Loading for a Garand
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Loading for a Garand
Well it looks like I'm going to drop the hammer on a CMP Garand. While I wait for it's arrival I will gather loading supplies.
So, what is the preferred load for general plinking and paper punching? Don't plan on hunting with it, at least for the time being. Seems like I have heard tell of a specific powder that was used for the "Garand load", but I never much attention cuz I didn't have one. Probably use commercial brass too.
So, what is the preferred load for general plinking and paper punching? Don't plan on hunting with it, at least for the time being. Seems like I have heard tell of a specific powder that was used for the "Garand load", but I never much attention cuz I didn't have one. Probably use commercial brass too.
NRA Life Member
Re: Loading for a Garand
Powders recommend are the medium range. Such as 4895, Varget and several others. I believe Hornady reloading manual gives loading data for Garand ammo. Don't want to go for broke on bullet weight or velocity. Original loads were around 2700 fps. 150 grain bullets and 165 grain bullets. Slower powders such as 4350, 4831 puts too much pressure on gas system. I am sure some of the others here will have a more detailed and complete listings. Good Luck.
Re: Loading for a Garand
It seems that 150-155 gr. bullets with IMR 4895 is the ticket.
Sincerely,
Hobie
"We are all travelers in the wilderness of this world, and the best that we find in our travels is an honest friend." Robert Louis Stevenson
Hobie
"We are all travelers in the wilderness of this world, and the best that we find in our travels is an honest friend." Robert Louis Stevenson
- 2ndovc
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Re: Loading for a Garand
Mine likes 165 SPs or 168 FMJ/ HPs Bt Match bullets. Specifically Sierra's and IMR 4895.
Don't hot rod it. Will only damage the rifle.
I love my M1. I think I would be perfectly happy with my M1 if it was the only rifle
I could have (Lord Forbid) for the rest of my life.
jb
Don't hot rod it. Will only damage the rifle.
I love my M1. I think I would be perfectly happy with my M1 if it was the only rifle
I could have (Lord Forbid) for the rest of my life.
jb
jasonB " Another Dirty Yankee"
" Tomorrow the sun will rise. Who knows what the tide could bring?"
" Tomorrow the sun will rise. Who knows what the tide could bring?"
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Re: Loading for a Garand
+1. Its what I use and it does well. I like hornady 150's w/winchester primers. Make sure you use SB dies and above all, make sure your primers are seated all the way to avoid a slam-fire. Another powder that I have used that worked very well is 748 but that was only because I had a lot of it to play with.Hobie wrote:It seems that 150-155 gr. bullets with IMR 4895 is the ticket.
Re: Loading for a Garand
Alright then, looks like I need to pick up some 4895. Thanks to all.
NRA Life Member
Re: Loading for a Garand
I haven't reloaded any 30-06 for my Garands, the Greek surplus the CMP sells is cheaper than I can load them for. Plus save the brass and when it runs out, I will reload that.
Steve
Steve
Re: Loading for a Garand
Steve makes an excellent point. Get a few cans of that Greek ball if you can afford it. Some comes clipped and the price is reasonable for what is really good ammo specifically for the Garand.
Sincerely,
Hobie
"We are all travelers in the wilderness of this world, and the best that we find in our travels is an honest friend." Robert Louis Stevenson
Hobie
"We are all travelers in the wilderness of this world, and the best that we find in our travels is an honest friend." Robert Louis Stevenson
Re: Loading for a Garand
I pulled up the May-June, 1989 issue of Handloader magazine (Handloader No. 139) in which are some handloads for the M1 Garand are printed.
Here are a few suggestions from the above source. All loads were put up in Lake City cases and Federal 210 primers. Overall cartridge length was 3.32 inches.
With the 150 grain Sierra Match King, the article suggested 48 grains of of IMR-4895 (the classic load); 52 grains of IMR-4064; 52 grains of W-748; 46 grains of H-322; and 49 grains of AAC-2520. Velocities were in the 2700 to 2800 fps range.
