Finally updated my Rossi 92....Thanks to Nate Kiowa Jones!

[stew71]

Thanks to Steve Young...aka NKJ...and his bolt safety replacement plug, my Rossi 92 is now dressed properly to be seen in public. It's funny how much that funky little safety thingy has bothered me for so long. With rain due this weekend, I'll be in the garage replacing the factory mag tube follower with Steve's metal replacement. Very nice workmanship on both. Thanks again to Steves Gunz Parts for the quick turnaround on the parts and 1st rate customer service.

Oh yeah....almost forgot the obligatory pics. She's a .45 Colt with the 24" barrel. Very accurate and a joy to carry in the woods.

[Tycer]

Black Crayon and a bit of heat will fill the S and F and not be affected by cleaning.

[Rube Burrows]

Nice case colors.

[Pete44ru]

Actually, the "F" & "S" stampings are only paint-filled, and readily removed with a little laq thinner on the end of a sharp toothpick or stylus.

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[COSteve]

Deleted

[jlchucker]

If you're thinking of sprucing up the stock finish, I've got a great suggestion. I took some WATCO Danish Oil in medium walnut and applied it directly over my original dull brown stained Rossis. A couple of coats and a bit of rubbing it in and I have two gorgeous looking stocks now. They came out much better than I had expected.

Before: This is my Rossi that's the same style as yours.



After: Here both are after a bit of WATCO and some TLC on the stocks.



No, it ain't a result of a flash shot or anything. The difference is at least as noticeable in person as the pictures. The new finish isn't high gloss but rather a satin finish. The real 'pop' comes from the deeper looking, richer color.

Steve, you just inspired me to do the same with that WATCO. I need to go out and find some of that. Did you take the wood off before applying, or is that stuff something that doesn't adhere to metal?

[Borregos]

Steve, having seen that I am off to buy some Watco this afternoon

[Hanzerik]

Steve, you just inspired me to do the same with that WATCO. I need to go out and find some of that. Did you take the wood off before applying, or is that stuff something that doesn't adhere to metal?

Was going to ask the exact same question. From some of the stories I have read about it being a pain in the butt to get the wood back on, I'm afraid to try to take it off.

[COSteve]

Steve, you just inspired me to do the same with that WATCO. I need to go out and find some of that. Did you take the wood off before applying, or is that stuff something that doesn't adhere to metal?

Was going to ask the exact same question. From some of the stories I have read about it being a pain in the butt to get the wood back on, I'm afraid to try to take it off.

I took the wood off to add the Danish oil, however, one could mask off the metal parts and do a decent job if they're careful. The buttstock comes off with one single screw and the forestock isn't difficult either.

The secret I've found to the rich look is to hand rub it in. I mean rub it hard enough to warm up your hand as that helps the oil penetrate into the wood. You can't rub it in too much. Also, follow the directions and apply a medium coat (enough to let you rub it in), let is soak in a bit and then apply another light coat rather than flooding it with one heavy coat. Be sure to rub in the second coat too. Then I flowed on a light top coat to achieve a smooth finish.

Be aware that there is a drawback with this product for all you impatient folks. I've found that it takes the better part of a week even here in dry Colorado for the oil to completely dry / cure. That means yo have to be patient before you use 0000 steel wool to final finish it. Also, be careful with the steel wool as it can raise the shine level. My last step after everything was cured well was to take an old clean bath towel and rub it over the stock briskly. It seems to help keep the satin look of the finish that I like.

[Jeff H]

I have the better part of a gallon of that stuff in my shop.
The only problem is that I have to do some sanding on my stock before I commit to the finish. No sense in putting the effort into a finish if the wood isn't looking half ways presentable.

Mine is not walnut, but a light-colored SA hardwood that I cannot ID with the present factory stain. I have to reduce a few minor dimensions to get the wood to mate with the metal like the first pics too. I keep watching for a top view of one of an old 92 to see how fat the comb should be. Mine seems a bit full. Doesn't hurt a thing, but if I am going to do some work, may as well try to make it look as nice as I can.