personally, but I actually do have a degree in this stuff, and you are precisely wrong.

Jack

I = V/R. Current measured by Amperage, is what causes Mosfet components for burn up. So, please explain how, too much current, does not cause circuits to burn up? If to much amperage wasn't a problem, then why do they design circuits with fuses? (There are many other components that are affected by too much current also, not just limited by Mosfet, they just come to mind right now.)

Steve

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 10:02 pm

jhrosier wrote:
SteveR wrote:...Yes, the amperage is very important, the voltage will not burn it up, its the amperage that burn things up. If you go over amperage, you will burn what ever you are using up.
Steve,

Please don't take this personally, but I actually do have a degree in this stuff, and you are precisely wrong.

Jack

You also missed that I said, match the new to the old charger/device, so please don't take this the wrong way, but you are precisely wrong, and I don't have a degree, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn once.

Steve

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 10:07 pm

When you put it all together an inline fuse is always a good idea too.

Bullard4075 · Post by **Bullard4075** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 10:15 pm

Rusty wrote:When you put it all together an inline fuse is always a good idea too.

What size fuse ??? BAWHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Gosh I love this place.

Malamute · Post by **Malamute** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 11:01 pm

The difference I was concerned about is the MA. The existing power supply is 120v input, with 6v 600mA ouput.

The power supplies I found online are this,

http://www.powerstream.com/dc6.htm

or this,

http://www.parts-express.com/universal- ... e--265-010

or this,

http://www.batteryspace.com/dc-dcregula ... 0121a.aspx

all of which show a higher MA than the existing 120v power supply output.

I'm going to try to find one that will work in person next time I'm in town. Being able to operate the device while in a vehicle will be very helpful.

This is the device I want to be able to use in a vehicle,

http://www.braceshop.com/breg-polar-car ... fgodg7gK4Q

KiwiKev · Post by **KiwiKev** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 11:12 pm

You need a DC to DC converter Rated at least 1 AMP
If you hooked it up to a car battery it would draw what it draws and the dc to dc converter would also use up some current, probably as heat.

However the battery charger will have a very rough voltage. It could benefit from putting a high value capacitor (5000mfd) in parallel with the (+ and -) terminals. This will smooth the voltage a bit. A bad battery charger will have a DC voltage which looks like this ^^^^^^^^ with lots of peaks. You don't want to use a cheap power supply on medical widgets. A good supply will look like -------------------, nice and flat DC. A cheap supply will develop more peaks as more current is drawn. As for fuses - a 600mA fuse (If such a thing exists)

The device above would work fine, I guess it is switcheable. But smooth that voltage out if you need to.

Where are you intending to use the medical widget?

Both your suggestions are fine but my experience is that if you get the detachable plug around the wrong way you will blow up your medical widget.

The two devices which plug into the cigarette lighter are DC to DC converters already.

On the road I use a cheap AC Inverter like this

http://www.parts-express.com/tripp-lite ... r--125-200

You would just plug your 120V AC/9V adapter into this. It will work fine.

FWiedner · Post by **FWiedner** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 11:45 pm

Is the original 120VAC-6VDC power supply bad? If so, contact the manufacturer for a correct or suitable replacement part.

If you value the device, don't jury-rig a replacement.

The excess current on the DC-DC replacement supply you propose will eventually cook the input power circuitry on your device.

I agree with KiwiKev. Buy a 12VDC-120VAC inverter for your car and use the original and appropriate 120VAC-6VDC power supply. A fuse is built into the inverter.

Oh... I have a degree AND 35+ years experience as an electronics geek.

Nate Kiowa Jones · Post by **Nate Kiowa Jones** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 1:03 am

SteveR wrote:
jhrosier wrote:
SteveR wrote:...Yes, the amperage is very important, the voltage will not burn it up, its the amperage that burn things up. If you go over amperage, you will burn what ever you are using up.
Steve,

Please don't take this personally, but I actually do have a degree in this stuff, and you are precisely wrong.

Jack
I = V/R. Current measured by Amperage, is what causes Mosfet components for burn up. So, please explain how, too much current, does not cause circuits to burn up? If to much amperage wasn't a problem, then why do they design circuits with fuses? (There are many other components that are affected by too much current also, not just limited by Mosfet, they just come to mind right now.)

