Stock Fit - Marlin 1894

[deerwhacker444]

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Probably a stupid question, but is there any reason this stock wouldn't fit any of the new 1894's out there. Aren't all 1894 stocks the same except for cosmetics.

http://www.forthehunt.com/Auction/ViewI ... m=96601215

[Dakota7]

It should fit any of the newer 94s. You might need to relieve a little wood here or there or use a little acuglass for a perfect fit. I usually like to relieve a little wood at the very back of the tang, especially if you use hotter loads, insures against stock cracking.

[Iron_Marshal]

I love how pretty the stocks are, but I would be concerned about the stock cracking. Look again where the stock meets the rifle at the very front. The "pretty" swirl on the right side of the stock WILL make a weak point in the wood. Can I say it WILL break, no, but it is a cause for concern.

[Leverdude]

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Probably a stupid question, but is there any reason this stock wouldn't fit any of the new 1894's out there. Aren't all 1894 stocks the same except for cosmetics.

http://www.forthehunt.com/Auction/ViewI ... m=96601215

Not just 94's, it'll fit any straight grip Marlin levergun. 336, 1894, 1895, 444, whatever.

[Iron_Marshal]

Any "stockmen" here that care to take on my claim that the "featured" stock in question may break at the point of connection point between metal to wood?

[marlinman93]

It wont break if it isn't overtightened! Any stock with a close fit at the back of the tang is not a problem. What causes the stock to split out is not close tolerances, but rather a heavy hand on the screwdriver when they tighten the tang screw.

[gary rice]

It wont break if it isn't overtightened! Any stock with a close fit at the back of the tang is not a problem. What causes the stock to split out is not close tolerances, but rather a heavy hand on the screwdriver when they tighten the tang screw.

i agree, if a close fit caused wood ruptures it would not be advisable to glass bed anything. someone out at the range told me the same thing when i was in the process of fitting the buttstock to my 1895 marlin. i didnt pay too much attention to it and i havent had any problems not to say i wont though. i glass bedded the tangs all the way to the rear so i have about 100% contact.

[Leverdude]

Any "stockmen" here that care to take on my claim that the "featured" stock in question may break at the point of connection point between metal to wood?

I see what your talking about but dont think it'll break off. If theres space there or uneveness I'd bed that area. This way you get full contact to spread out the shock of recoil. If it was touching there & not touching somewhere else it might bust off.

I'v been told for a long time to leave a small gap behind the tang & get the reciever fit perfect. This way the shock is at the front & not at the end of he tang acting like a wedge. That said I strive to have no gap but if I end up settleing I'll settle for a gap at the end of the tang rather than at the front.

I'm in love with acraglass now that I'm not scared of glueing guns together anymore.

[gary rice]

Any "stockmen" here that care to take on my claim that the "featured" stock in question may break at the point of connection point between metal to wood?

I see what your talking about but dont think it'll break off. If theres space there or uneveness I'd bed that area. This way you get full contact to spread out the shock of recoil. If it was touching there & not touching somewhere else it might bust off.

I'v been told for a long time to leave a small gap behind the tang & get the reciever fit perfect. This way the shock is at the front & not at the end of he tang acting like a wedge. That said I strive to have no gap but if I end up settleing I'll settle for a gap at the end of the tang rather than at the front.

I'm in love with acraglass now that I'm not scared of glueing guns together anymore.

lol, sounds like me leverdude, i used acraglass two times and like the way it works, first time i was in panick mode worried the stock was cemented to the action. now after 3 differnet jobs i feel pretty comfortable now. the recent job i used pro bed 2000 and it seems to work well also.

[Leverdude]

I think its likely any epoxy will work nice. I'v used JB quick weld for small things that I didn't want to wait a day to cure.

[gary rice]

I think its likely any epoxy will work nice. I'v used JB quick weld for small things that I didn't want to wait a day to cure.

does the release agent work ok with that too? i mean with the jb quick weld?

[marlinman93]

I never use the release agent that comes with Acraglass bedding gel. It's messy, and eaves that residue that I don't care for.
I use simple grease, and modeler's clay. Fill the areas that I don't want epoxy in, then grease up the contact areas lightly. Then I mask off the wood and metal exteriors, and apply the epoxy. I wipe of most of the excess that oozes out imediately, and then set it aside. After around 3-4 hours I pull the stock, so I know it's not fully set, just in case there's an issue. I immediately put it back on the gun once I know it's free, and let it set overnight to fully cure.
The next day I complete the sanding and start applyiong exterior finish.

[Leverdude]

I think its likely any epoxy will work nice. I'v used JB quick weld for small things that I didn't want to wait a day to cure.

does the release agent work ok with that too? i mean with the jb quick weld?

Yup.

I'd thought about grease but was afraid it might effect the acra glass cureing.
If Vall says its ok tho you can take it to the bank.