How do you keep the cylinder drag marks from occurring

[rjohns94]

on SA revolvers? Whats the trick. Assume the revolver is well tuned. What advice can you give the uninformed here. I think we ran this topic before, but its good info and perhaps we can start again on this one.

mike

[Hobie]

On the Colts... when you bring it to half-cock to load/unload always fully cock it before letting down the hammer on the empty chamber.

[J Miller]

Here ya go Mike:

In here is a way to work the action of original "COLT" design single actions to prevent full circumference drag lines. And also some instructions to prevent them on New Model Rugers.

Of course this requires you to first purchase a gun that has NO drag marks, or get your marred cylinder reblued.

To properly load an OLD STYLE single action revolver, (This includes all unconverted Old Model Rugers, Colts, Colt copies, Remington originals and copies, Great Westerns, Interarms Virginian Dragoons, and many others):
>Pull hammer to half cock.
>Open loading gate.
>Rotate cylinder to load or unload; LOAD one (1), SKIP one (1), LOAD four (4).
>Close loading gate
>Leaving the cylinder in this position, in other words do not turn it, pull the hammer all the way back to full cock and then with your thumb holding the hammer back, pull the trigger and gently lower the hammer to rest.
The hammer will then be resting over an empty chamber.

Doing this will also index the cylinder so that the cylinder latch (bolt) does not drag on the cylinder as it rotates. If for some reason you have to interrupt your loading sequence, or lower the hammer at the wrong time, DO NOT TURN the cylinder as the bolt has risen up and is pressing against it. Turing the cylinder at this time will cause drag marks. To get the cylinder back to it's locked position without creating a drag mark, simply pull the hammer back to full cock and lower it. This will put everything back in sequence.

To demonstrate this for those not familiar with how to handle the old type SA revolvers, I will follow the above directions and then point the gun at a target and pull the trigger. IF I followed the directions all you will hear is a dull thwack. If it fires, I did something wrong. Most of the time the neophytes jump out of their boots when the hammer goes thwack.

To load or unload a New Model Ruger Blackhawk:
>Flip open the loading gate.
>Load or unload the cylinder.
>Gently hold the cylinder with the flutes centered on both sides of the frame window and close the loading gate. The latch will rise up into its notch almost every time.
>If it has a fluteless cylinder, locate the upper most latch notches equally on either side of the top strap and close the loading gate. With practice you’ll be able to center the cylinder every time.

To load or unload a New Model Bearcat or a converted Old Model Ruger SA:
>Pull hammer to half cock.
>Open loading gate.
(If you want to load five:)
>Rotate cylinder to load or unload; LOAD one (1), SKIP one (1), LOAD four (4).
>Close loading gate
>Leaving the cylinder in this position, in other words do not turn it, pull the hammer all the way back to full cock and then with your thumb holding the hammer back, pull the trigger and gently lower the hammer to rest.
The hammer will then be resting over an empty chamber.
(If you want to load six:)
>Rotate cylinder to load or unload.
>Pull the hammer all the way back to full cock and then with your thumb holding the hammer back, pull the trigger and gently lower the hammer to rest. After the hammer passes the half cock notch you can release the trigger and the transfer bar will drop away from the firing pin.


Notice the cylinder on my Old Model Ruger BH. This is a replacement cylinder, but it has several thousand rounds through it, and untold thousands of dry cycling and hours of handling. Yet, it has NO drag line. So, if you follow my instructions, you can reduce or eliminate the full circumference drag lines on your single action revolvers.

Now, before you assume I'm an arrogant old codger let me tell you this. When I was a teenager in the mid 1960s, I spent many days lounging around Wades Gun Room in Phoenix, AZ talking to the OLD guys that ran and worked in the place. By old I mean one or two of them were in their 60s then. Meaning they were using single and double action revolvers when the west was still wild. Well it still is, but now we have too many government obstructions to things. Anyway, these experienced shootists taught me the proper way to handle both the single and double action revolvers so the drag lines were prevented. It's not in any book. I don't even think Kuhnhausen has it in any of his books. S&W and Colt don't show it in their owners’ manuals, but these methods work. Like JoeD from Handloads.Com said, they won't make sense until you do them as you read the instructions.

I made this up some time ago and have posted it many times.
I also have one made up for double action revolvers.

Joe

[foxtrapper]

Old models as said always go to full cock before lowering hammer. New models,unless you make modifications to innards you will have a cylinder line.

[rjohns94]

thanks Joe, just what we were looking for. blessings

[adirondakjack]

On NMBH or Vaquero, beware TRYING to alter the innards to eliminate the drag line. Doing so will very likely result in a bolt not rising high enough to securely lock up the gun. An early rising bolt on a NM ruger is a cosmetic iissue, a late rising bolt on these or any type SA revolver is a real issue, and one that might could get ya killed if it fails to lock up properly when ya really need it to. I don't mind my "insurance" rings.

[KSFlatheadhunter]

Everyone,

Thanks for the information! Would you follow the same procedure for the Freedom Arms guns as the old model unaltered Ruger's?