Steve

Nope, jhrosier is right. The output amperage of the power supply needs to be able to supply at least the amount of amperage the device will draw. The device plugged into it is only going to draw the amperage it requires at a given voltage. If the supply has more capacity it won't have any effect.

roughcreek · Post by **roughcreek** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 4:56 am

Yup, agree with Nate.

92&94 · Post by **92&94** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 9:51 am

roughcreek wrote:Yup, agree with Nate.

Same here, jhrosier, Nate, et al have the general rule spot on. There are exceptions to general rules, but those exceptions do not disprove the rule.

If I remember correctly, it is the field effect part of a mosfet that allows it to draw as much current as there is - making it atypical among semiconductors. Physics 110 was about 20 years back though, so I wouldn't even bet a drink on my recollection.

I am confused though - OP talks about 6v, and others about 9v? Don't drive a 6v device with a 9v supply.
These days there are tons of cool little DC-DC solid state dealies that will get you what you want as long as your supply puts out enough current, as Kiwikev explains in more detail.

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 11:14 am

Malamute wrote:The difference I was concerned about is the MA. The existing power supply is 120v input, with 6v 600mA ouput.

This is the device I want to be able to use in a vehicle,

http://www.braceshop.com/breg-polar-car ... fgodg7gK4Q

Hi,
Is that a typo about the 120v?
I have to say again that it is VERY important to match the correct Voltage and AMPERAGE, I don't care what others say, you WILL burn up your electronics by over powering them, via too much current, measured in amperage.

If you have a DC converter in your car plug it in to that.
http://www.amazon.com/PowerLine-90366-1 ... b_title_ce

I did a quick check and didn't see much for 12v DC to 6V DC 600ma output.

Steve

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 11:17 am

Or just get the DC inverter for your car and plug in the device, much esier than getting the wrong power supply and burning up your device.

Steve

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 11:24 am

Nate Kiowa Jones wrote:
SteveR wrote:
jhrosier wrote:
SteveR wrote:...Yes, the amperage is very important, the voltage will not burn it up, its the amperage that burn things up. If you go over amperage, you will burn what ever you are using up.
Steve,

Please don't take this personally, but I actually do have a degree in this stuff, and you are precisely wrong.

Jack
I = V/R. Current measured by Amperage, is what causes Mosfet components for burn up. So, please explain how, too much current, does not cause circuits to burn up? If to much amperage wasn't a problem, then why do they design circuits with fuses? (There are many other components that are affected by too much current also, not just limited by Mosfet, they just come to mind right now.)

Steve

Nope, jhrosier is right. The output amperage of the power supply needs to be able to supply at least the amount of amperage the device will draw. The device plugged into it is only going to draw the amperage it requires at a given voltage. If the supply has more capacity it won't have any effect.

OK, then why do manufacturers spend billion on power supplies, when all you say you need to do is just plug your device in to any power supply, and the device itself is self regulating? LOL.
I don't know many self regulating devices out there, I do know that adding to much current, will burn up electronic and all sorts of electric devices.
(I am not an engineer or anything like that, just 30 years working with all sorts of electronics)

Steve

rbertalotto · Post by **rbertalotto** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 12:01 pm

Steve, please stop it. You are mistaken. A car battery can have 500 amps yet you can connect your CB radio to it which draws 2 amps at most. As long as the PS outputs more amps than needed, you are good to go. All electronics are indeed self current regulating.
To much voltage will do damage. Not too much amperage.

flatnose · Post by **flatnose** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 12:24 pm

Match the voltage. The amps don't matter. An appliance will only draw as many amps as it needs.
An example. Plug in 1x100 watt light bulb into your household circuit, and turn it on. 110v AC x 0.9 Amps = 100WATTS. Now ask yourself, what limits the bulb to only draw 0.9amps? There is nothing in the circuit to limit the amp draw except a fuse in the main fuse box. You cannot force the bulb to take more amps.
Appliances will draw the required amps they need to operate until it exceeds the fuse rating in the circuit.
Voltage can be forced upon an appliance, and spikes can cause damage. Low voltage is a major cause of burnt out appliances.

flatnose · Post by **flatnose** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 12:33 pm

Amperage. I remember the use of that incorrect terminology got most of us a clip round the ear during physics lessons.

