I think the 94 is going to have to go.
I have tried 4 bullet types in it.
Five types of powder and three types of primer.
New brass old brass and a fancy seater die.
Worked the trigger.
Clean barrel dirty barrel and the Lord knows how many differant loads.
It will not hold zero.
It'll put two together and then a flyer on a cold barrel or hot.
It can shoot a 2" group and then with the same load go to 4".
I've had enough, It's got me beat.
Nath.
I have had enough!
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Please post political post in the new Politics forum.
I have had enough!
Psalm ch8.
Because I wish I could!
Because I wish I could!
Re: I have had enough!
Sorry to hear about your troubles, Nath. Been there myself and had a couple of firesticks that just wouldn't shoot well no matter what I threw down them. That being said, if this rifle can consistently put the 1st couple of rounds inside 2" from a cold barrel, it sounds like its still good enough for what it was originally designed to do...bring down game at relatively close ranges. I think you're still good to go in that case.
What about commercial loads? My Marlin 336 prefers Hornady's Leverlution over anything else...including handloads. Go figure.
But remember that old adage....only accurate guns are interesting.
Good luck.
What about commercial loads? My Marlin 336 prefers Hornady's Leverlution over anything else...including handloads. Go figure.
But remember that old adage....only accurate guns are interesting.
Good luck.
Some people just need a sympathetic pat on the head.....with a hammer. Repeatedly.
-
Old Ironsights
- Posting leader...
- Posts: 15084
- Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:27 am
- Location: Waiting for the Collapse
- Contact:
Re: I have had enough!
You could try a different barrel... better than messing with your firearms certificates...
C2N14... because life is not energetic enough.
מנא, מנא, תקל, ופרסין Daniel 5:25-28... Got 7.62?
Not Depressed enough yet? Go read National Geographic, July 1976
Gott und Gewehr mit uns!
מנא, מנא, תקל, ופרסין Daniel 5:25-28... Got 7.62?
Not Depressed enough yet? Go read National Geographic, July 1976
Gott und Gewehr mit uns!
-
Hagler
- Senior Levergunner
- Posts: 1521
- Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2007 12:52 am
- Location: Leverland, U.S.A.
- Contact:
Re: I have had enough!
Nath,
All that I can think of is that something must be loose. Similarly, something could be binding.
Paco wrote a little on shooting forces & binding forces in this article, which is actually from his book:
http://www.leverguns.com/articles/paco/chapter23.htm
"SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING BLUE, SOMETHING NEW...
They all can be made to shoot MOA...
CHAPTER TWENTY THREE
LEVERGUNS
ACCURACY SYSTEMS
Things needed:
a drill with at least a 1/4 inch bit
a piece of hardened 1/4" drill rod
fine grit sandpaper, gritcloth is better
a piece of largest diameter wooden dowel that will fit in your drill's chuck
hacksaw with fine blade
round file fine tooth 1/4 inch body
fast setup epoxy, for steel and wood
vise on a workbench
Gaining accuracy in a leveraction rifle is really not much different than doing it in a bolt action. The principles are the same. There is no mystery, it is just that most folks take if for granted that 3 to 5 inches at 100 yards is normal and you have to live with it. That is utter nonsense....first of all on today's market there is not one brand of leveraction, one style, or one make that won't generally shoot into less than 2 inches with the right ammo. Some few individual guns (lemons) may go into larger groups...but bolt actions have the same problems with the unusual stinker in a group.
In the 1930s leverguns were tested with10 shot groups with target scopes of the day, and even then groups hovered over the 1 1/2 to 2 inch group mark.. since then leverguns have been getting better and better. Today USRAC makes the barrel and the chamber and the rifling all at once....out of the box my 356XTR went into less than 1 inch at one hundred yards. And with a hard cast 220 grain bullet or a Speer 180 spirepoint and Reloader 7 powder my 200 yard groups were under 2 inches. I'm not even going to touch it for better accuracy except for trigger work, they all need trigger work, and floating the barrel.
Say What? Float a levergun barrel?
You bet! First lets go down the list of thing that affect the accuracy of the leverguns ......
Numero uno is the cleaning wear at the muzzle of these fine guns. When I clean a levergun I take a cut-off case like the shoulder and neck section of a .30-30 and put it in the muzzle of my .32 Specials like a funnel... that saves the crown from cleaning rod wear. A tight necked .30-30 case section will do the .30-30. I use a fired and slightly opened .32 Special case section for the .356's and .358's, a fired .358 section for the .375 .. you get the idea. If the wear is already there, then the gun has to be recrowned. That is a job for the gunsmith. Tell him to go back as far as necessary ... I like an 11 degree crown from the bore out, instead of the normal rounded shape. The 11 degree is a target crown cut.
