Wood finishing questions

[J Miller]

I have an old wooden sewing machine case I'm going to refinish. Actually finish would be more appropriate as someone has already stripped it down to the wood.

On a sewing blog the guy says varnish or shellac will eventually ruin the wood. He sites the general deteriorated condition of most wooden cases as evidense. Then goes on to say he refinishes his with Tung Oil.

OK, almost all wooden sewing machine cases I've seen are dark. Most from aging but they were originally stained as well.

I was thinking of using Minwax Wood Finish dark walnut stain for the color, then after that's dry finishing it with Minwax Tung Oil Finish.

My question is; will these two products work with each other or will they clash? I've read the labels and they don't say.

Oh, I mention these two products because I already have them.

Joe

[Bruce Scott]

Joe,

Here are a couple of articles that may be of interest:

http://revjim.net/2004/03/02/minwax-tun ... rue-story/

http://www.scrollsawer.com/forum/wood-f ... /31409.htm

[J Miller]

Bruce,

Thanks for the tip. The Minwax stuff goes back in the garage.

Joe

[Canuck Bob]

I'm no expert but the best antiques in the world are shellac finished. I really like shellac because it adheres to everything and each coat melts into the last. I think old wood items deteriorate due to the effect of sunlight and humidity because thier finish is wore out. UV rays are murder on finishes and wood over time. I've had less than perfect results with varnish on house hold wood due to brush strokes showing.

Be cautious of premixed shellac. Check the date and choose stuff at a year or less, Zinsner is a good brand. If its old it stays tacky forever. I buy flakes and thinner (low moisture content alcohol) from Lee Valley (they are web friendly and service both the USA and Canada) and mix for the job. All the major woodworking specialty webshops carry the stuff. Fine Woodworking has a number of books on hand finishing as opposed to modern spray lacquers available in most decent libraries.

I also use Lee Valley's tung oil products and prefer an oiled finish like a fine rifle stock. Less solvents, easy to apply, just requires extra time and work and a little fussiness.

[J Miller]

Bob,

Thanks for the info and tip. I've got three old 1920s or there about cases that need some work. Two of them will be worked over in a manner explained here: http://www.treadleon.net/woodshop/resto ... inish.html
The third one is the one without a finish. So I was considering an oil finish rather than varnish or shellac.

(We've been having trouble our new PC back on line and I'm still on the old Win 98 box. I can't hook up the camera to download pics.)

Joe

[Canuck Bob]

I find oil finishes to be so friendly to use. And it is hard to get a nicer looking finish that works with the woods natural beauty. It trades gloss for warmth to my eye.

Since getting cancer I am much more educated about even casual contact with industrial chemicals. My doctor thinks contact with farm and industrial chemicals is the root for many cases of bone marrow cancer.

If it smells nasty I glove up and wear a respirator. No way to enjoy a woodworking hobby or messing in the shop.

[Moondawg]

I would vote for the tung oil finish; however, I would use real pure tung oil cut with turpentine, mineral spirits, or citrus oil say about half and half. Most or your so called tung oil finishes have very little tung oil and alot of varnish and other additives. Pure cut tung oil is easly to use, penetrates the wood instead of builting up on top, and is highly resistent to water and moisture. It provides a beautiful finish and is super easy to touch up. The biggest problem with tung oil is that it is not a fast drying finish. You need anywhere from 4-6 coats, or more, and drying time between coats can take several days. I love and use real tung oil, but it is not a finish to use if you are in a hurry.

[J Miller]

I find oil finishes to be so friendly to use. And it is hard to get a nicer looking finish that works with the woods natural beauty. It trades gloss for warmth to my eye.

Since getting cancer I am much more educated about even casual contact with industrial chemicals. My doctor thinks contact with farm and industrial chemicals is the root for many cases of bone marrow cancer.

If it smells nasty I glove up and wear a respirator. No way to enjoy a woodworking hobby or messing in the shop.

Bob,
That could be a problem here as well. The only work area I have is my basement. And between the occasional use of break clean, paint thinner and other things I kinda stink this place up some. I've been reducing the use of these things, but since I have no outside place to work it's pretty hard.

I would vote for the tung oil finish; however, I would use real pure tung oil cut with turpentine, mineral spirits, or citrus oil say about half and half. Most or your so called tung oil finishes have very little tung oil and alot of varnish and other additives. Pure cut tung oil is easly to use, penetrates the wood instead of builting up on top, and is highly resistent to water and moisture. It provides a beautiful finish and is super easy to touch up. The biggest problem with tung oil is that it is not a fast drying finish. You need anywhere from 4-6 coats, or more, and drying time between coats can take several days. I love and use real tung oil, but it is not a finish to use if you are in a hurry.

Moondawg,
I've been seriously considering that. One of the links above is to a source of pure tung oil.
I'm not in any real hurry to do the case cos the machine in it has no electrics to make it run.
I'm looking for an original Singer set rather than the aftermarket ones I've seen.

Joe

[Moondawg]

If you have a problem with the oder of some of the cutting agents, such as citus solvent, turpintine, or mineral spirits, you can use pure tung oil uncut. You just have to spend a few more minutes rubbing it in, as the pure stuff is not absorbed as quick, and the drying time between coats is a little longer. Pure tung oil itself does not a strong oder, no more than say olive oil. It all depends on how big a hurry you are to do your finish. Tung oil give a more durable finish and does not darken with age the way linseed oil will. Its real easy to use, its main down side is that it does not dry real quickly.

[J Miller]

The odors don't bother me too much. When I get around to it I'll just take my time. If it takes a while to dry, so be it.

Joe