92&94 · Post by **92&94** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 12:56 pm

SteveR wrote:
OK, then why do manufacturers spend billion on power supplies, when all you say you need to do is just plug your device in to any power supply, and the device itself is self regulating? LOL.
I don't know many self regulating devices out there, I do know that adding to much current, will burn up electronic and all sorts of electric devices.
(I am not an engineer or anything like that, just 30 years working with all sorts of electronics)

Steve

Most devices are more effectively self regulating than you think.

I believe you are applying the properties of a single class of semiconductor more broadly than is accurate.

Maybe start reading here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Field-effect_transistor

EDIT: fixed quotes

92&94 · Post by **92&94** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 1:17 pm

SteveR wrote:
jhrosier wrote:
SteveR wrote:...Yes, the amperage is very important, the voltage will not burn it up, its the amperage that burn things up. If you go over amperage, you will burn what ever you are using up.
Steve,

Please don't take this personally, but I actually do have a degree in this stuff, and you are precisely wrong.

Jack
I = V/R. Current measured by Amperage, is what causes Mosfet components for burn up. So, please explain how, too much current, does not cause circuits to burn up? If to much amperage wasn't a problem, then why do they design circuits with fuses? (There are many other components that are affected by too much current also, not just limited by Mosfet, they just come to mind right now.)

Steve

Ok, maybe look at this another way. Most devices have what is effectively fixed resistance. That is why fuses and circuit breakers work at all, because when things are working within their designed parameters they do not draw as much current as is available. If they did, you could not use a fuse for circuit protection.

Leave the volume alone on your stereo and it will not change the resistance that it's power supply sees. If the R is constant, I is also fixed for a given voltage. Lower the voltage and you lower the current, raise the voltage and the current goes up. This is why putting 24 V to a 12 V device will usually toast a device.

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 1:29 pm

Sorry I was trying to help out somebody with a question, since you all know electronics, I will just go away, but at least I tried to help the guy who asked a question.
This board is seriously going down hill, when insulting people trying to help answer a question, maybe time to go.

Steve

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 1:52 pm

I dont feel like sending PM's and emails to all the experts here, so I copied one and will post for all to see and opine.

Current is what does
the damage, Ohms Law proves it. Think of a pipe, the water is the voltage,
and the size of the pipe is the resistance, the pressure of the water is
the current, so if you have a million gallons of water(voltage) to put in
the pipe, pressure(amperage) the size of the pipe (resistance)will dictate
how much water it can hold, so if you turn up the pressure(current), the
pipe carries the water(voltage), then if too much pressure(current)the pipe
fails.
So, please tell me how, if you over pressurize a pipe, and it fails, does
that men the pipe is self regulating?
Why do the engineers put fuses into circuits? If self regulating then fuses
would not be needed.

Steve

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 2:05 pm

rbertalotto wrote:Steve, please stop it. You are mistaken. A car battery can have 500 amps yet you can connect your CB radio to it which draws 2 amps at most. As long as the PS outputs more amps than needed, you are good to go. All electronics are indeed self current regulating.
To much voltage will do damage. Not too much amperage.

Ok, so lets see, a CB is designed for the 12V DC automotive circuit, the car battery does not put out a continuous 500 amps, that is cold cranking rate, which is for short bursts, and is shunted from the main electrical system of the automobile, if the 500 amps were let through the all of the electronics connected to said system would burn up, again anything connected to the 12V DC car battery is already designed to work on that battery, so the question was asked about a 6V DC 600ma device, again it it not designed for a 12V DC automotive system like the CB, apples to oranges.

Please enlighten me, because obviously I should "stop it".
By the way, what did you post here to answer the OP question, or just to troll and attack me?

Steve

92&94 · Post by **92&94** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 2:16 pm

SteveR wrote:I dont feel like sending PM's and emails to all the experts here, so I copied one and will post for all to see and opine.