I know a few fella's that really keep their guns in fine shape. Always cleaning and tightening screws and such ... nothing wrong with all that if you are careful about some unexpected problems. the cleaning wear we already spoke of .. but tightening barrel bands and the screw at the end of the loading tube can lead to inaccuracy. Have you ever heard of the problems bolt action rifles have if the a hunk of wood INSIDE the forearm presses against the barrel? It causes a pressure point, and as the barrel heats from firing and expands it moves more away from that touch point, giving lousy groups at the target. The same idea holds true for barrel bands and for that first front screw in the tube into the underside of the barrel behind the crown.
Let's take that screw first ... turn your rifle over and look at it. Just a hole through the tube and a screw into the barrel at the crown. Simple. If the tube is too tight a fit for the barrel it becomes a pain in the rear end of accuracy. There has to be room for expansion of the barrel, and at the muzzle the most movement occurs. If it's tight the tube pulls down on the barrel as it heats up and stringing of the shots is the usual result.
It's easy to fix. A gunsmith can cut a dovetail cut into the bottom of the barrel right where the screw hole is...he then puts a piece of hardened dovetailed steel into that cut. The steel has been drilled and tapped for a larger hole and screw....the hole in the tube is cut a little larger than the new screw, and small, thin washer of polyethylene is placed between the barrel bottom and the tube on that screw. When it is put together that tube hole and washer gives a little expansion room at the tube hole. Now it might seem that you can get away with just enlarging the barrel screw hole and rethreading, opening the tube hole and putting a larger screw directly into the barrel and cut out all that time-consuming dovetail cutting and fitting. NO!
The larger screw sets up much more impact in the larger diameter new screw hole... every time the rifle is fired....from the tube bump at firing. And after two or three score rounds of smart ammo, the hard front screw rips the softer threads out of the barrel hole. But a hardened hunk of dovetail steel set in place, drilled and tapped, lasts forever. Believe it or not the tube end and the screw are harder than the barrel. The barrel is tough, not hard...if it were hard it would be brittle and couldn't take the pressure. Now see why gunsmiths charge so much? Their knowledge has to be very vast in many fields, good ones are hard to find.
Next is the barrel bands ...their only function should be cosmetic. They were there in 1885 so they should be there today. That's part of the reasoning for owning a levergun...it's like yesterday in looks, but you want it to shoot like today. I take the bands off.... put two thin blocks of wood in my vise and lock the band into it tight so that the part that grips the barrel is up and clear to work on. Take a dowel stick that fits into the chuck of your drill, with a hacksaw put a deep cut down one end through the middle. Tear a piece of fine grit paper in a strip and slip it into the cut in the dowel so that when it is locked in the chuck and turns, the rough side is exposed. Put that dowel and grit paper inside the band ring and turn the drill on....that will take metal out of the inside of the ring. It's a cut and try game. The idea is to relieve the barrel loop enough so that when the band is replaced and tightened down on the tube it doesn't touch the barrel...just looks like it does. Don't worry, the screw at the tube in the front will keep the tube in place.
Next is a lot of work, about an hour, but worth it. Take the forearm off, and with a hunk of broom handle with sandpaper, relieve it so it won't touch the barrel when put back on the rifle. How does the forearm stay in place you wonder? Easy, but you do this next step carefully.
Leaving the loading tube out of the gun, hold the forearm in place against the barrel....then from the forearm front, place a mark about two inches back on the forearm and the barrel. I use a felt tip pen. Then lay the forearm aside for a moment. Putting a heavy cloth in the vise, lock the rifle upside down in the vise by the action. (don't squeeze like you are tying up the Battleship New Jersey, firm is fine)
At the felt tip mark on the barrel, go to the bottom side of the barrel and cut a groove across the bottom with the round file. Go only as deep as one-third of the file at it's deepest point. Be sure this is at the same point on the forearm....replace the rifle barrel in the vise with the forearm. At the corresponding mark on the forearm cut a groove in the bottom of the barrel-well, the same depth as the barrel. These two groove together will allow the piece of drill rod to fill them. (cutting the groove inside the forearm can be with your electric drill and small round nose router bit, sold at Ace Hardware type stores) When that drill rod is epoxied in place on the forearm... it will fit into the barrel groove and hold the forearm in place at recoil.
