What if.......

[Biggred]

I sent Paco an email about the accurizer, and I'm waiting for him to answer. In the meantime I've been thinking. (You don't know how scared folks are here). Anywho what do you think about or has anyone tried using a "c" press to mash the bullet. It seems it might be a bit more controllable than rapping it with a hammer. Set the stop, put the rod in the tool and press every bullet the same. Our shootin place is closed for fire season and I got too much time to think. Thanks, Frank

[J Miller]

I sent Paco an email about the accurizer, and I'm waiting for him to answer. In the meantime I've been thinking. (You don't know how scared folks are here). Anywho what do you think about or has anyone tried using a "c" press to mash the bullet. It seems it might be a bit more controllable than rapping it with a hammer. Set the stop, put the rod in the tool and press every bullet the same. Our shootin place is closed for fire season and I got too much time to think. Thanks, Frank

Frank,
I've been thinking about using an arbor press on the one I'm borrowing. I guess it's safe to tap on them little rounds, but it does bother me a bunch.
Joe

[Hobie]

As soft as the .22 LR bullets are, I would think a drill press would work better and quicker than a "C" press without big changes to tool or press.

[AmBraCol]

I suspect that the issue is the transference of energy to the bullet. A sharp, quick rap of a mallet is going to have a different effect on the bullet than a slow shove. I've heard folks talk about this, but haven't heard of anyone DOING it. Sure would like to hear what folks have to say about it after they run the experiment.

[J Miller]

I suspect that the issue is the transference of energy to the bullet. A sharp, quick rap of a mallet is going to have a different effect on the bullet than a slow shove. I've heard folks talk about this, but haven't heard of anyone DOING it. Sure would like to hear what folks have to say about it after they run the experiment.

I have one of Paco's tools coming in on loan. When I get it I plan on trying the press idea as well as the hammer. I'll write up my experiences when I do.

Joe

[Biggred]

Thanks for the thoughts. I'm not really worried about hitting it with a hammer, just thinking if it would be more controllable with the press. Hobie, maybe I messed up, not a reloading press, but a "c" press is what I've always called an arbor press. You can get little ones at the chinamart tool store for a few dollars. I've got an old one I've used to press valve bodies and things for the umpteen years I've rebuilt transmissions. I'm ordering my tool from Paco, sounds like he's fair busy, and I think I answered my own question anyway. I'll let you all know if it pans out when it gets here. I'm even threatening to have my daughter show me how to attach photos. Thanks, Frank

[SteveR]

I think the way Paco has it set up to use a mallet is the ideal method, it takes a little practice but after you get the feel for it, its pretty efficient. I think with a press it will take a long, long time to resize any large quantity. To do a box of 50 takes me a while, with the mallet method, I can't see how a press will help.

I did make one go off to see what would happen, if you decide to try it also, make sure you wear safety glasses. The case let loose and pieces of the casing came out, the bullet stayed in the die, then fell right out. All of the pressure was released by the brass rupturing. I would be very hesitant to use anything that will trap the pressure inside the die!!

Steve

[AmBraCol]

I did make one go off to see what would happen, if you decide to try it also, make sure you wear safety glasses. The case let loose and pieces of the casing came out, the bullet stayed in the die, then fell right out. All of the pressure was released by the brass rupturing. I would be very hesitant to use anything that will trap the pressure inside the die!!

Steve

Reminds me of a couple of kids setting a 22 lr over a candle to make it go bang. Bullet stays put. The bullet and rod are much heavier than the shell casing. The laws of physics indicate that the casing is what's going to move/let go. So be aware of what is underneath the sizer when you whack it. And wearing safety glasses is a good idea, "just in case". A shattered piece of brass can send tiny particles all over the place. You DO NOT want one of those places to be your eyeball... I've never found a way to set off a round in the tool, but Mr. Murphy is alive and well. Caution is a good thing to possess.

[Ben_Rumson]

Here's my approach to things like this...Follow the directions that come with the tool.. Designers usually have thought of the best way to use a tool ... After you have learned the "factory" method and you've got it in your bones so it's automatic... Then go and try any other method you want to try.. Then you'll know...

[SteveR]

I've never found a way to set off a round in the tool

I did something that the tool was not made to do, to get one to go off. I don't want to get into nitty gritty details, but if you do what Paco instructs you will have no problems.

But, I wanted to see what would happen, I did it in as safe and controlled environment.

Again, Paul you are correct about the physics, but if one seals up both ends, and one goes bang, then I believe that a big boom and big pieces of brass tooling will be the result.

Steve

[Biggred]

Wow, I never figgered it would go this way. I understand the physics of a sharp rap over a steady push, I was just thinking out loud. I've done some pretty crazy heinous stuff in my childhood, and I've found 22rf is pretty hard to set off. I would have never guessed that you could set one off against a flat surface like you would have the tool against. It only shows that eye and ear protection is a solid part of all aspects of our hobby. I'm looking forward to gettin my tool and tryin it six ways from sunday. When I learn, I'll put up some pictures. Thanks to you all for letting me be part of this. Thanks, Frank