Slicking up a Win 94?

[L_Kilkenny]

Told you boys, not wasting any time here. Here come the questions....LOL.

What should I be looking to do to slick up the action of a 94 Ranger and getting the trigger up to snuff? Any basic stuff or resource I should be doing? Dryfireing? Plenty of couch time cycling the action? I know it does wonders with hand guns and am assuming the same will go for the 94. What about the step above the basics?

Thanks all,
LK

[DerekR]

I ordered a set of reduced power springs from Wolff for my 94AE. They sell a set with a 13 and 15 lb spring, IIRC. I used the 13 lb and I have had complete reliability, but if you don't have such luck you can step up the the 15lb spring. Big improvement with not much effort or money.

http://www.gunsprings.com/1ndex.html

[C. Cash]

For slicking up the action, I'd just shoot the tar out of it. It should smooth up in time just fine. Lube the pin that connects the lever to the bolt by removing the BIG screw on the left side(make sure you keep the rifle laying on it's right side, so that the pin does not slide out when your not looking, keep action closed while doing this and the pin will be visable). Also, use a screwdriver which fits properly so you don't bugger up the screw. One or two drops of a fine gun oil there(replace Big screw)...lightly lube at all the friction points, including the underside of the bolt where it goes over the hammer to cock it. Personally I try to avoid any excess lube between the locking lug and the back of the bolt where they meet. Should be good to go.

[Jaguarundi]

Unless you want to change that fireing pin(after you break it)you should refrain from dryfireing on a empty chamber on a Levergun.Use a snap-cap dummy round(like Pachmayr A-Zoom Snap-Caps for example)or just shoot it allot with live ammo.

[kimwcook]

Like Jaguarundi said, if'n you don't want to be replacing the firing pin, no dryfiring.

[J Miller]

Well, I'll add this to what C. Cash, Jaguarundi, and kimwcook said.

If you are knowledgeable, take it apart and clean all the junk out of it. If it's never been cleaned inside you could find anything from metal particles to cat hair. You never know. I bought one once that had pine tree needles inside of the action.

After it's cleaned, lube it real good but not excessively. C.Cash mentioned the lever to bolt pin, that is important, but if you have an oil bottle with an applicator tube you don't need to remove the screw to oil it. Just lay it on the left side and put the oil in the tiny hole on the right side of the receiver across from the screw.
Another oft forgotten place to lube is the carrier pivot screw. You can get to this one from underneath with the action open. I also put a spot of grease on the carrier spring bearing surface.

Then shoot it, and clean it as necessary. The rebounding hammer action will never be as smooth as your old top eject trapper. There's just too much junk in that action to allow it. It will smooth up though, they all do.

Joe

[L_Kilkenny]

Good to know about the firing pin. I was of a thinkin that all centerfires are safe to dryfire. Learn something new everyday.

I might get a snap cap. Never seen one last very many rounds though.

What about the trigger?

LK

[J Miller]

The trigger can be improved but you have to be careful with it. Since the hammer rebounds away from the firing pin it does not impart to it as solid a blow as the half cock action hammer does.
You need to polish everything that makes contact and moves against something before you cut or replace any springs. You can get the springs too light real easy on these.


Joe

[Slick13]

Told you boys, not wasting any time here. Here come the questions....LOL.

What should I be looking to do to slick up the action of a 94 Ranger and getting the trigger up to snuff? Any basic stuff or resource I should be doing? Dryfireing? Plenty of couch time cycling the action? I know it does wonders with hand guns and am assuming the same will go for the 94. What about the step above the basics?

Thanks all,
LK

Start with a lighter Wolf spring. I put a 13 lb one in my .25-35 94AE, and it helped quite a bit, but I could only reliably use loads with Federal primers. Winchesters worked most of the time, CCIs failed half the time.

Took the rebounding hammer out and replaced with with older half cock parts, and trigger pulled dropped down to under 3 lbs. Haven't shot the gun much since then, but that light of a trigger is spooky, and I may put a 15 lb spring in.

~Michael

[20cows]

First-

You need to polish everything that makes contact and moves against something...

... including the underside of the bolt where it rides over the hammer.

If you're still not happy, switch to a half-cock trigger/hamer group (there are three systems).