The take your hunk of drill rod and cut a piece that will fit the cross groove in the forearm...fit it to the rifle to be sure the two grooves and the drill rod piece line up... you will most likely have to take a little more wood or steel out to get the 1/4 inch drill rod to fit. Once you have a firm but not tight fit, then epoxy the drill rod into the forearm. When dry reassemble the rifle. You have relieved all the pressure points. Because the drill rod is at the chamber end, where it is thick and less movement occurs, it doesn't affect the accuracy but holds the forearm in place.
The last accuracy item is important....no accuracy is worth stuff if the trigger is rough and gritty on the let-off. It is worth the cost of a GOOD gunsmith to tune the trigger and set it at around 3 1/2 pounds. That makes the difference between a snap shot hitting a bouncing deer and not hitting .... it really does when you have practiced with the new trigger. Even a heavy trigger that breaks CLEAN is better than a gritty light let-off.
(from Paco Kelly's LEVERGUNS - An American Heritage, chapter 23)"
Your problem is an agrevating one. Do not give up. You can solve it.
Shawn
All that I can think of is that something must be loose. Similarly, something could be binding.
Paco wrote a little on shooting forces & binding forces in this article, which is actually from his book:
http://www.leverguns.com/articles/paco/chapter23.htm
"SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING BLUE, SOMETHING NEW...
They all can be made to shoot MOA...
CHAPTER TWENTY THREE
LEVERGUNS
ACCURACY SYSTEMS
Things needed:
a drill with at least a 1/4 inch bit
a piece of hardened 1/4" drill rod
fine grit sandpaper, gritcloth is better
a piece of largest diameter wooden dowel that will fit in your drill's chuck
hacksaw with fine blade
round file fine tooth 1/4 inch body
fast setup epoxy, for steel and wood
vise on a workbench
Gaining accuracy in a leveraction rifle is really not much different than doing it in a bolt action. The principles are the same. There is no mystery, it is just that most folks take if for granted that 3 to 5 inches at 100 yards is normal and you have to live with it. That is utter nonsense....first of all on today's market there is not one brand of leveraction, one style, or one make that won't generally shoot into less than 2 inches with the right ammo. Some few individual guns (lemons) may go into larger groups...but bolt actions have the same problems with the unusual stinker in a group.
In the 1930s leverguns were tested with10 shot groups with target scopes of the day, and even then groups hovered over the 1 1/2 to 2 inch group mark.. since then leverguns have been getting better and better. Today USRAC makes the barrel and the chamber and the rifling all at once....out of the box my 356XTR went into less than 1 inch at one hundred yards. And with a hard cast 220 grain bullet or a Speer 180 spirepoint and Reloader 7 powder my 200 yard groups were under 2 inches. I'm not even going to touch it for better accuracy except for trigger work, they all need trigger work, and floating the barrel.
Say What? Float a levergun barrel?
You bet! First lets go down the list of thing that affect the accuracy of the leverguns ......
Numero uno is the cleaning wear at the muzzle of these fine guns. When I clean a levergun I take a cut-off case like the shoulder and neck section of a .30-30 and put it in the muzzle of my .32 Specials like a funnel... that saves the crown from cleaning rod wear. A tight necked .30-30 case section will do the .30-30. I use a fired and slightly opened .32 Special case section for the .356's and .358's, a fired .358 section for the .375 .. you get the idea. If the wear is already there, then the gun has to be recrowned. That is a job for the gunsmith. Tell him to go back as far as necessary ... I like an 11 degree crown from the bore out, instead of the normal rounded shape. The 11 degree is a target crown cut.
I know a few fella's that really keep their guns in fine shape. Always cleaning and tightening screws and such ... nothing wrong with all that if you are careful about some unexpected problems. the cleaning wear we already spoke of .. but tightening barrel bands and the screw at the end of the loading tube can lead to inaccuracy. Have you ever heard of the problems bolt action rifles have if the a hunk of wood INSIDE the forearm presses against the barrel? It causes a pressure point, and as the barrel heats from firing and expands it moves more away from that touch point, giving lousy groups at the target. The same idea holds true for barrel bands and for that first front screw in the tube into the underside of the barrel behind the crown.
