Winchester 94 Trigger Job

tcomer · Post by **tcomer** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 2:14 pm

I want to try and do a trigger job on my '94. First off, it's a '75 model in the 424XXXX serial range. It has the two, flat type spring setup. I saw a post a while back and it said to narrow the main spring. It made no reference to the fact the gun has two springs. The main spring is wide at the rear and tapers until the hook on the hammer end. Most of the tension seems to be in the short spring that is under it. The more I look at this, the more I wonder if the post I saw was about this style gun. I'll not try and take the creep out as I have no skill at sear angles, but I'd like lighten it up some. Any ideas or am I best to leave this project alone?

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 2:50 pm

tcomer,

I look at trigger jobs different from most people. And that causes me no ends of trouble.

First of all I do not do my own trigger jobs. I should really start though.

Second, I tell the gunsmith; DO NOT CUT, REPLACE, OR ALTER THE FACTORY SPRINGS IN ANY WAY.
99% of trigger jobs can be done, and should be done, by re working the sear and hammer notches on these guns. Simply reducing the spring tension will sometimes reduce the trigger pull weight, but it leaves you a crappy pull.

The last lever gun I had a trigger job done on was my 1980 Trapper. I told the gunsmith what I said above and asked for a 2.5 lb trigger pull. That was in 1980. This Trapper still has a 2.5 lb trigger pull and it never misses a beat.

What you need to do is study the hammer and sear mating surfaces and lightly polish them to smooth them up. Do not remove any metal unless you are positive what you are doing.

That will probably do wonders for it.

As for reducing the tension on the big spring I have backed off the small spring tension screw on some of my older 94s. It does work. Just make sure the screw doesn't back out as you shoot the gun.

Joe

tcomer · Post by **tcomer** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 3:25 pm

Backing off the screw â€œtroublesâ€

Tycer · Post by **Tycer** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 5:36 pm

They were talking about thinning the longer spring. I think the shorter spring helps keep the flex point away from the screw. You can thin it in either direction. Don't get it hot and screw up it's temper.

tcomer · Post by **tcomer** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 10:09 am

Guess I'll have to live with it. I'm more of a parts replacer type of guy anyway. There are no smiths in my area and I don't want the hassle of shipping the gun. Only gave a hundred bucks for it back in '99. Didn't shoot it much as I have a bum shoulder. Then I found out about the reduced loads in 30-30 and now I'm having fun with it.

Caco · Post by **Caco** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 10:58 am

Adjust the screw-thats what its for. use a dab of blue locktite-the least powerful. Still screw driver movable. If you are going to hunt with it especially in cold weather you might add 1/4th to 1/2 turn to make shure it will fire.
Dave

tcomer · Post by **tcomer** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 11:48 am

I might play with that screw now that I know it can be done. I don't hunt and I can take the stock off to check it fairly easily. I was worried the gun might go bang when I didn't want it to. That short, lower spring seems to be the main culprit and backing that screw out would release some of the tension. Of course this won't take out the long trigger travel. I can deal with that as long as the pull is a little bit lighter. I was hesitant to even grind on the springs as so far as I've not stumbled on to a place that sells replacements in case I botched the job. Grinding on the little spring seems to make more sense to me. But with a spring that short, my luck it would break the first time I pulled the hammer back.