M92 ejector and spring...

[jamesgpobog]

I have done some work to the ejector and spring, polishing the ejector, rod, and replacing the spring with a suitable hardware store one. A couple questions...

1. The edges of the body of the ejector are rather sharp. Not burrs, but just sharp 90* angles. Can/should these be chamfered?

2. The spring I put in (from hardware store) is thinner wire thus weaker, and I cut it to match the length of the stock spring. Is it proper to cut another coil or two off to bring the ejector into the bolt a little more?

[Malamute]

I don't know for sure, but I think you may have problems shortening the spring more. "Bringing it into the bolt" is going to leave it floating without tension once the spring is past its extension. Or did you mean it wont fully go back into the bolt when a round is chambered?

I'd be somewhat leery of a hardware store spring for use in a gun. Hardware store springs may not be of the same quality as a gun spring, it may not last as long. I'd just be aware of that and think to have a look at it now and them to confirm its giving good tension.

Were you having trouble with the gun, or is this intended as an improvement?

I would gently deburr sharp edges.

[Nate Kiowa Jones]

I have done some work to the ejector and spring, polishing the ejector, rod, and replacing the spring with a suitable hardware store one. A couple questions...

1. The edges of the body of the ejector are rather sharp. Not burrs, but just sharp 90* angles. Can/should these be chamfered?

2. The spring I put in (from hardware store) is thinner wire thus weaker, and I cut it to match the length of the stock spring. Is it proper to cut another coil or two off to bring the ejector into the bolt a little more?

That spring should be OK if you verify that it functions. To check function assemble outside the gun, the ejector/spring/bushing into the bolt and then assemble/pin the lever in place. Now, while swinging the lever through it's travel push on the ejector to make sure it's not binding anywhere through the levers stroke. If it does bind, take it apart and look for shiny spots on the ejector and polish just these areas.
Resist the urge to cut this spring or the factory spring. This sometimes causes the gun not to eject properly. This is because the spring does not have much travel to start with and if it’s cut over time and because we store the guns with the action closed they tend to take a set and no longer work.
There are some on-line instructions that tell you to cut a coil off but I can't tell you how many have ended up here because they eventually fail to eject. The first sign of a problem is it ejects all but the last empty. This is because all before the last had a fresh round under the empty to help push it out.

[jamesgpobog]

To both, thanks for the replies.

The spring/ejector function fine now, I see what you mean about giving the ejector a 'float' past spring length. I'll leaver it at stock length. Having no trouble with the gun, this is part of a 'slick-up', and I can work the action now, including cocking the hammer, with my little finger...

I will watch for any ejection problems. I have already polished the ejector and rod with 600/1000. It's just that those sharp edges I think seem to catch a bit if the ejector rotates a little. the body is not at all a tight fit in the bolt.