PSE Coyote recurve bow

[m.wun]

Anyone have or use one?The reviews have been good.I dont know much about traditional
archery gear.I shot a 60lbs compound, not sure if I could shoot a recurve at 55?It seems
reasonably priced and by a decent company.

[Marvin S]

I used to have a PSE take down recurve that may be similar to the one you speak of. It was good but I don't use any sights so the extra length and size of the riser was too much for me. I like the Bear Kodiak magnum or others in the 48 to 52 in length. You just got to build them muscles up and it should not be a problem, they are just not meant to hold forever like the compound is.

[Nath]

Anyone have or use one?The reviews have been good.I dont know much about traditional
archery gear.I shot a 60lbs compound, not sure if I could shoot a recurve at 55?It seems
reasonably priced and by a decent company.

Ever shot a sling shot? Thats roughly how I shoot my recurves.

Good luck

Nath.

[.Dirty-.Thirty]

I've never saw a coyote recurve in person, but my advice is to buy yourself a 45# used Bear off of the auction site. A nice Kodiak Hunter or Grizzly model will do. my 2 cents .DT

[TMair]

I mostly like long bows, but I do have one recurve, a Shakespear, can't remember the model, but the riser is maybe a foot long total, it is one sweet bow, I just wish it was a little more powerful, it is a 45#, I wish it was a 65#.
Terry

[Marvin S]

I've never saw a coyote recurve in person, but my advice is to buy yourself a 45# used Bear off of the auction site. A nice Kodiak Hunter or Grizzly model will do. my 2 cents .DT

That would be my thought also especially if you are going to instinct shoot with no sights, as that is the way recurves should be shot. Check out Byron Ferguson youtube videos. With some practice and (good follow through) you will be surprised how well one can shoot. The good compact recurves handle well in the brush. I recommend a 50lb draw

[Old Ranger]

You gonna hunt with this bow, or just punch targets?
The learning curve is much greater in your favor if you get a light (30-35#) to learn with. If you start out with a 55# bow you will learn many bad habits. Not comming to full draw. Pulling as fast as you can and trying to get the shot off without proper form. Never establishing a solid anchor point. These are just some of the issues that face the new recurve shooter. I strongle urge you to fo to a pro shop that has a good bow tech and seek his advice. I started shooting bows in 1957 and have taught both professionally and in the Scouts. Is it not something you just pick up and shoot and expect instant results. IF you are "over bowed" to start with it just compounds the problem and you will become discouraged quickly and that bow will end up on ebay or a pawn shop and you will miss out on the pure pleasure of shooting a recurve. Again, find a GOOD bowtech and get his assistance....

Wade

[44magHunter]

Hey, mabey I can help...

I am actually the main tech. at the local archery shop where I live.......

Anyway, I have worked on and sold several PSE Coyote bows. I have also shot every single one I worked on and they are not bad bows. They are not "traditional" bows because you CANNOT shoot "off the shelf". You have to have some kind of rest screwed into the riser. Usually, you will see a cushion/plunger type rest on these bows.

Personally, I think the newer Coyote bows are great for the money. I am not personally a take-down guy, but if I were limiting myself to $200 the Coyote would be the bow I would get.


A few things you might want to know bfore buying:

1) The (plastic/rubber) grip on this bow is somewhat small and it's not very comfortable if you have larger ape-like hands as I do.

2) YOU HAVE TO USE AN AFTERMARKET ARROW REST ON THIS BOW. (This is not a bad thing...actually it's more accurate than shooting off the shelf...but you need to be aware of this.

3) This bow is a little heavier than most recurved because the riser portion is made of metal. I actually like the weight of this bow, but many may not.

4) Draw weight: I own three different compounds. The heaviest one (my hunting rig) is 70#'s draw. I shoot a 45# recurve or 50# at most. I have shot 60#-ers, but I shoot 45# the best. I think if you are currently shooting a 60# compound you will want to start out with a 40# or lighter recurve. They are much different than compounds and just becaus you can pull the weight comfortably does not mean you can shoot it comfortably/well. Do not over-bow yourself. You will regret it if you do.

One misconception about the Coyote:

Many people think this bow has adjustable draw weight. It does not. If you back the limb bolts out, you cannot safely shoot the bow. Draw weight is fixed on this bow as well as on all recurves, take-down or not.

I hope this helps.
-44mag.

[m.wun]

Great info,Thanks! I think Ill start a tad light then if I like the bow I can buy new limbs that
are heavier draw.I did see that a arrow rest needs to be used.

[TMair]

Just wondering, if you were to use feather fletched arrows why could you not shoot off of the shelf with this bow? I have always shot off of the shelf with my recurve, and long bows.
Terry

[flounderjig]

Check ou Stickbow.com and look at reviews there first.

[44magHunter]

Just wondering, if you were to use feather fletched arrows why could you not shoot off of the shelf with this bow? I have always shot off of the shelf with my recurve, and long bows.
Terry

The riser is cut out like a compound. The sight window is past center-shot, so the arrow would be WAAAYYY off to the side. Your fletching would also be torn up in no time because of the shape of the shelf. The fact of it is that the bow was made to be shot only with a seperate rest and never off the shelf.

[pokynojoe]

You gonna hunt with this bow, or just punch targets?
The learning curve is much greater in your favor if you get a light (30-35#) to learn with. If you start out with a 55# bow you will learn many bad habits. Not comming to full draw. Pulling as fast as you can and trying to get the shot off without proper form. Never establishing a solid anchor point. These are just some of the issues that face the new recurve shooter. I strongle urge you to fo to a pro shop that has a good bow tech and seek his advice. I started shooting bows in 1957 and have taught both professionally and in the Scouts. Is it not something you just pick up and shoot and expect instant results. IF you are "over bowed" to start with it just compounds the problem and you will become discouraged quickly and that bow will end up on ebay or a pawn shop and you will miss out on the pure pleasure of shooting a recurve. Again, find a GOOD bowtech and get his assistance....

Wade

Listen to this guy. I also, have been involved with the sport of archery for many years. I teach ASAP and JOAD and have been involved with the NFAA for many years. First determine what you want to do with the bow. Over bowing is the most frequent problem I see with new archers. If you just want to fling some arrows in the back yard, than have it. However, if you want to achieve proficiency in the discipline you choose, find a coach. Barring that, go to a range where they shoot recurves and watch, the guy putting all his arrows inside the 4 ring of an NFAA 20 yard indoor spot, is the guy you want to start talking to. I only shoot ILF rigs and have for many years now, so I can't help you on the Coyote, but if the bow appeals to you on some level, than try it. Good luck!

Joe