Identifying lever guns
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Identifying lever guns
I'm somewhat new to lever guns, but I plan to stay with 'em. I shoot Lever Action Silhouette and am looking for another rifle. It has been suggested that I find one without barrel bands, for example a 94 Canadian Centennial or a Teddy Roosevelt Commemorative.
When I look at the on-line sites a see a great many .30-30s - What description I can use to find only the rifles I'm interested in?
Thanks,
Michael
When I look at the on-line sites a see a great many .30-30s - What description I can use to find only the rifles I'm interested in?
Thanks,
Michael
Re: Identifying lever guns
"rifle, 24-26" barrel"
Don't sell yourself off on carbines as the regular rifles also have a mess of stuff hanging from the barrels to mess with your accuracy. On carbines, barrel bands can be relieved to shoot as well as rifles.
I know several guys in the silhouette game that prefer short rifles or carbines as the sights are easier for them to see. There is also less "barrel time" with the shorter barrels as we silhouette guys tend to use lower velocities so the bullets gets out of the barrel faster while we are trying to hold it steady, especially on those nasty turkeys.
I myself, prefer 20-22 inch barrels for small bore and pistol caliber silhouette and 24" for big bore.----6
Don't sell yourself off on carbines as the regular rifles also have a mess of stuff hanging from the barrels to mess with your accuracy. On carbines, barrel bands can be relieved to shoot as well as rifles.
I know several guys in the silhouette game that prefer short rifles or carbines as the sights are easier for them to see. There is also less "barrel time" with the shorter barrels as we silhouette guys tend to use lower velocities so the bullets gets out of the barrel faster while we are trying to hold it steady, especially on those nasty turkeys.

I myself, prefer 20-22 inch barrels for small bore and pistol caliber silhouette and 24" for big bore.----6
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Re: Identifying lever guns
I'll address the newer guns, rather than older (pre-war) ones. Some of the commemoratives "carbines" are in fact short rifles with 20" octagon barrels. The Canadian Centennials are one version of that, the "Classic" made in the later 60's is another. The Classics have pretty nice wood on them also, as do some of the other commemoratives. I still see some of the nice commemorative models priced pretty reasonably, in the $500-$600 range for NIB or near new.
If a book were available that had pictures of the various commemorative models, it would help identify which ones to look for.
The commemoratives don't get much respect, but I've had several, and liked them very well. The rifles with octagon barrels seem to shoot better than the average carbine. The short rifles (octagon barreled "carbines") should also. Some of the commemorative models came with quite nice wood, which in some cases if you bought even the blanks in that grade, would cost more than the entire gun. Some also have checkering, which I like quite a lot.
The Canadian Centennials were pretty plain, they look more like an ordinary older rifle than most commemoratives. The Buffalo Bills are OK, though with a few shiny parts. I swapped a few shiny parts for blued when I had one. Same for carriers, they are simple to swap for a forged one if it bothers you.
If a book were available that had pictures of the various commemorative models, it would help identify which ones to look for.
The commemoratives don't get much respect, but I've had several, and liked them very well. The rifles with octagon barrels seem to shoot better than the average carbine. The short rifles (octagon barreled "carbines") should also. Some of the commemorative models came with quite nice wood, which in some cases if you bought even the blanks in that grade, would cost more than the entire gun. Some also have checkering, which I like quite a lot.
The Canadian Centennials were pretty plain, they look more like an ordinary older rifle than most commemoratives. The Buffalo Bills are OK, though with a few shiny parts. I swapped a few shiny parts for blued when I had one. Same for carriers, they are simple to swap for a forged one if it bothers you.
"Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs even though checkered by failure, than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat." -Theodore Roosevelt-
Isnt it amazing how many people post without reading the thread?
Isnt it amazing how many people post without reading the thread?
Re: Identifying lever guns
If the issue is 'accuracy', read Paco's article on Accurizing the Levergun elsewhere on this site (in the 'Articles' section), and it may give you some ideas. (both those underlined above are LINKS)
A given gun can shoot very accurately even with a barrel-band, and some guns with them will be far more inherently accurate than ones without them.
It is all about repeatability, and sometimes the extra 'stuff' hanging on to and binding up with, the barrel, provides more rigidity, but if the heat of the barrel expands it and changes the dynamics, multi-shot repeatability can suffer. There are ways of dealing with that, however.
