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All these posts about cap & ball revolvers have been great! Got me to thinking. I've always used crisco grease over the ball when loading a C&B revolver. Problem is that if it is hot, it is not thick enough. Even when cooler, the grease over melts after the first shot or two. What combination do you all use that is "hardy" enough to stand up to warm weather?
I know - use a felt wad, and properly-fitting caps, as well as the correct diameter ball (where it is shaved a bit when loaded) and you shouldn't need the grease. Still, I don't think it hurts to be extra cautious!
Grease helps keep fouling soft.. i prefer Bore Butter, but there are other concoctions that probably work just as well... Anything soft enough to apply easily is going to get blown out of the chamber to some extent..
Regards
Buck
Life has a way of making the foreseeable that which never happens, and the unforeseeable, that which your life becomes...
I use my pair of Old Armys for training CAS newbies and might fire 200 rounds in a session.
These are my projectiles of choice
I cast the Big Lubes 6 at a time and run them through a Lubrisizer to fill the groove with a mix of beesway/Crisco/Canola oil
(for Brits that's beeswax/Cookeen/rapeseed oil)
No extra grease or wads needed and never had a chain fire. Still using the original nipples and Remington #11 caps.
Other CAS shooters I know who use round balls just roll them in liquid alox. That seems to work provided the ball is the correct size.
Buck Elliott wrote:Grease helps keep fouling soft.. i prefer Bore Butter, but there are other concoctions that probably work just as well... Anything soft enough to apply easily is going to get blown out of the chamber to some extent..
Bore Butter here too. It even comes in "pine scent" (or did anyway).
I also prefer to shoot the LEE R.E.A.L bullet (easy to load, nice lube grooves) more than round ball.
C2N14... because life is not energetic enough. מנא, מנא, תקל, ופרסין Daniel 5:25-28... Got 7.62?
Not Depressed enough yet? Go read National Geographic, July 1976 Gott und Gewehr mit uns!
I used Crisco most of the time but Bore Butter when I could get it.
Crisco (Cookeen) does get very messy in hot weather and I guess South Carolina gets a lot warmer than I'm used to here in the UK......
Whatever you do always give 100%........... unless you are donating blood.
Got tired of all the mess... experimented with various original type grease groove conicals...no accuracy there... finally found and still use a SAECO 180gr 45 cal SWC bullet lubed w/50-50 NRA formula Alox (nary a chain fire ever)... accuracy excellent... It knocks over the 100yd Rams on the pistol course ....I use a slightly modded Euroarms SS 1858
The same bullet worked great in my 1911
"IT IS MY OPINION, AND I AM CORRECT SO DON'T ARGUE, THE 99 SAVAGE IS THE FINEST RIFLE EVER MADE IN AMERICA."
WIL TERRY
I have been using Frog Lube Paste a new CLP invented by a SEAL I meet at a work site all food grad material (He ate some to prove it) helped clean up GREATLY.http://froglube.com/
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I have been using Frog Lube Paste a new CLP invented by a SEAL I meet at a work site all food grad material (He ate some to prove it) helped clean up GREATLY. http://froglube.com/
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[How would wheel bearing grease work???*]
It all wants to migrate forward out of the chamber mouths... Grease groove bullets like perry owens posted a pic of is what solves the chain fire/lube mess problem... I've never read any instructions published in olden times by Colts that ever mentioned covering the chamber mouths with anything to prevent chain fires... I guess they just lived with it and probably didn't happen that often anyway...
"IT IS MY OPINION, AND I AM CORRECT SO DON'T ARGUE, THE 99 SAVAGE IS THE FINEST RIFLE EVER MADE IN AMERICA."
WIL TERRY
BlaineG wrote:They are sure proud of that FrogStuff.....
The fact they can toss around the "SEAL" think in the marketing is good for a 25% increase over similar products. Actually I've heard it's good stuff, but the mall ninja types on the various AR forums insist on using whatever "works in the sandbox". Price isn't an issue.
