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I'm new here so hope this is acceptable.
I have modified my Win 1886 LW to eliminate the rebounding hammer per instructions found here. (Boy I wish some one had mentioned how difficult it is to get the hammer screw back in, a 30 minute job turned into almost 3 hours.)
I have been trying to locate a source for the Browning style hammer that doesn't have the safety cutout as mentioned in the articles. So far, no joy If anyone knows of a source for the part, I'd be grateful.
"Congressmen who willfully take actions during wartime that damage morale, and undermine the military are saboteurs and should be arrested, exiled or hanged"....President Abraham Lincoln
Man that is a real SPROING! moment when that spring comes out of there but there's a little hole in the spring carrier? that you can get a finishing nail sized piece into. This will hold the spring in place and no Sproing! Just take the butstock off and play with the hammer and you will see the hole when the hammer is cocked. Hope this helps and let me know about the Browning hammer when you find one.
If I remember correctly, the Browning hammer is right around $70. To makr it work correctly with the Winchester/Miruku model, a one piece Browning trigger/sear should be also purchased to compliment the hammer. It is an easy installation and gets rid of those little springs, pin and silly two piece trigger and sear.
"Congressmen who willfully take actions during wartime that damage morale, and undermine the military are saboteurs and should be arrested, exiled or hanged"....President Abraham Lincoln
I've gotta get off my duff and do the same thing. Then all I'll have to do is find a smith that'll weld the tang safety up and finish the job. I know, I know, the liabilities. But, I won't tell.
I forgot to mention one thing that may be of interest to 86 rebound owners. I took mine apart and reversed the piece of metal that is split into two fingers under the hammer. This makes it non rebounding BUT with hotter loads primers began to pierce. Now before you hurl the reckless hotrodder at me. Know that all cases were measured for expansion with a mic for pressure and all were within limits determined by factory load expansion readings. They were also loads given for marlin strength actions and weren't max loads. After this happened a few times the end of the pin was cut and off by gas and had to be replaced($300 installed). The hammer was set to rebound again and no further problems with primers. If you look at the firing pin it protrudes out the back of the bolt by spring tension. I will make a guess that after setting off the primer it rebounds back into the hammer (that is no longer out of the way) and is then shot forward again into the primer a second time? The primers were CCI large rifle and Rem 2.5 large pistol. One thing that doesn't jive with this theory is the 4 Model 71s in my basement that have the same type of rearward spring tension on their firing pins and non rebounding type hammers (never a primer prob). One thing of interest is that I didn't have any idea the primer was breached until the case was ejected ie. no gas in the face (thank God) this is probably due to the excellent design of these great rifles........ By the way what better safety is there than an exposed 3 position hammer?
If anyone knows of a source for the part, I'd be grateful.
