Can you provide us with an explanation of HOW you lapped the barrel on your Browning.
I might need to do it that .358 I am working on.
old ranger
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Please post political post in the new Politics forum.
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Old Ranger
- Levergunner 2.0
- Posts: 201
- Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2010 1:44 pm
- Location: East Texas
Re: old ranger
Okey doke...here's my easy to use lapping system...
Cast some soft pure lead bullets. The longer the bearing surface, the better. Size them to bore diameter. Do not lube them. Then get some automotive valve grinding compound. (the grit can be from 400 up to 600 depending how fast you want to get this done) Smear a good bit of it on a flat plate. Steel, an old dead flat china plate, whatever. Just so you can get the bullets to lie in the compound. Then with another plate, run it over the bullets getting them to go back and forth in the compound and coat them well. Don't use porus stuff like wood and such. You want the compound to be pressed into the lead as hard as you can. Wood will not allow this to happen and you'll just be putting 50% of what you need down the bore.
Bell the mouths of several primed cases a little larger than normal (to allow the coated bullets to loose little it any of the compound enbeded in them) and load over a very mild charge. One that you know is above a squib, but will push the round out the bore. I've had them go as far as 15 feet and fall to the ground at times! Then go shoot one, pull a dry patch through the bore after a couple to see how much compound is in the bore. Then after you've fired about 15 or as many as 20, your bore will be fire lapped pretty well. I've heard of some folks going as many as 50, but I think that's overkill.....
After the fire lapping, use a bore paste, I used Montana Extreme Bore paste, and clean the compound out real well. You want a super clean bore with no compound residue. This should be enough to lap bores that are in need of such treatment...If it is still a might rough, you can hand lap the bore. This involves a bit more work, but is an old proved system...if one needs to hand lap, I'll go into that too, but usually the fire lapping will do the trick...Hand lapping is just more involving and uses casting in the breach and such...not for the nervous or faint of heart!
So, if your bore is rough. New, and shows signs of major rifiling cuts and burrs, fire lapping will get most, if not all, out of the way. I only wished I had remembered that when I was fighting that Browning! Would have saved me some headaches!!
Wade
Cast some soft pure lead bullets. The longer the bearing surface, the better. Size them to bore diameter. Do not lube them. Then get some automotive valve grinding compound. (the grit can be from 400 up to 600 depending how fast you want to get this done) Smear a good bit of it on a flat plate. Steel, an old dead flat china plate, whatever. Just so you can get the bullets to lie in the compound. Then with another plate, run it over the bullets getting them to go back and forth in the compound and coat them well. Don't use porus stuff like wood and such. You want the compound to be pressed into the lead as hard as you can. Wood will not allow this to happen and you'll just be putting 50% of what you need down the bore.
Bell the mouths of several primed cases a little larger than normal (to allow the coated bullets to loose little it any of the compound enbeded in them) and load over a very mild charge. One that you know is above a squib, but will push the round out the bore. I've had them go as far as 15 feet and fall to the ground at times! Then go shoot one, pull a dry patch through the bore after a couple to see how much compound is in the bore. Then after you've fired about 15 or as many as 20, your bore will be fire lapped pretty well. I've heard of some folks going as many as 50, but I think that's overkill.....
After the fire lapping, use a bore paste, I used Montana Extreme Bore paste, and clean the compound out real well. You want a super clean bore with no compound residue. This should be enough to lap bores that are in need of such treatment...If it is still a might rough, you can hand lap the bore. This involves a bit more work, but is an old proved system...if one needs to hand lap, I'll go into that too, but usually the fire lapping will do the trick...Hand lapping is just more involving and uses casting in the breach and such...not for the nervous or faint of heart!
So, if your bore is rough. New, and shows signs of major rifiling cuts and burrs, fire lapping will get most, if not all, out of the way. I only wished I had remembered that when I was fighting that Browning! Would have saved me some headaches!!
Wade
Aim low boys! They're riddin' shetlands!
Re: old ranger
I found this .358 in a junk plile, so I am somewhat removed from fire lapping.
My interest goes to the manual method.
Is it appropiate to tell reservation jokes now?
My interest goes to the manual method.
Is it appropiate to tell reservation jokes now?
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Old Ranger
- Levergunner 2.0
- Posts: 201
- Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2010 1:44 pm
- Location: East Texas
Re: old ranger
Well hand lapping involves using a casting made in the lead of the bore around an old wire brush for the job. In short, you plug the bore a couple of inches from the lead in the bore and pour some soft lead in there as you set the brush in the mix. It's tricky to do. Some will cast a bullet with the sprueplate open and have the old brush in there. That's a lot easier and far safer!! That is the method I used. The other method is easier to do on a pistol as you're dealing with a shorter barrel and less mess with the reciever and such...
Anyway, you cast a soft lead bullet with the old brush (well undersized brush by the way) and do the same thing with the compound on the plate thing and attach the slug to a real stiff (steel) cleaning rod. Start slow and run that slug back and forth in the bore. Take care not to destroy the crown OR the lead in the chamber. Usually several passes will show enough progress that you can see. Often about 15 to 20 passes done slowly and taking care not to flair the ends, and you'll have a well polished bore....BUT, it takes a strong arm and hand to do this job! I've seen a few that got stuck tight! REMEMBER THIS: Cast the bullet with the brush in place, then mike it and you can actually roll it down to size with two plates to be the same as bore diameter. Then work your compound into the bullet. The soft lead will give a little as it goes in and out the bore, but it will go. You can tap it some when it gets tight with a mallet to get it going again. By having the weapon in a well padded vice and using careful movement this is a do-able deal....If ya get into this and need more info, just hollar, I'm here!
Oh, rez jokes??? Sure! I love 'em! I bet we both got several huh??
Wade
Anyway, you cast a soft lead bullet with the old brush (well undersized brush by the way) and do the same thing with the compound on the plate thing and attach the slug to a real stiff (steel) cleaning rod. Start slow and run that slug back and forth in the bore. Take care not to destroy the crown OR the lead in the chamber. Usually several passes will show enough progress that you can see. Often about 15 to 20 passes done slowly and taking care not to flair the ends, and you'll have a well polished bore....BUT, it takes a strong arm and hand to do this job! I've seen a few that got stuck tight! REMEMBER THIS: Cast the bullet with the brush in place, then mike it and you can actually roll it down to size with two plates to be the same as bore diameter. Then work your compound into the bullet. The soft lead will give a little as it goes in and out the bore, but it will go. You can tap it some when it gets tight with a mallet to get it going again. By having the weapon in a well padded vice and using careful movement this is a do-able deal....If ya get into this and need more info, just hollar, I'm here!
Oh, rez jokes??? Sure! I love 'em! I bet we both got several huh??
Wade
Aim low boys! They're riddin' shetlands!
Re: old ranger
Yep.