Ysabel,
My favorite lube is "beeswax" as found in toilet bowl wax rings. I doubt it's ever been near a bee but it is a good black powder lube and will stand quite a bit of warmth without migrating down into your holster. When I find them on sale at Lowes or Home Depot I buy up a bunch to stash. You used to be able to find the ones that were just wax but all the ones I see now days have a plastic insert that's hard to deal with. It's soft enough to just wipe a little into the mouth of the cylinder.
I use this same wax to which I add a little olive oil in an old electric percolator then just pour the mixture into my luber/sizer. I also make 1/8" sheets of it for grease "cookies" to go under the bullets in my black powder cartridge loads. Sometimes with a 1/8" Circle Fly wad over the powder. These cookies are only necessary in longer barreled rifles to get enough lube to last the length of the barrel and get that star on the muzzle.
M. M. Wright, Sheriff, Green county Arkansas (1860)
Currently living my eternal life.
NRA Life
SASS
ITSASS
Nath wrote:Errrrrmmm.....if you are loading ball.....why not add the lube before the ball on a card wad or such.
If you are using felt wads why not just add a drop of olive oil.
N
Lube before the ball would soak the powder if it were warm....
Between ball and card/felt.
Beeswax and olive oil can be made stiff as you like!
Be sides any fibre or leather wads I use don't soak the powder even with just olive oil on them!
All the photo's you guy's see of my frontstuffers all had lube of oil or home made grease between shot/ball and powder! Ok ok if I think it is going to be loaded some time then a thin card goes down first. Last time a gun was charged thus it went off just fine after two months waiting!
These guns are the simplest forms of shooting, heck the Mrs has all you need in the kitchen for goodness sakes!
Nath wrote:Errrrrmmm.....if you are loading ball.....why not add the lube before the ball on a card wad or such.
If you are using felt wads why not just add a drop of olive oil.
N
Lube before the ball would soak the powder if it were warm....
Between ball and card/felt.
Beeswax and olive oil can be made stiff as you like!
Be sides any fibre or leather wads I use don't soak the powder even with just olive oil on them!
All the photo's you guy's see of my frontstuffers all had lube of oil or home made grease between shot/ball and powder! Ok ok if I think it is going to be loaded some time then a thin card goes down first. Last time a gun was charged thus it went off just fine after two months waiting!
These guns are the simplest forms of shooting, heck the Mrs has all you need in the kitchen for goodness sakes!
N.
I stand corrected
The Rotten Fruit Always Hits The Ground First
Proud Life Member Of:
NRA
Second Amendment Foundation
Citizens Committee For The Right To Keep And Bear Arms
DAV
perry owens wrote:I use my pair of Old Armys for training CAS newbies and might fire 200 rounds in a session.
These are my projectiles of choice
I cast the Big Lubes 6 at a time and run them through a Lubrisizer to fill the groove with a mix of beesway/Crisco/Canola oil
(for Brits that's beeswax/Cookeen/rapeseed oil)
No extra grease or wads needed and never had a chain fire. Still using the original nipples and Remington #11 caps.
Other CAS shooters I know who use round balls just roll them in liquid alox. That seems to work provided the ball is the correct size.
Perry Owens
Perry, where did you get that mold? Is it the 210-grain .45-cal Big Lube 6-cavity mold?
Yes, it's this one http://www.biglube.com/BulletMolds.aspx ... ebfdaba982
It works in Old Armys and Remington clones but I don't know about others as it drops at about 0.457in. If you use a lubrisizer I suppose you could squeeze it down to 0.454.
Got me to thinking. I've always used crisco grease over the ball when loading a C&B revolver. Problem is that if it is hot, it is not thick enough. Even when cooler, the grease over melts after the first shot or two. What combination do you all use that is "hardy" enough to stand up to warm weather?
Actually I've heard it's good stuff, but the mall ninja types on the various AR forums insist on using whatever "works in the sandbox". Price isn't an issue.