With the 168 grain Sierra Match King, the article suugested 46.5 grains of IMR-4895; 47 grains of H-4895; 48 grains of IMR-4064; 49 grains of H-380; and 46 grains of AAC-2520. Velocities were in the 2600 to 2700 fps range.
I hope this helps. I suggest you find the original source before you start reloading. Never assume suggested loads are correct. Check at least two independent sources.
Here are a few suggestions from the above source. All loads were put up in Lake City cases and Federal 210 primers. Overall cartridge length was 3.32 inches.
With the 150 grain Sierra Match King, the article suggested 48 grains of of IMR-4895 (the classic load); 52 grains of IMR-4064; 52 grains of W-748; 46 grains of H-322; and 49 grains of AAC-2520. Velocities were in the 2700 to 2800 fps range.
With the 168 grain Sierra Match King, the article suugested 46.5 grains of IMR-4895; 47 grains of H-4895; 48 grains of IMR-4064; 49 grains of H-380; and 46 grains of AAC-2520. Velocities were in the 2600 to 2700 fps range.
I hope this helps. I suggest you find the original source before you start reloading. Never assume suggested loads are correct. Check at least two independent sources.
Re: Loading for a Garand
I thought about going that route as well, but I don't know anything about that ammo, how the brass is for reloading, etc. I see that gibrass has new LC Match brass for a very good price too.SteveR wrote:I haven't reloaded any 30-06 for my Garands, the Greek surplus the CMP sells is cheaper than I can load them for. Plus save the brass and when it runs out, I will reload that.
Steve
NRA Life Member
Re: Loading for a Garand
The Greek brass is very. very good. Plus the primers are not "pinned" in like LC and other GI ammo. So the primer pocket doesn't have to be reamed out to put in a new primer. It is worth just to shoot even if you dont save to reload, but it is very well worth reloading.
Steve
Steve
Re: Loading for a Garand
The others have nailed it with 150 gr bullets and 4895 powder. Look no further.
As for the rifle itself, here's some inspection points I wrote up for another forum:
If you don't have a muzzle wear gauge, take a loaded 30-06 cartridge and insert the bullet end of the cartridge into the muzzle of the rifle(s). If there's less than 1/8" to 3/16" of bullet showing between the muzzle and the cartridge case mouth, or ESPECIALLY if the bullet completely disappears into the muzzle and the case mouth stops against the crown, I'd recommend moving on to the next rifle in the rack. Unless of course you want to spend another $200-$350 to purchase and install a new barrel.
Twist the sight adjusting knobs and if any rifle exhibits sight knobs that are easily adjusted without sharp, distinct clicks use a screwdriver to just slightly tighten the slotted screw in the one knob and try again. If the knobs still move without much of a detent, reject that particular weapon.
While on sights, if the rear sight leaf wobbles from side to side at all, the rifle may need a new rear sight cover at best, or the rear leaf guide ways are worn at worst.
Holding the weapon with the right hand on the stock wrist and at a 45 degree angle upward and to the left, reach under the weapon and hook the left thumb on the op rod handle and vigorously haul back on the op rod. You should hear a "latch" sound and the bolt and op rod should be latched to the rear. The lower edge of the bolt should NOT be contacting the rear end of the follower. If it is, haul back on the op rod handle until the bolt is latched rearward and NOT contacting the follower. If this latching action does not happen, and the bolt moves forward to contact the follower, BE CAREFUL because the bolt could slam into battery at any moment. The failure to latch indicates a major issue with the op rod, op rod catch, and possibly the clip release spring. You'll probably need some replacement parts.
To release the op rod and bolt, brace the butt against the front of your right thigh and haul back on the op rod with the right thumb. Holding the op rod handle back, press slightly down on the cartridge follower with the left thumb, and EASE the op rod handle forward over the follower. REMOVE YOUR LEFT THUMB and contunue to control the op rod handle to allow the bolt to travel forward into battery. Engage the safety lever by pressing the forward edge of it to the rear towards the trigger guard and into the TG. The safety should "snap" into the safe position with a distinct detent. Push the safety forward to the "fire" position and note if the hammer falls. If the hammer does not fall, point the weapon in a safe direction and pull the trigger to release the hammer and test the FCG.