Current is what does
the damage, Ohms Law proves it. Think of a pipe, the water is the voltage,
and the size of the pipe is the resistance, the pressure of the water is
the current, so if you have a million gallons of water(voltage) to put in
the pipe, pressure(amperage) the size of the pipe (resistance)will dictate
how much water it can hold, so if you turn up the pressure(current), the
pipe carries the water(voltage), then if too much pressure(current)the pipe
fails.
So, please tell me how, if you over pressurize a pipe, and it fails, does
that men the pipe is self regulating?
Why do the engineers put fuses into circuits? If self regulating then fuses
would not be needed.

Steve

In your example you have the pressure and volume reversed. In the typical pipe example voltage is the pressure and current is the volume. At least that is how I learned it.

By your logic fuses would not work. A fuse is just a wire or similar conductor of very specific size that melts when it carries more than the rated power. You size the fuse for the circuit voltage and expected current draw + some safety factor (like turning up the volume on your stereo). If it worked as you claimed, you would need a very specific fuse value, down to the milliamp probably.

EDIT:
Fuses are installed to protect the circuit, not to protect the load on the circuit. That is why you have a 3 amp fuse on that CB (a load) but it may be hooked up to a 5 amp circuit that also powers other devices (other loads). If it worked as you claim, all fuses in a car would blow all the time, as soon as you powered the circuit. The reason they do not is that the circuit resistances (the loads) are effectively fixed so the current is simply proportional to the applied voltage - fix the voltage at 12v and the current is also fixed. Change the volume of the stereo or CB and you've lowered the resistance slightly, allowing more current flow at the fixed voltage. The part that you may be missing is that the resistance of the load is not influenced in any significant way by either the applied voltage or the current that flows through it.

There are exceptions to this - those FET's you mentioned - or the heat of a poorly engineered circuit causing resistance to drop, but those exceptions do not negate the rule, they are predicted by it.

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 2:18 pm

flatnose wrote:Match the voltage. The amps don't matter. An appliance will only draw as many amps as it needs.
An example. Plug in 1x100 watt light bulb into your household circuit, and turn it on. 110v AC x 0.9 Amps = 100WATTS. Now ask yourself, what limits the bulb to only draw 0.9amps? There is nothing in the circuit to limit the amp draw except a fuse in the main fuse box. You cannot force the bulb to take more amps.
Appliances will draw the required amps they need to operate until it exceeds the fuse rating in the circuit.
Voltage can be forced upon an appliance, and spikes can cause damage. Low voltage is a major cause of burnt out appliances.

I was not talking about AC appliances, totally different animal then sensitive low voltage DC logic circuits.

Steve

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 2:24 pm

92&94 wrote:
SteveR wrote:I dont feel like sending PM's and emails to all the experts here, so I copied one and will post for all to see and opine.

Current is what does
the damage, Ohms Law proves it. Think of a pipe, the water is the voltage,
and the size of the pipe is the resistance, the pressure of the water is
the current, so if you have a million gallons of water(voltage) to put in
the pipe, pressure(amperage) the size of the pipe (resistance)will dictate
how much water it can hold, so if you turn up the pressure(current), the
pipe carries the water(voltage), then if too much pressure(current)the pipe
fails.
So, please tell me how, if you over pressurize a pipe, and it fails, does
that men the pipe is self regulating?
Why do the engineers put fuses into circuits? If self regulating then fuses
would not be needed.

Steve
In your example you have the pressure and volume reversed. In the typical pipe example voltage is the pressure and current is the volume. At least that is how I learned it.

By your logic fuses would not work. A fuse is just a wire or similar conductor of very specific size that melts when it carries more than the rated power. You size the fuse for the circuit voltage and expected current draw + some safety factor (like turning up the volume on your stereo). If it worked as you claimed, you would need a very specific fuse value, down to the milliamp probably.

Please stop with your wrong assumptions and I did not reverse anything(water=voltage, pressure=current or amperage, and pipe=resistance), it a very simplified example of how electricity works, not the design schematic for the OP's electronic device.
But, you are correct about the fuses, they are milli amp ratings in many circuits, but more common use is with diodes and varistors for high voltage and current protections.

Steve

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 2:30 pm

flatnose wrote:Amperage. I remember the use of that incorrect terminology got most of us a clip round the ear during physics lessons.