Let's take that screw first ... turn your rifle over and look at it. Just a hole through the tube and a screw into the barrel at the crown. Simple. If the tube is too tight a fit for the barrel it becomes a pain in the rear end of accuracy. There has to be room for expansion of the barrel, and at the muzzle the most movement occurs. If it's tight the tube pulls down on the barrel as it heats up and stringing of the shots is the usual result.
It's easy to fix. A gunsmith can cut a dovetail cut into the bottom of the barrel right where the screw hole is...he then puts a piece of hardened dovetailed steel into that cut. The steel has been drilled and tapped for a larger hole and screw....the hole in the tube is cut a little larger than the new screw, and small, thin washer of polyethylene is placed between the barrel bottom and the tube on that screw. When it is put together that tube hole and washer gives a little expansion room at the tube hole. Now it might seem that you can get away with just enlarging the barrel screw hole and rethreading, opening the tube hole and putting a larger screw directly into the barrel and cut out all that time-consuming dovetail cutting and fitting. NO!
The larger screw sets up much more impact in the larger diameter new screw hole... every time the rifle is fired....from the tube bump at firing. And after two or three score rounds of smart ammo, the hard front screw rips the softer threads out of the barrel hole. But a hardened hunk of dovetail steel set in place, drilled and tapped, lasts forever. Believe it or not the tube end and the screw are harder than the barrel. The barrel is tough, not hard...if it were hard it would be brittle and couldn't take the pressure. Now see why gunsmiths charge so much? Their knowledge has to be very vast in many fields, good ones are hard to find.
Next is the barrel bands ...their only function should be cosmetic. They were there in 1885 so they should be there today. That's part of the reasoning for owning a levergun...it's like yesterday in looks, but you want it to shoot like today. I take the bands off.... put two thin blocks of wood in my vise and lock the band into it tight so that the part that grips the barrel is up and clear to work on. Take a dowel stick that fits into the chuck of your drill, with a hacksaw put a deep cut down one end through the middle. Tear a piece of fine grit paper in a strip and slip it into the cut in the dowel so that when it is locked in the chuck and turns, the rough side is exposed. Put that dowel and grit paper inside the band ring and turn the drill on....that will take metal out of the inside of the ring. It's a cut and try game. The idea is to relieve the barrel loop enough so that when the band is replaced and tightened down on the tube it doesn't touch the barrel...just looks like it does. Don't worry, the screw at the tube in the front will keep the tube in place.
Next is a lot of work, about an hour, but worth it. Take the forearm off, and with a hunk of broom handle with sandpaper, relieve it so it won't touch the barrel when put back on the rifle. How does the forearm stay in place you wonder? Easy, but you do this next step carefully.
Leaving the loading tube out of the gun, hold the forearm in place against the barrel....then from the forearm front, place a mark about two inches back on the forearm and the barrel. I use a felt tip pen. Then lay the forearm aside for a moment. Putting a heavy cloth in the vise, lock the rifle upside down in the vise by the action. (don't squeeze like you are tying up the Battleship New Jersey, firm is fine)
At the felt tip mark on the barrel, go to the bottom side of the barrel and cut a groove across the bottom with the round file. Go only as deep as one-third of the file at it's deepest point. Be sure this is at the same point on the forearm....replace the rifle barrel in the vise with the forearm. At the corresponding mark on the forearm cut a groove in the bottom of the barrel-well, the same depth as the barrel. These two groove together will allow the piece of drill rod to fill them. (cutting the groove inside the forearm can be with your electric drill and small round nose router bit, sold at Ace Hardware type stores) When that drill rod is epoxied in place on the forearm... it will fit into the barrel groove and hold the forearm in place at recoil.
The take your hunk of drill rod and cut a piece that will fit the cross groove in the forearm...fit it to the rifle to be sure the two grooves and the drill rod piece line up... you will most likely have to take a little more wood or steel out to get the 1/4 inch drill rod to fit. Once you have a firm but not tight fit, then epoxy the drill rod into the forearm. When dry reassemble the rifle. You have relieved all the pressure points. Because the drill rod is at the chamber end, where it is thick and less movement occurs, it doesn't affect the accuracy but holds the forearm in place.
The last accuracy item is important....no accuracy is worth stuff if the trigger is rough and gritty on the let-off. It is worth the cost of a GOOD gunsmith to tune the trigger and set it at around 3 1/2 pounds. That makes the difference between a snap shot hitting a bouncing deer and not hitting .... it really does when you have practiced with the new trigger. Even a heavy trigger that breaks CLEAN is better than a gritty light let-off.
