Sources of info on getting 1911's to feed better...?

[AJMD429]

Given the popularity of the 1911, I would assume there are lots of articles, YouTube videos, and other sources of information on getting one to feed that 'jams' excessively regardless of what brand or type magazine or ammo is used. Any recommendations as to good sources of such information...???

Since it's a cheapie 'generic' one, I'd rather take the risk of ruining it by trying to fix it myself than just spend a bunch of money having someone else do it, because part of the goal is to LEARN something in the process, plus I don't have the money to sink into it, or the need, since I've another quite functional 1911.

The bullets do the classic 'nose-dive' then stub-out on the frame/barrel gap, regardless of what magazine is used, and those magazines ALL function in several other 1911's. Polishing the barrel and frame ramps did nothing. I then took just a bit of material off to soften the sharp edges, but didn't want to take much off until I read more or could see some helpful videos on the topic.

I used to know a gunsmith who allegedly could make a 1911 feed an empty case, so I know they CAN be almost jam-proof. Unfortunately, this one isn't.

[MrMurphy]

Read everything and anything ever written by Hilton Yam.

He had a forum, now it's a blog (www.modernserviceweapons.com).

He's a SME on 1911s and has around 20+ years running an entire fleet of them for police work.


Larry Vickers comes at it from the military angle but he teaches, he doesn't really write.

[J Miller]

AJ,

As a person who has throated a number of 1911s and made one feed empty cases here is all I did.

First; check the feed ramp to make certain the rear of the barrel ramp does not protrude into the magazine well portion of the ramp, by even the slightest bit. When I found one that did, I carefully removed a tiny bit of metal from the barrel ramp, checked it, then took off a tiny bit more until it was a smooth surface all the way up the ramp.

Then I widened the ramp a bit, not much. I never did believe in hogging the feed ramp out like some alleged gun smiths did.

Once the contours were free of bumps and tool marks I polished it till I could see myself with finer and finer wet or dry sand paper.

Oh, I did all this with a round file and sand paper. I didn't have a Dremel tool then. I still wont use one as they take off way too much metal too fast to suit me.

You might want to compare the position of the magazine in the frame to a pistol that works, to see about the bullet nose dipping problem. It might be the angle of the feed throat or the height the magazine sits in the frame.

Good luck with your task. There's nothing that shoots nicer than a well behaved 1911a1.

Joe

[wecsoger]

What they said.

Remember, this is a 100 year old plus weapons system and during that time we've worked out most of the bugs. (grin)

Only want to add, please, please, please buy good magazines. Those cheap bin mags at the gun show, or the ones still in brown paper, no, no, no.

I'm not saying go out and by the uber-tactical personally blessed by Mr. Browning magazines that get close to three figures each. But buy good ones.

Right now for the value, performance and customer service I'm a big fan of the Chip McCormick mags, link here: http://www.cmcmags.com/ClassicSeries.html

Get the base pads too.

A mediocre gun will run better with a good magazine than a perfectly tuned gun with a crappy one.

[M. M. Wright]

For social work I use Wilson magazines. They are the best. All of what Joe said is gospel plus you need to put in the correct recoil spring for the load you are using. Somewhere between 18 and 20 lbs. My fading mind can't get up the brand name but the ones wound with square wire used to be the cat's pajamas back in the 80s when I was shooting IPSC.

My two best 1911s were stolen a few years ago, one by Frank Pachmeyer and the other by Bud Price. The Bud Price gun, (the best one) came home via a hit on NCIC.

I like to run the rubber shock buffer that Wilson sells too. It helps to prevent cracked frames.

[Chuck 100 yd]

In addition to the feed ramp and magazine as noted above, the extractor can cause much feed issues. Don`t overlook it when working the gun.
Here is a good read on the subject.
http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/ejec ... ection.htm
Good luck!!

[tman]

Trade it in on one that feeds like the guy who owned it last did.

[AJMD429]

My two best 1911s were stolen a few years ago, one by Frank Pachmeyer and the other by Bud Price.

I can't believe that well-known guys like that would risk their reputations by stealing guns; that's despicable...!

Thanks guys. Guess I have some reading to do for the next spare afternoon I get.

[egumpher]

Hello,

I would like to add:

Check the slide stop/release lug for brass marks on the lobe that extends into/above the magazine and remove material if the lobe extends too far into the mag well.

Check the bottom corner of the breach-face for sharp corners or burrs because this is where the slide first contacts the round.

Check the breach-face for machine marks and burrs on the firing pin hole.

Check the disconnector for smooth operation.

BTW....I've never needed to touch a feed ramp. A loading round actually ricochets off the feed ramp at a very small contact point smaller than the head of a pencil eraser. The first round contact the lowest and the last round contacts the highest at the very top of the ramp. Contact points/ricochets rather than sliding up a ramp. All points contact in the middle of the ramp, so the outside edges doesn't do anything.

Here a picture that Niemi from M1911.org made that illustrates the contact points:


Wilson Combat mag present the round much higher than a GI mag. This is because Wilson sells mostly eight round mags which means the first round "nose dives" even lower than a seven round mag. So to avoid feed problems Wilson presents the rounds higher.

[edwardyoung]

If you haven't already been there try the gunsmithing forum on http://forums.1911forum.com/ . Also the 1911 "stickies" at the top of the gunsmithing forum on http://www.thehighroad.org/forumdisplay.php?f=16 . Lots of good info in both places

[86er]

With a constant nose diving round I'd take a hard look at the slide stop.

[Lastmohecken]

Nose diving to me sounds like a magazine problem, also as was said before it could be the slide stop, but check the extractor for sure, also. Look at the area where the extractor comes out of the slide. If the back side of the extractor is sticking out any at all it can catch the rim and keep it from jumping out of the mag, and the extractor needs to be adjusted correctly and many come from the factory not adjusted correctly.

The bottom of the extractor hook also needs to have a slight bevel to it. If there is any doubt, I would order a Wilson Bulletproof extractor and install it. It also comes with directions for adjusting. This would be a good learning lesson for you.