Checklist for Examining pre-64 M 1894

[North Bender]

Hello:

Could someone who has a few minutes put together a checklist of the things to look for when examining an older Winchester M94? Where are the serial numbers that should match, etc. I have a couple of these to look at and I'd appreciate some advice.

[J Miller]

Hello:

Could someone who has a few minutes put together a checklist of the things to look for when examining an older Winchester M94? Where are the serial numbers that should match, etc. I have a couple of these to look at and I'd appreciate some advice.

North Bender,

>To my knowledge which is dependent on those Win 94s I've owned and handled the serial number is only located on the bottom of the receiver just forward of the link. This is true for all Win 94s made prior to the AE models.
>There are proof and inspection marks usually found on the bottom of the upper tang and the lower tang.
On the bottom of the barrel adjacent the receiver in the grove for the magazine tube will be the date the barrel was made, usually but not always matches the year the serial number indicates. Some also have a code for who made the barrel steel. These marks were left off the post-64s.

>Basically look for buggered up screws.
>Cracks in the wood. That isn't always a cause for worry, but something to look for.
>Check for rust in hidden places. Many of these old guns have never been taken apart for a good cleaning and oiling.
>Check for non factory alterations, extra screw holes, non factory screws, visual damage - scratches, gouges, rust pits, or excessive polishing. Excessive polishing could indicate a bad refinish job, or an attempt to make a badly rusted gun look presentable.
>Looseness of the action. A really worn pre-64 will rattle like a new post-64. That isn't always bad, but it could be a sign of internal problems as well.
>Open the action all the way and listen for the "clack" the carrier will make when it pops up. Then reach in and gently press the carrier down. If it is under pressure and doesn't move until it snaps down that indicates the carrier and it's spring are in good shape. If it looks dry inside see if you can move the carrier fore and aft, or up and down at the rear. You shouldn't. But if it can be moved that's an indication the carrier screws are badly worn. ( I've actually replaced a set on one 1894 SRC that were almost worn off.)
>Check the lever to link screw for wear.
>Check the link to receiver pin for wear.
>Check the lever to bolt pin for wear. Sometimes this is hard, but if you open the action partially and hold the lever firmly the bolt should not move fore and aft more than a couple thousands.
(I've seen the lever to bolt pins actually cut almost in half due to lack of lube. - Same 1894 SRC as the carrier screws. )
>Check the firing pin, extractor, and ejector. Open the action all the way. Push the firing pin up from the rear and examine the end of it . It should be smooth and rounded, and should move freely inside the bolt. Pitted and or sharp ended firing pins can cause pierced primers. ( I replaced one once that had a hole drilled in the front of the firing pin and a nail stuck in it . - Same 1894 SRC as the carrier screws. )
Check the hook on the extractor. It should be sharp and have a good tension on it.
Check the ejector. That's the spring loaded gizmo on the bottom of the bolt. It should be under spring pressure, but should yield with strong finger pressure.
Check the face of the bolt. If it's badly puckered around the firing pin hole it could mean lots of wear from lots of shooting, or lots of dry firing.
>Close the action. The lever should latch securely. Shake the gun side to side a bit. The lever should not fall open even a little bit. If it does not latch tight the friction stud is probably jammed into it's bore. A fixable problem, but one to be aware of.
>Check the bore. Check for pits, wear at the muzzle, check the crown for damage. if the gun is a 30-30 and it's got a so-so bore, but the muzzle and crown are good chances are the gun will shoot decently.
>Check the sights. They should be in good shape at the least. If this is an older 94 they might not be OEM, but they should still be in good shape.
>If you're buying the gun for a shooter don't put too much stock in the finish wear. Many of these guns were carried much more than fired and the finish will look horrible. But that is only skin deep.




That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. Hope it helps some.

Joe

[jazman]

Dang Joe, good advice for all of us. You ought to be working in a gun shop, be a natural fit.

[North Bender]

Joe, I very much appreciate your considered reply!

[J Miller]

Dang Joe, good advice for all of us. You ought to be working in a gun shop, be a natural fit.

jazman,
I've applied at several gun stores over the years, but so far no luck on getting on. I'd love it though. Been a gun person since I was 13 or 14 and I'd love to put what I know to good use.

North Bender,
You are very welcome. Any thing else I can help with just holler.


Joe

[Pete44ru]

[That's about all I can think of off the top of my head.]

> Check the price tag, and don't be afraid to dicker the price down.

Before you dicker, though, jes be sure to create value/interest with the seller before you talk price - elsewise, you'll never win.