(from Paco Kelly's LEVERGUNS - An American Heritage, chapter 23)"
Your problem is an agrevating one. Do not give up. You can solve it.
Shawn
"That's right, Billy, I'm good with it. I hit what I shoot at, and I'm fast!"-Lucas McCain, c1882.
Re: I have had enough!
Nath, try this trick remove everything except the bbl and front sight;the forearm ,mag tube and barrel bands and shoot the rifle over a benchrest. see if you can hold a 3 shot group if you can then its the stuff on the front end thats the problem and tackle each one. danny
-
Ben_Rumson
- Advanced Levergunner
- Posts: 2569
- Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2007 12:51 pm
Re: I have had enough!
Nath.. I don't remember if your rifle is scoped or not.. But if it is scoped and everything is tight like it should be either put that scope on another rifle and see if the grouping on that rifle exhibits the same type of patterning or put a different scope on your 94.. I had a fairly new Weaver scope go bad and it showed the same symptoms as yours... two or three close together.. then some more a few inches over in another place.. adjusted for it.. then the next time out it would be shooting in another place.. replaced that scope with another scope and problem solved.. Sent the Weaver back & got it fixed... Good luck!
"IT IS MY OPINION, AND I AM CORRECT SO DON'T ARGUE, THE 99 SAVAGE IS THE FINEST RIFLE EVER MADE IN AMERICA."
WIL TERRY
WIL TERRY
-
Griff
- Posting leader...
- Posts: 20864
- Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2007 4:56 pm
- Location: OH MY GAWD they installed a STOP light!!!
Re: I have had enough!
Nath,
It may just be worth the time to do what BigSky56 and Ben suggest for starters. If either of those point to the problem then fix that. The Paco article Hagler references is the exact same thing I had to do to a couple of my 94s back in the '70s & '80s before A.Gore invented the internet. I had to figure stuff out on my own without the aid of either Paco's guidance or this site (or its predecessors). Paco's article lays it out in a great step-by-step list of do's and don'ts. Wish my fumblin' around was as organized!
It may just be worth the time to do what BigSky56 and Ben suggest for starters. If either of those point to the problem then fix that. The Paco article Hagler references is the exact same thing I had to do to a couple of my 94s back in the '70s & '80s before A.Gore invented the internet. I had to figure stuff out on my own without the aid of either Paco's guidance or this site (or its predecessors). Paco's article lays it out in a great step-by-step list of do's and don'ts. Wish my fumblin' around was as organized!
Griff,
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
Re: I have had enough!
Don't forget to check the crown at the muzzle.
Re: I have had enough!
As you guys are speaking I'm doing the mods!
If it doesn't do it I will change the scope but I am not to hopefull of a scope problem as one of the recent tests I did was to remove the scope and put the peep back on in which the trapper shot exactly the same.
Dark nights now mean I don't know when I get to test again.
The scope is a Niko 2-7 FWIW.
Nath.
If it doesn't do it I will change the scope but I am not to hopefull of a scope problem as one of the recent tests I did was to remove the scope and put the peep back on in which the trapper shot exactly the same.
Dark nights now mean I don't know when I get to test again.
The scope is a Niko 2-7 FWIW.
Nath.
Psalm ch8.
Because I wish I could!
Because I wish I could!
-
Old Savage
- Posting leader...
- Posts: 16736
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 3:43 pm
- Location: Southern California
Re: I have had enough!
Mine in 45 Colt shot the best with 225 gr Silvertips.
In the High Desert of Southern Calif. ..."on the cutting edge of going back in time"...
-
JerryB
- Advanced Levergunner
- Posts: 5493
- Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:23 pm
- Location: Batesville,Arkansas
Re: I have had enough!
Nath, I have not had this problem with any of my 94's but about the same thing with an old 92 32-20. Kirk helped me out with that one. I have read of several folks doing what Danny said, strip the front end down to the mag tube and start back from there. Good luck, it's hard to not get discouraged, I know.
JerryB II Corinthians 3:17, Now the Lord is that Spirit: and where the Spirit of the Lord is, there is liberty.
JOSHUA 24:15
JOSHUA 24:15
Re: I have had enough!
Right, I had little sleep as I've been up late doing the mods.
The barrel bands have alot of day light around them now!
The mag tube can move freely left and right which allows the band to touch any side of the barrel it likes which I don't like!