I guess the clip to ear still didn't help, you still are wrong.
Current is measure in Amps or Amperage.

Steve

92&94 · Post by **92&94** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 2:35 pm

Voltage = pressure, current = flow in the traditional simple example you related. Go look it up if you like, then post a reference if you find that I am wrong. I trust my recollection of the analogy over yours.

Ever notice that all car stereos and stuff like CB's use a 3 amp fuse? Think that they all draw exactly 3 amps all the time? I sure don't.

92&94 · Post by **92&94** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 2:37 pm

It's been fun, but I have some actual work to do this afternoon. I'll be back after work.

flatnose · Post by **flatnose** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 3:27 pm

SteveR wrote:
flatnose wrote:Amperage. I remember the use of that incorrect terminology got most of us a clip round the ear during physics lessons.
I guess the clip to ear still didn't help, you still are wrong.
Current is measure in Amps or Amperage.

Steve

Current is measured in amperes, or amps for short. The term amperage has no use and is not required.

rbertalotto · Post by **rbertalotto** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 3:58 pm

Please enlighten me, because obviously I should "stop it".
By the way, what did you post here to answer the OP question, or just to troll and attack me?

Steve, no one "attacked" you. We are just trying to get the correct information to the OP. He asked a simple question that was easily answered. Until someone suggested that a PS with more current than needed would damage his device. This is just plain incorrect. We are just trying to help a fellow with a question. Nothing more...nothing less.

rbertalotto · Post by **rbertalotto** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 4:10 pm

I have a medical widget that uses a power adapter from 120v ac and drops it to 6v dc 600ma.

What I'm confused about......is why did folks start talking about 9V

You can use a power supply that is rated for more amps as long as it Is 9VDC.
So a 9V/1000MA or 9V/1500MA supply would work, a 9V/350MA would probably fail.

Note that you'll need a 12 volt to 9 volt adapter.

Now this could really get the OP in trouble.........To clarify, I believe he needs a 6V adapter with at least 600ma available

Post by **AmBraCol** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 4:40 pm

Entertaining explanation (along with personal demonstration) of the effects of Volts vs Amps...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XDf2nhfxVzg

92&94 · Post by **92&94** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 5:35 pm

92&94 wrote:Voltage = pressure, current = flow in the traditional simple example you related. Go look it up if you like, then post a reference if you find that I am wrong. I trust my recollection of the analogy over yours.

Ever notice that all car stereos and stuff like CB's use a 3 amp fuse? Think that they all draw exactly 3 amps all the time? I sure don't.

OK, back from work. Here's a link:
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hb ... atcir.html

Here's their diagram of the water analogy, for any who don't want to click on the link:

watdc.gif

Pressure = voltage
volume or flow = current
taken further, electrons = water molecules

jhrosier · Post by **jhrosier** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 9:21 pm

rbertalotto wrote:
I have a medical widget that uses a power adapter from 120v ac and drops it to 6v dc 600ma.
What I'm confused about......is why did folks start talking about 9V.....

Roy,

The original post said 9v. It was subsequently edited.
( see see the quote in SteveR's first post on this thread.)

SMAKN® Dc/dc Converter 12v Step Down to 6V/3A Power Supply Module
Price: $6.90

http://www.amazon.com/SMAKN%C2%AE-Conve ... +converter

Jack

Malamute · Post by **Malamute** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 9:35 pm

Correct, I mistakenly said 9v in my first post instead of 6v. Had to get the magnifying glasses to see it again in good light.

Thanks for all the information. I've been away and just got back on a computer. I am going to contact the company and see if they have a 12v power source or what they recommend for one. The original power supply is for house current, I want one I can use while in a vehicle.

draperjojo · Post by **draperjojo** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 10:55 pm

jhrosier wrote:
SteveR wrote:...Yes, the amperage is very important, the voltage will not burn it up, its the amperage that burn things up. If you go over amperage, you will burn what ever you are using up.
Steve,

Please don't take this personally, but I actually do have a degree in this stuff, and you are precisely wrong.

Jack

+1

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Thu Oct 15, 2015 7:28 am

I guess I have to reply, sometimes when being very familiar with something we just assume people understand the basics of what we do so often that it is automatic to us.

