Browning 1886 Light Firing Pin strikes...again

[Old Time Hunter]

Quite sure this topic has been handled a time or two, but did the search and came up with nothing concrete.

First time in about three-four years took my Browning 1886 out for a spin, unfotunately...no firing. After a ton of WD-40 and dry firing a few hundred times, I managed to get the pin to start touching the primer, but not enough to cause ignition. Had to give up as other obligations needed to be taken care of.

Isn't there a quick fix for this?

If not, anybody have directions on the proper disassembly of the bolt is?

[vancelw]

Quite sure this topic has been handled a time or two, but did the search and came up with nothing concrete.

First time in about three-four years took my Browning 1886 out for a spin, unfotunately...no firing. After a ton of WD-40 and dry firing a few hundred times, I managed to get the pin to start touching the primer, but not enough to cause ignition. Had to give up as other obligations needed to be taken care of.

Isn't there a quick fix for this?

If not, anybody have directions on the proper disassembly of the bolt is?

http://shootingwithhobie.blogspot.com/2 ... -1886.html

http://www.levergunscommunity.com/viewt ... in#p318816

http://www.levergunscommunity.com/viewt ... hilit=1886

You WILL say a few dirty words before you're finished.

[J Miller]

First off, now that you're home, pull the stock off of the rifle, and flush that WD-40 out of the bolt with some break clean.

Pull the stock
Open the action
Point it muzzle up
Stick nozzle in the firing pin hole
Flush it good.

When dry, lightly lube the firing pin, bolt and everything else.

Too much oil will gum up those firing pins.

Joe

[Old Time Hunter]

Thanks, will disassemble when time allows.

Would a lighter firing pin spring stop this problem? Or is there someway to eliminate the inertia style system?

[vancelw]

Thanks, will disassemble when time allows.

Would a lighter firing pin spring stop this problem? Or is there someway to eliminate the inertia style system?

When you press in on the rear of the firing pin with a pen (or something) does the firing pin protrude from the face of the bolt? Does it do so smoothly or do you feel resistance?

The problem with my rifle was that the pin was bowed ever so slightly like a banana. Once I straightened it out, the firing pin worked fine every time.

[Mike D.]

Your best option is to replace the multi piece pin with a one piece, or better yet, install an original 1886 bolt from a late .33 caliber rifle.

[williamranks]

If you bought it used could be a previous owner put in a lighter hammer spring.

[Old Time Hunter]

If you bought it used could be a previous owner put in a lighter hammer spring.

It was brand new in the box, couple-three years ago I first tried to fire it...no go, not even an indent on the primer. Sprayed WD 40 into it, soaked the pin, worked the dickens out of it and managed to fire a few rounds. First time since, and only the second time that I know trying to fire it since it was built for Browning by Miroku or whatever they are called.

Your best option is to replace the multi piece pin with a one piece

Mike, where can I get one?

[Malamute]

I'm going along with the congealed oil camp. wd-40 is a decent light solvent, not really a good lubricant compared to a good quality oil, especially over the long term. You may have even more dried oil now, from the old stuff and the old wd-40.

I agree with flushing it with brake clean and lighly oiling it with a high grade oil, not wd-40.

I have two of the Brownings and have never had the slightest bit of trouble with either.

I don't now if a model 71 Winchester firing pin would work in the Browning 86's. You could get one and try it. May be abe to fit it in any event.

[williamranks]

Try a real gun oil first. WD-40 uses paraffin for a lube.
It really should to be taken apart, inspected, cleaned and lubed with a good gun oil.
It's not that hard if you keep the parts organized. A muffin tin or magnetic parts tray works.
Keep a magnet handy for the one part you drop on the rug, I always drop one.
Look for a metal chip in the bolt or maybe some cosmoline, it looks like a coating of yellow varnish and it's not easy to remove.

Instructions:
http://www.levergunscommunity.com/viewt ... =1&t=25712

Bill

[Old Time Hunter]

Fit to be tied!

Can not get this gun to fire consistently. In fact, not at all.

Used J Miller's solution of brake cleaner, actually soaked the bolt in it. Seemed to free up the pin somewhat, then put a light coat of Remoil on it. Put it all back together, loaded it, and actually expected the gun to fire.

Boy, was I mistaken! Nothing, nada...back to square one.