Stick with the guns you LIKE, and try to make them as accurate as possible. Remember it is usually about having FUN, making humane kills if hunting, and having the best accuracy you can within the parameters of your hobby/sport/preferences.
If you really really have to make repeatable sub-minute-of-angle hits at 200 yards, then ditch the levergun(s), but otherwise, just enjoy.
A given gun can shoot very accurately even with a barrel-band, and some guns with them will be far more inherently accurate than ones without them.
It is all about repeatability, and sometimes the extra 'stuff' hanging on to and binding up with, the barrel, provides more rigidity, but if the heat of the barrel expands it and changes the dynamics, multi-shot repeatability can suffer. There are ways of dealing with that, however.
Stick with the guns you LIKE, and try to make them as accurate as possible. Remember it is usually about having FUN, making humane kills if hunting, and having the best accuracy you can within the parameters of your hobby/sport/preferences.
If you really really have to make repeatable sub-minute-of-angle hits at 200 yards, then ditch the levergun(s), but otherwise, just enjoy.
It's 2025 - "Cutesy Time is OVER....!" [Dan Bongino]
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Re: Identifying lever guns
Another configuration to kep on the lookout for is the 1894-1994 Centennial commemorative. IIRC, it has a 26" bbl, but is ½round/½octagon and a half mag, which reduces forward weight.
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Griff,
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There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
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Re: Identifying lever guns
They have a lever on the bottom with a loop for your fingers, couldn't help myself




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Re: Identifying lever guns
The word Rifle rather than Carbine usually means no barrel bands and a better chance for consistent accuracy. There is always the exception to every rule though. Just a good place to start.
Re: Identifying lever guns
That's always bugged me, too, in the levergun world, because I thought regarding other types of firearms, a 'rifle' was the larger/longer size, whereas as 'carbine' was meant to be lighter and handier for use in tight quarters or when very active. Is that not the case...???Chuck 100 yd wrote:The word Rifle rather than Carbine usually means no barrel bands and a better chance for consistent accuracy. There is always the exception to every rule though. Just a good place to start.
It's 2025 - "Cutesy Time is OVER....!" [Dan Bongino]
Re: Identifying lever guns
check out this site, zip down to winchester [alphabetical], look at anything with 24" barrel or more.
[heck look at them all.]
http://www.cherrys.com/comminv.htm
good hunting. and welcome home.
[heck look at them all.]
http://www.cherrys.com/comminv.htm
good hunting. and welcome home.
careful what you wish for, you might just get it.
"BECAUSE I CAN"
"BECAUSE I CAN"
- Griff
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Re: Identifying lever guns
For a description take a look at: Winchester 94 Commemoratives. It gives a physical desciption of the features each commemorative has, and production numbers.pokey wrote:check out this site, zip down to winchester [alphabetical], look at anything with 24" barrel or more.
[heck look at them all.]
http://www.cherrys.com/comminv.htm
good hunting. and welcome home.
Griff,
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
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Re: Identifying lever guns
One of my grandson's has a 1973 Winchester 94 30-30 carbine. When I brought it home from the pawn shop I put a Williams 5d sight on it, we took it to the range to sight it in and the first two shots showed a hole and a half. That little carbine will do it over and over with any ammo. When a rig like that shoots two rounds that close from a cold barrel it's a keeper around here. We did not touch the barrel bands.
I don't see any reason to buy a different gun with out trying some things with yours first.
I don't see any reason to buy a different gun with out trying some things with yours first.
JerryB II Corinthians 3:17, Now the Lord is that Spirit: and where the Spirit of the Lord is, there is liberty.
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Re: Identifying lever guns
Thanks Pokey... this is what I wanted anyway: Winchester Commemorative Model 94 Teddy Roosevelt, 30/30 Lever Action Rifle With 26"
Michael
Michael
Re: Identifying lever guns
are ya sure about that Doc?If you really really have to make repeatable sub-minute-of-angle hits at 200 yards, then ditch the levergun(s), but otherwise, just enjoy.
what about 99s, BLRs, and 88s ? I think I've read of sub-minute-of-angle performance from those models...