The rear band is off the barrel and the splinter is sanded out but held in with a cross pin 2" forward of the reciever.
If this carbine don't put it's rounds in a 2" group with all this work, first chance I get it's going!
I've shot at paper that much with it I may as well got a target only gun!
And yes I'm grumpy, irrertable and tired
Nath.
The barrel bands have alot of day light around them now!
The mag tube can move freely left and right which allows the band to touch any side of the barrel it likes which I don't like!
The rear band is off the barrel and the splinter is sanded out but held in with a cross pin 2" forward of the reciever.
If this carbine don't put it's rounds in a 2" group with all this work, first chance I get it's going!
I've shot at paper that much with it I may as well got a target only gun!
And yes I'm grumpy, irrertable and tired
Nath.
Psalm ch8.
Because I wish I could!
Because I wish I could!
Re: I have had enough!
Sorry to hear about the trouble Nath! Levers can be fickle at times. Your last suggustions for BB94 really helped me bring back my accuracy.....right back to shooting small little groups. No more lever partially opening either! Hang with it brother. 
But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8
Re: I have had enough!
I shot some old 110grainers first to settle the gun. The first shot went low and then the next 6 went into a two inch group.
Next went three 150grainers on 34grain of h4895, all the primers were the same after shooting and they went into an inch.
Now here is the rub, the next three of the same load opened that group up to three inch!
The primers of these three were not looking the same as the first three, why? I have no idea.
I rezeroed again and loaded some more of the 110grainers and tested the barrel for heat walking the shots. Shooting quick but carefully I got a two inch group so no worry there, also the 110 grainers are at the same zero as the tested 150 load today and that is a new development. They were at different zero points before the Paco mods.
It's not the scope, the 110grainers group.
I have to try other loads again now but I am also going to weigh the cases between the odd looking primers. (In a minute).
Also I have noticed how little the firing pin protrudes! I had some misfires a couple of weeks ago and I am now wondering if the shoulder of the pin needs a little relief, I guess a few thou won't hurt.
I don't mind saying it , I am really fed up with it !
Nath.
Next went three 150grainers on 34grain of h4895, all the primers were the same after shooting and they went into an inch.
Now here is the rub, the next three of the same load opened that group up to three inch!
The primers of these three were not looking the same as the first three, why? I have no idea.
I rezeroed again and loaded some more of the 110grainers and tested the barrel for heat walking the shots. Shooting quick but carefully I got a two inch group so no worry there, also the 110 grainers are at the same zero as the tested 150 load today and that is a new development. They were at different zero points before the Paco mods.
It's not the scope, the 110grainers group.
I have to try other loads again now but I am also going to weigh the cases between the odd looking primers. (In a minute).
Also I have noticed how little the firing pin protrudes! I had some misfires a couple of weeks ago and I am now wondering if the shoulder of the pin needs a little relief, I guess a few thou won't hurt.
I don't mind saying it , I am really fed up with it !
Nath.
Psalm ch8.
Because I wish I could!
Because I wish I could!
-
Ben_Rumson
- Advanced Levergunner
- Posts: 2569
- Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2007 12:51 pm
Re: I have had enough!
Now in my case what you are going through would be fun... Working out the kinks in the rifle and ammo..getting it to shoot good.. very satisfying..
"IT IS MY OPINION, AND I AM CORRECT SO DON'T ARGUE, THE 99 SAVAGE IS THE FINEST RIFLE EVER MADE IN AMERICA."
WIL TERRY
WIL TERRY
-
O.S.O.K.
- Advanced Levergunner
- Posts: 5533
- Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 4:15 pm
- Location: Deep in the Piney Woods of Mississippi
Re: I have had enough!
Stick with it! You can doooo eeet!
NRA Endowment Life
Phi Kappa Sigma, Alpha Phi 83 "Skulls"
OCS, 120th MP Battalion, MSSG
MOLON LABE!
Phi Kappa Sigma, Alpha Phi 83 "Skulls"
OCS, 120th MP Battalion, MSSG
MOLON LABE!
-
Pepe Ray
- Levergunner 2.0
- Posts: 160
- Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2007 11:22 am
- Location: Piscataquis River, so. bank
Re: I have had enough!
Not knowing the history of it, has this Win. been "slicked up"? If so, you may have a weakened hammer spring giving inconsistent ignition.
Good luck,
Pepe Ray
Good luck,
Pepe Ray
Jesus is the way.