Noah
As for the rifle itself, here's some inspection points I wrote up for another forum:
If you don't have a muzzle wear gauge, take a loaded 30-06 cartridge and insert the bullet end of the cartridge into the muzzle of the rifle(s). If there's less than 1/8" to 3/16" of bullet showing between the muzzle and the cartridge case mouth, or ESPECIALLY if the bullet completely disappears into the muzzle and the case mouth stops against the crown, I'd recommend moving on to the next rifle in the rack. Unless of course you want to spend another $200-$350 to purchase and install a new barrel.
Twist the sight adjusting knobs and if any rifle exhibits sight knobs that are easily adjusted without sharp, distinct clicks use a screwdriver to just slightly tighten the slotted screw in the one knob and try again. If the knobs still move without much of a detent, reject that particular weapon.
While on sights, if the rear sight leaf wobbles from side to side at all, the rifle may need a new rear sight cover at best, or the rear leaf guide ways are worn at worst.
Holding the weapon with the right hand on the stock wrist and at a 45 degree angle upward and to the left, reach under the weapon and hook the left thumb on the op rod handle and vigorously haul back on the op rod. You should hear a "latch" sound and the bolt and op rod should be latched to the rear. The lower edge of the bolt should NOT be contacting the rear end of the follower. If it is, haul back on the op rod handle until the bolt is latched rearward and NOT contacting the follower. If this latching action does not happen, and the bolt moves forward to contact the follower, BE CAREFUL because the bolt could slam into battery at any moment. The failure to latch indicates a major issue with the op rod, op rod catch, and possibly the clip release spring. You'll probably need some replacement parts.
To release the op rod and bolt, brace the butt against the front of your right thigh and haul back on the op rod with the right thumb. Holding the op rod handle back, press slightly down on the cartridge follower with the left thumb, and EASE the op rod handle forward over the follower. REMOVE YOUR LEFT THUMB and contunue to control the op rod handle to allow the bolt to travel forward into battery. Engage the safety lever by pressing the forward edge of it to the rear towards the trigger guard and into the TG. The safety should "snap" into the safe position with a distinct detent. Push the safety forward to the "fire" position and note if the hammer falls. If the hammer does not fall, point the weapon in a safe direction and pull the trigger to release the hammer and test the FCG.
Noah
Might as well face it, you're addicted to guns . . .
Re: Loading for a Garand
Thanks for the info Noah, but I ordered from the CMP. I'll take what they send me. I ordered a Service Grade Springfield, so going by their description of the different grades, it should be pretty decent.
NRA Life Member
Re: Loading for a Garand
While in my experience the Service Grade rifles I got from CMP were decent, you do NOT have to be satisfied with what they send you if there are legit issues with it. Sure, you can't complain about some dents in the stock, but CMP will take care of problem guns.TedH wrote: . . . I ordered from the CMP. I'll take what they send me . . .
Best,
Noah
Might as well face it, you're addicted to guns . . .
Re: Loading for a Garand
I ordered one of the SA Service grade, and it was absolutely pristine! Looks like it was never shot, it was all matching and dated to from the Korean War era. CMP are good folks, you might want to check out there forums, they have a good bunch over there.TedH wrote:Thanks for the info Noah, but I ordered from the CMP. I'll take what they send me. I ordered a Service Grade Springfield, so going by their description of the different grades, it should be pretty decent.
Steve
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Re: Loading for a Garand
M2 Ball duplicate load
47.5 grains/4895/150 spire jacketed bullet/GI cases
M72 Match and Sniper duplicate load
46 grains/4895/172 grain GI match bullet/GI match cases
Notes:
