Win 1894

[K9kodi]

Hey alll

I collect level rifles. Mostly in the flavor or jm stamped ore Safetey excluded marlins. Browning, or Winchester.


I just acquired a win 1894 in 30-30. It appears to have beeen made in 1983.

It will not strike firing pins reliably. I wanted to use it this rifle season but it is Not reliable it’s ability to set off primer. I have swapped hamme springs.

[AJMD429]

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Welcome to the Levergun Enabler Club...

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[Pat C]

Is the firing pin or striker damaged .Check the protrusion of the tip. Might want to detail clean the passage in locking bolt the striker rides in.

[K9kodi]

I’m terribly sorry. I shouldn’t have posted that incoherent post last night. I was half asleep.

Either way, my 1894 would not set off cartridges.
I replaced the coil spring and then took apart a 30-30 cartridge, removing the powder and bullet and tried one empty shell housing a primer. The firing pin struck and it went off.
I went to the range the next day, with ammunition from the same box or reloads it would not set off a cartridge.
Primers show light strikes. Indented for sure, but not enough.

Woukd my next course of action be a. New firing pin?
The rifle is very to extremely clean, well taken care of no gunk or excess grease.

[Modoc]

Is the firing pin or striker damaged .Check the protrusion of the tip. Might want to detail clean the passage in locking bolt the striker rides in.

I’d also consider a Bolt tear down to clean the firing pin channel and inspect the Pin and any springs. Who knows what crud could be built up in there.

[LeverGunner]

First thing I'd do is make sure the firing pin channel is clean, and the firing pin extension in the locking bolt is free moving.

Is your rifle an rebounding hammer model? I ain't sure when they changed to a rebounding hammer, but it was around that time. If it is, I would try modifying the strut. The original strut had 4 legs, 2 on top and 2 on bottom. They switched to a 3 legged strut, 2 on top and 1 on the bottom due to light strikes.

I had a 90's era rebounding hammer 94 that misfired, and I asked the gunsmith about it. He suggested replacing the firing pin. He didn't explain exactly why, but said that dry firing would cause it. He sold me a firing pin and it fixed the problem immediately.

I have seen a rifle from the 70's era have metal moved on the bolt face from the firing pin. The pin hitting internally would move metal up around the firing pin hole. That rifle didn't misfire, bu this changed the headspace.

[K9kodi]

I believe it was made in 1983. I’ll check it all out when I get home. Thanks a ton

[AJMD429]

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Yeah - a perfectly clean gun can still have gunk in the firing pin channel. I've had that happen many times.

My Ruger 96/22 levergun has an integrally suppressed barrel, and the combination of that plus inherently 'dirty' 22 LR ammo, means the firing pin channel needs cleaned frequently. Since the gun is much more difficult to take apart versus the 10/22, I plan to try drilling a small hole in the exposed side of the bolt so that I can use a spray can nozzle to blast out the firing pin channel without disassembly.

I probably wouldn't do that to a Win 94 though...!!!

[Griff]

Although I haven't seen one in 10-15 years, you can replace your rebounding hammer strut with a late model 94 (above serial # 4,580,000), top eject strut and it will eliminate the rebounding feature. I don't have any Angle Eject Winchester 94s, but I have theorized that simply putting a washer at the hammer end of the main spring may increase spring pressure enough to prevent light strikes... it is also like to increase the rebounding effect with that hammer strut. Some folks (Numrich) call it a hammer spring guide rod, but Winchester calls it a hammer strut.

Note, according the Winchester's site, serial number 4,580,000 was produced sometime in 1978 and the same strut was in use until the end of the top eject mdl 94s in 1982. However, my Legendary Lawman was introduced in 1977 and has the strut & coil mainspring. My BiCentennial mdl 94 commemorative (introduced in 1976), has the double flat mainspring of the early post 64s. Given how Winchesters were assembled, there are probably some overlap of parts. With later guns getting earlier parts, and earlier guns getting later parts. As they were not assembled in strict numerical sequence.

While the AE versions have the rebounding hammer, which has two grooves in the back of the hammer shank, and the 4,580,000 & above top ejects only has one groove, the earlier strut will work with the AE hammer. I have 4 assembled actions from parts that contain a mix of these parts, although all in top eject receivers. It's not required to replace the whole lower tang to replace the strut. In fact, some AE mdl 94s don't have the "ears" on the lower tang or corresponding cuts in the receiver to accommodate top eject lower tangs. I have found that using the later AE lower tang that has a bushed hammer screw makes assembly easier, as you can assemble the lower tang, mainspring, hammer & trigger/sear as a unit and install it in the rifle. Whereas, the top eject lower tang and trigger/hammer group has to be assembled while in the receiver as individual parts. A case of the "I need another hand" to get them lined up properly proposition. It can be done, but eased greatly if you can insert a place holding pin from the right side as you insert the hammer screw from the left, pushing out said pin, and near impossible if you have any pressure on the mainspring.

But, hey... do what the guys above say by making sure the firing pin channel is clear and clean.

But, also check that your previously unfired rounds, although dented by the firing pin, won't fire with a second attempt. If they do fire with a second hammer strike, that might indicate that the primers aren't fully seated in the pocket.

[K9kodi]

How can I tell if it’s rebounding or not. I believe it was 1983 build, def not angle ejection. Where’s the research to do on the hammer

[OldWin]

I don't believe an 83 vintage 94 has a rebounding hammer, but I could be wrong.
Either way, its easy to tell. If you have a half cock safety notch, you don't have a rebounding hammer.
I have a 94 Trapper from 1990 that had it. I didn't like it and swapped in a complete lower tang assembly from a late 60s 94. Now I have the traditional half cock.

I don't know what the spec is, but check your firing pin protrusion at the bolt face, also.

[Griff]

How can I tell if it’s rebounding or not. I believe it was 1983 build, def not angle ejection. Where’s the research to do on the hammer/

If it's a top eject, you DON'T have a rebounding hammer, unless someone swapped that in... If you swapped the main spring, you might remember what the hammer strut looked like... maybe #45 here:

Post64TEcoilmainspring.jpg