Thanks,
Darin

[RKrodle]

On NMBH or Vaquero, beware TRYING to alter the innards to eliminate the drag line. Doing so will very likely result in a bolt not rising high enough to securely lock up the gun. An early rising bolt on a NM ruger is a cosmetic iissue, a late rising bolt on these or any type SA revolver is a real issue, and one that might could get ya killed if it fails to lock up properly when ya really need it to. I don't mind my "insurance" rings.

Amen.

[J Miller]

Everyone,

Thanks for the information! Would you follow the same procedure for the Freedom Arms guns as the old model unaltered Ruger's?

Thanks,
Darin

Darin,

I honestly can't answer your question. I've never had any FA gun in my hand to check out. If they load on half cock, I'd say yes.

Joe

[Mokwaw]

Assuming there are no marks already, and old style SA. Put an electrical tie wrap through the trigger guard and over the hammer and pull tight. Therefore rendering the gun inoperable and thus no drag line on the cylinder. Sorry just couldn't resist.

[Ysabel Kid]

Never, ever "free spin" the cylinder then stop it by pulling back the hammer. This is guaranteed to cause a cylinder drag mark. Don't ask me how I know.

[KSFlatheadhunter]

Everyone,

Thanks for the information! Would you follow the same procedure for the Freedom Arms guns as the old model unaltered Ruger's?

Thanks,
Darin

Darin,

I honestly can't answer your question. I've never had any FA gun in my hand to check out. If they load on half cock, I'd say yes.

Joe

Thanks Joe. Yes, they load on half cock.

Darin

[AJMD429]

First - thanks Joe for the very helpful and detailed information. I found it interesting!

Second - as a 'shooter' vs. a 'collector' - I don't mind the 'drag line' on my gun(s); it's like any other 'wear and tear' - just means I've shot the gun a bit, or at least dry-fired it.

[olyinaz]

Polishing the bolt head can dramatically reduce the chances of getting a drag line even if you make a mistake with the handling of the gun. Stay away from the sides of the bolt, just the head.

Regards,
Oly

[Hobie]

Everyone,

Thanks for the information! Would you follow the same procedure for the Freedom Arms guns as the old model unaltered Ruger's?

Thanks,
Darin

I do the same for all three, Colt, OM Ruger, and FA. Works.

[Lastmohecken]

My Colt model Peacemaker clones have no drag marks, the main thing is if you pull the hammer back, pull it all the way to full cock, never ever let it back down without going to full cock first.

But the New Model Rugers, and all modern Smith and Wessons, in stock form, will get drag marks, if you shoot them, at least every one I ever owned or even seen that was shot any at all had drag marks. It's the timing and I don't see how drag marks can be advoided on these, unless you actually changed the timing of the bolt stop, or just bought one new, and zip tied it and never cycled it.

[J Miller]

My Colt model Peacemaker clones have no drag marks, the main thing is if you pull the hammer back, pull it all the way to full cock, never ever let it back down without going to full cock first.

But the New Model Rugers, and all modern Smith and Wessons, in stock form, will get drag marks, if you shoot them, at least every one I ever owned or even seen that was shot any at all had drag marks. It's the timing and I don't see how drag marks can be advoided on these, unless you actually changed the timing of the bolt stop, or just bought one new, and zip tied it and never cycled it.

Those drag marks caused by the design of the revolvers actions such as those you mentioned, the double action S&Ws and the New Model Rugers are not what really bothers me. These are unavoidable and normal. What I do dislike and work to avoid is the full circumference drag marks that can be avoided.
Here is another example:

J Miller's 25-5 b.JPG

This S&W 25-5 has well over 8000 rounds through it, untold thousands of dry firings as well yet is has no full drag line.

Why? Because I know how to prevent it and consciously work to keep it from happening. Unlike some who do not care about such things, I do. The full circumference drag mark is a sign of miss handling and can be prevented.

Joe

[KCSO]

The bolt timing in the Schofield is such that you are going to get a 90% dag mark no matter what but if you follow the good advise give here you can prevent it on your Colt's.

[COSteve]

Deleted

[Blackjack]

On NMBH or Vaquero, beware TRYING to alter the innards to eliminate the drag line. Doing so will very likely result in a bolt not rising high enough to securely lock up the gun. An early rising bolt on a NM ruger is a cosmetic iissue, a late rising bolt on these or any type SA revolver is a real issue, and one that might could get ya killed if it fails to lock up properly when ya really need it to. I don't mind my "insurance" rings.

Amen.

Sorry guys but I have to disagree. Ruger in designing there SA's revolvers they are more interested in function other than astectics, that said they have the cylinder latch come up in the window early in order to get " lock up" every time instead of hand fitting the cylinder latch it's called mass production.

Ok now to stop the "Drag Line" one must lengthen the cylinder latch in order for it to pop in in the window of the frame a little later ideally in the leads. The cylider latch Rises then same amount and locks up like a safe. It's timing not the amouint of rise. By lenthening the latch you delay the timing when it rises. Simply done by a competent smith. That,s the dfference of a hand fitting parts on a SA rather than mass production. Hope this helps. Phil

[J Miller]

Here is one example of what Phil is saying:

Ruger NM latch modification.jpg

By lengthening and fitting the hammer plunger end of the latch you can alter when the latch rises up.
Thus making it work like the Old Models and eliminate the drag line.

Joe