I did everything but take the actual firing pin out of the bolt, cause I do not have an instruction book and I am afraid that I will put a scratch in it if I try.

I think the firing pin spring is too strong, should be no stronger than a ball point pen spring in my assumption.

Any comments? Help?

By the way, called Browning...that was a real waste of time.

[Mike D.]

If you bought it used could be a previous owner put in a lighter hammer spring.

It was brand new in the box, couple-three years ago I first tried to fire it...no go, not even an indent on the primer. Sprayed WD 40 into it, soaked the pin, worked the dickens out of it and managed to fire a few rounds. First time since, and only the second time that I know trying to fire it since it was built for Browning by Miroku or whatever they are called.

Your best option is to replace the multi piece pin with a one piece

Mike, where can I get one?

Steve Young, of Steve's Gunz did one of mine. Call or email him for info.

[rbertalotto]

These are actually quite simple rifles. The original 1886 1873 did not have a firing pin spring. The firing pin was 1 piece. And I drag on the top of the hammer is what reset it. The firing pin spring needs to be relatively strong To properly reset the firing pin.
You will have to remove the firing pin for inspection. It is either bent, gummed up, or peened.

[Griff]

Quite sure this topic has been handled a time or two, but did the search and came up with nothing concrete.
First time in about three-four years took my Browning 1886 out for a spin, unfotunately...no firing. After a ton of WD-40 and dry firing a few hundred times, I managed to get the pin to start touching the primer, but not enough to cause ignition. Had to give up as other obligations needed to be taken care of.
Isn't there a quick fix for this?
If not, anybody have directions on the proper disassembly of the bolt is?

Is this a Browning or the Winchester version?

[Old Time Hunter]

Quite sure this topic has been handled a time or two, but did the search and came up with nothing concrete.
First time in about three-four years took my Browning 1886 out for a spin, unfotunately...no firing. After a ton of WD-40 and dry firing a few hundred times, I managed to get the pin to start touching the primer, but not enough to cause ignition. Had to give up as other obligations needed to be taken care of.
Isn't there a quick fix for this?
If not, anybody have directions on the proper disassembly of the bolt is?

Is this a Browning or the Winchester version?

Browning

[Griff]

If I were to hazard a guess, and that's all it would be, it's that somehow you've got something gummin' up the firing pin. If you have adequate spring tension on the main spring, only a gummed up firing pin or broken firing pin spring that's somehow got your pin sticking.

If you remove the lever, you should be able to tell if the pin moves freely. The lever holds the pin back when the bolt is open making a check for a freely moving pin difficult. With the lever out, you can slide the bolt back and just use thumb pressure to check movement of the pin. I might be wrong, it's been a LONG time since I've had mine apart.

Don't use WD-40 as it'll gum over time. I would remove the bolt, and use a brake or carb cleaner, or something like "Gun Scrubber". These SHOULD flush out any gummed up lubricants that could be hanging up your firing pin.

[Malamute]

These have a weird, two piece firing pin that takes a certain amount of inertia to fire. The old ones had no spring, and just floated in the channel. I still think it's gummed up. More brake or choke cleaner may be in order, and let it soak a while. Perhaps some strong solvent, like shooters choice would get it disolved and cleaned out. I wouldnt be above reducing the spring tension of the firing pin, but if you get it apart, it may be apparent whats going on. A good scrubbing may be enough, or a deburring and light polish. An old type one piece firing pin may be the simplest. They are available from parts suppliers. I think they are the same for the 71's, but am not sure. The Browning firing pins are shorter than the length of the bolt (as is a 1911), the old ones were longer than the bolt and would protrude through the bolt face against a primer when the hammer was down.

As Griff alluded to, on the older type 86's the lever cammed the firing pin back away from the cartridge when the bolt starts to open, then when it closed, it was free to move. My 92 and 71 both allow the firing pin to move enough you can tell if it's free, you can feel and hear it.


You mentioned in the first post ythat you dry fired it a few hundred times to free upm the firing pin. has it been dry fired before? The pin may be burred from that, but I'm still thinking its mostly old dried oil. I dont recall oiling the firing pin in any of mine, and they rattle when I move them. Other than a very light coating to prevent rust, such as off your finger tips from a single drop, I wouldn't oil it at all after you get it cleaned up.