1. Always full length resize cases
2. Always make certain primers are seated flush or slightly below the case head
3. Never use powders slower than 4895 or thereabouts
4. GI 172 match bullets are pretty sorry in the accuracy department
5. You can substitute the 168 Sierra match bullet for top notch results
6. Although others may tell you to, don't use bullets heavier than 172 grains in the Garand rifle.
47.5 grains/4895/150 spire jacketed bullet/GI cases
M72 Match and Sniper duplicate load
46 grains/4895/172 grain GI match bullet/GI match cases
Notes:
1. Always full length resize cases
2. Always make certain primers are seated flush or slightly below the case head
3. Never use powders slower than 4895 or thereabouts
4. GI 172 match bullets are pretty sorry in the accuracy department
5. You can substitute the 168 Sierra match bullet for top notch results
6. Although others may tell you to, don't use bullets heavier than 172 grains in the Garand rifle.
Re: Loading for a Garand
I received confirmation last week that the three Service Grade Garands I ordered are due to be shipped in 30-60 days. I already have several Xs of Greek ball, so shooting should be fun later in the summer.
"Congressmen who willfully take actions during wartime that damage morale, and undermine the military are saboteurs and should be arrested, exiled or hanged"....President Abraham Lincoln
Re: Loading for a Garand
SteveR wrote:I ordered one of the SA Service grade, and it was absolutely pristine! Looks like it was never shot, it was all matching and dated to from the Korean War era. CMP are good folks, you might want to check out there forums, they have a good bunch over there.TedH wrote:Thanks for the info Noah, but I ordered from the CMP. I'll take what they send me. I ordered a Service Grade Springfield, so going by their description of the different grades, it should be pretty decent.
Steve
Well that's encouraging! I can't wait! I tried to order some of the Greek ammo last night, but I guess they don't have me in the system yet.
NRA Life Member
Re: Loading for a Garand
For all you Garand guys...is there any truth to the fact that double based powders burned up the gas port on earlier Garands until they changed the location of the gas port?
Ed
Ed
Re: Loading for a Garand
Although my Garands were ordered less than a month ago, they are due to arrive by 1000 this morning. It is now 0900 here in sunny and hot CA.
"Congressmen who willfully take actions during wartime that damage morale, and undermine the military are saboteurs and should be arrested, exiled or hanged"....President Abraham Lincoln
Re: Loading for a Garand
Good deal! Be sure to let us see what they look like.
I sent in my order on the 15th, they received it on the 17th, got my DBU on the 23rd. So I guess I still have a couple more weeks of waiting. I feel like when I was a kid and mailed in the cereal box tops for a toy or gadget, and waited by the mailbox for weeks!
I sent in my order on the 15th, they received it on the 17th, got my DBU on the 23rd. So I guess I still have a couple more weeks of waiting. I feel like when I was a kid and mailed in the cereal box tops for a toy or gadget, and waited by the mailbox for weeks!
NRA Life Member
Re: Loading for a Garand
True to their word, the rifles arrived this AM. My cousins were here in town after Joey's wife delivered a 8 lb 3oz boy at 0012 this morning. There were three boxes, so we each selected one at random as ours. All are in excellent condition, with wood that has normal usage marks, but better than we expected. Mine has a strange marked disc attached to the stock that may have been part of a sighting device, but I haven't a clue. It doesn't bother me at all 'cause this gun is just a shooter, not a "collector" rifle. The bore looks great, has no pits and lots of shine. I'll know more after the gun is torn down for inspection. My buddies called me last night and I gave 'em to OK to go down to our ranch and shoot their M-1s. Too bad, so sad, that I'm unable to join in the fun.
"Congressmen who willfully take actions during wartime that damage morale, and undermine the military are saboteurs and should be arrested, exiled or hanged"....President Abraham Lincoln
Re: Loading for a Garand
Looks real nice Mike. Hope mine's as good when it shows up. From what I've been reading on the CMP forum there are a lot of nice Service Grades coming out now. Some are shipping with new production wood too.
NRA Life Member
Re: Loading for a Garand
I have stripped it down and found that all parts are in excellent condition. The gun is now ready to rock 'n roll. I just may pick a couple more in a month, or so.
"Congressmen who willfully take actions during wartime that damage morale, and undermine the military are saboteurs and should be arrested, exiled or hanged"....President Abraham Lincoln
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Re: Loading for a Garand
Looks like a grenade sight base attached to your M1. Good looking rifle.