My point in saying the amperage, or amps for short,(because some people don't know the words are the same, "amps" is short for "amperage".) is the measurement for current, which I use everyday in the "ampmeter" portion of my "multimeter" , and it tells me if current is flowing in a circuit and what the amount of current is, which is given in "amps".

Now, I said to the OP that the VOLTAGE and AMPERAGE need to be the same, because using the same VOLTAGE, but increasing the AMPERAGE will cause most likely the device to burn up.

Then I was told I was wrong, I gave some quick examples, but was taken to task by others, I may have not gotten the analogy perfect about the water and pipe, but I was assuming that the same VOLTAGE but different AMPERAGE, like I had first posted. I did not look up like I was told to do the see the text book definition, just what my old brain remembers, and I am correct about my recollections. I dare anybody to prove I am wrong when I say the SAME VOLTAGE BUT INCREASING THE AMPERAGE WILL BURN UP LOGIC CIRCUITS AND OTHER ELECTRICAL DEVICES.

It used to be a great board to ask questions on here, but the azzholes have seemed to come to roost and try with semantics and just plain bulls@#t, attack people who are knowledgeable and trying to help somebody not ruin expensive electronics.

I also will say, if anybody posts replies, without explaining how and why people are wrong with their "free" advice, then don't waste my time and others time on the board, because it shows your ignorance and quite frankly does nothing but make the ones who post with helpful information to get lost in all the bulls$%t.

Steve

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Thu Oct 15, 2015 3:00 pm

Did the manufacturer ever say they have a 12 volt unit available ?

Malamute · Post by **Malamute** » Thu Oct 15, 2015 5:12 pm

They have an AA battery pack available but no 12v supply.

Further investigation showed an Ma range of 600 to 1000. I'll see if I can find a supply in that output range.

SteveR · Post by **SteveR** » Thu Oct 15, 2015 5:36 pm

Malamute wrote:They have an AA battery pack available but no 12v supply.

Further investigation showed an Ma range of 600 to 1000. I'll see if I can find a supply in that output range.

Hi,

I got home and looked around, this should work. Its 500ma, which is slightly under the 600ma, but it is adjustable to 6V and 500ma should power your device without burning any of the electronics up.
Looking at the actual picture, it shoow 0-800ma, which should be fine, it also is regulating,as in self regulating, so you should have no problems with it.
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Adapter ... B00K2FGTX0

Steve

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Thu Oct 15, 2015 10:36 pm

I just stopped by the Pilot truck stop. They have a,1500 watt inverter for $129.00

Post by **AmBraCol** » Fri Oct 16, 2015 7:44 am

In spite of a certain poster's assertion that he's the only one who knows what he's talking about, I've never seen anything burn up because of to much amperage, but HAVE seen things burnt up from too many volts. I've also seen things NOT WORK when given to LITTLE amperage. A simple example is the first USB wall charger I ever bought. USB is USB, correct? Nope. Some of those wall chargers turn out way too little amperage to charge certain types of phones/tablets/gizmos. My latest purchase in that area (USB wall charger) is one that turns out 2.1 amps per outlet and it has 5 outlets. It charges everything from my wife's Note Pro 12.2 to the little portable MP3 player (rated for an input of 1.X amps) with no problems.

Another example is a keyboard we have. The original 12 Volt 1.5 Amp supply died. I picked up a 12 Volt 2 Amp supply downtown and it's still going strong. Having more amps on tap means there is more current available to flow where it needs to go. If it's the correct voltage and AT LEAST the amperage required for the apparatus.

Trying to run your 600 MA gizmo on only 500 MA will cause it to not function correctly, if at all. Your best bet would be to get a 12 volt adapter from the manufacturer or to plug it into a 12-120 volt inverter. Then you'll be able to simply plug it in in your car, unplug it, take it into the house or wherever and plug it in again.

Richardx · Post by **Richardx** » Fri Oct 16, 2015 8:52 am

In case everything goes wrong this will fix it:http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm

Nate Kiowa Jones · Post by **Nate Kiowa Jones** » Fri Oct 16, 2015 2:07 pm

Richardx wrote:In case everything goes wrong this will fix it:http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm

I bet someone will actually try to order it too.