Pyrodex lever carbine loads

[Jimbo]

Anybody out there got a good plinking load using pyrodex CTG in a 44 mag lever? I have some 200 grain cast bullets I want to use, but have some questions as to what primer to use with it.

[Hobie]

Fill the case to the base of the bullet. Don't use a petroleum based bullet lube.

[w30wcf]

Based on my experience reloading Pyrodex in the .44-40, I would suggest using the amount of Pyrodex that will allow 1/8 to 3/16" of compression with your 200 gr. bullet. I had spoken with the Hodgdon's ballistic lab close to 10 years ago when I first loaded Pyrodex and that was their suggestion.

I would suggest that you dump the powder into the case from a powder pan through a funnel, taking about 4-5 seconds to do so, to get the most powder into the case.

Primers - standard large pistol primers work fine.

Regarding the lube, I found that bullets lubed with the NRA formula (50% alox/50% beeswax - soft lube smokeless formula) worked fine. Most of the commercial bullets are lubed with a harder lube so as Hobie indicated, may not work as well.

w30wcf

[Jimbo]

Guess I'll have to find some of the blackpowder type lube. I've seen some of the cast bullet sellers that lube with that. You hate to see good powder go to waste, but maybe its more expensive to get all the right ingredients.

[Griff]

John is right about the sight compression. Pyrodex Ctg isn't "real" robust, and a few extra grains will be appreciated. But... DO NOT use a petroleum based lube. It will make cleaning much harder. For just a few rounds... maybe, to get rid of some unwanted powder... but it'd be better in a shotshell; at least you'd use it up quicker!

Whatever you do... make sure to clean the rifle immediately after use... then clean it again... then clean it the morning after, the next afternoon and at least once more a few days later. Take it out and check it again the next week. Oil it well after cleaning; to the point of being gummy. When you clean use VERY hot water, not lukewarm... HOT! Then oil as quickly as possible.

Personally, I believe Pyrodex is more corrosive than real BP. Ergo, my caution when cleaning afterwards. I used it in a Sharps and it was always giving me fits by having recurring "fuzz" in the barrel a few days after shooting. Stopped using Pyro, and viola... no more problems. But, I'm just one nut with a opinion.

[Rusty]

Most everyone I know prefers real Black over pyrodex for those reasons, rust.

Some folks wouldn't take it if you gave it to them.

I think I still have two pounds on the bench and I don't even know where they came from.

[Cliff]

I have found the rusting is a problem. I also found that oiling the rifle after use with pyrodex it is best to use ATF. Never had a rusting problem since. But be certain to clean it as described first. ATF appears to stay and is one of the best gun oils for this use. ATB

[Nath]

The rust will occure easier than from BP yes but in it's defense not a deep rust if treated again quickly.
Send a smokeless round down when your done, that'll get rid of the bulk of soot.

I love using pyro in my 12g. A couple of damp patches through first to remove most of the deposits. In that 44 a small funnel and some pipe into the chamber would help get the boiling water through the bore. Half a gallon should do it. The hot barrel will dry it self.
Enjoy the smoke and as said compress it a little, some folk use grease cookies betwixt powder and bullet.

Nath.

[Jimbo]

Your comments have me half convinced to give the pyrodex away rather than try and use it. But then again maybe I'm a glutton for punishment.

[Griff]

Your comments have me half convinced to give the pyrodex away rather than try and use it. But then again maybe I'm a glutton for punishment.

Nay... Like Nath said... clean it good and re-clean a while later to make sure you got all the fouling out. However, unlike a smoothbore, I wouldn't advise sending a smokeless round down the barrel after the Pyro. I think it has too great a potential for crusting the fouling over in a groove, making it just that much harder to clean the fouling completely out. I've been advised both ways... but, my personal experience is, that it's harder to clean after shooting a smokeless round (jacketed or lead) after shooting BP.

[olyinaz]

Consider loading some cartridges with Blackhorn 209 if you want to see some smoke and hear the boom. Unlike Pyrodex or the other black powder substitutes it's non-hygroscopic (does not attract and hold water), is non-corrosive (no more or less than any other grime in your gun), leaves far less crud and residue than Pyrodex or black powder and can be cleaned up using normal gun cleaning products.

The maker even publishes loading data for cartridges at their web site. Google it and check it out if you're feeling experimental.

Best,
Oly

[w30wcf]

I cheat and just clean by just shooting smokeless cartridges afterwards.

w30wcf

[Hobie]

I cheat and just clean by just shooting smokeless cartridges afterwards.

w30wcf

So do I.

[olyinaz]

I cheat and just clean by just shooting smokeless cartridges afterwards.

I wouldn't think that this would completely remove (or neutralize as ammonia does) all of the corrosive salts from your rifle?

Oly

[Hobie]

I gets most of the stuff out and then I run a couple of patches and lube. Worked on my 1876 SRC.

[Tumbleweeds II]

Hodgdon's web site has a page of Pyrodex loads for cartridges, and a page for 777 loads for cartridges. I think a 200 grain .44 mag needs 30 grains of Pyrodex, but I don't have it before me.

I would use that powder in a revolver or shotgun if it were mine. Straight walled cartridges permit too much fouling into the action of a lever gun, unlike a .44-40 with the super thin case walls that will do a better job of sealing the fouling in the barrel.

[Nath]

Hodgdon's web site has a page of Pyrodex loads for cartridges, and a page for 777 loads for cartridges. I think a 200 grain .44 mag needs 30 grains of Pyrodex, but I don't have it before me.

I would use that powder in a revolver or shotgun if it were mine. Straight walled cartridges permit too much fouling into the action of a lever gun, unlike a .44-40 with the super thin case walls that will do a better job of sealing the fouling in the barrel.

That is a fair point, I forgot that one!!

N.

[Old Time Hunter]

Just wash it out with hot water and soap, after swabbing the barrel with a citrus patch, then a little bore butter. All done.

[Jimbo]

Thanks for the suggestions. I have a lot more information than I started out wit.