Does anyone here know how to work on BLRs - Trigger job

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BeeKay
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Does anyone here know how to work on BLRs - Trigger job

Post by BeeKay »

This isn't a post by someone who took his BLR apart and can't get it back together.
I'm inquiring in advance
I'd show pics, but my camera isn't that good and the parts are too tiny.
I've studied the trigger mechanism and I'm seeing that once the stock is removed, you can knock a pin out and remove a rotating spring loaded mechanism.
I'm not sure what to call that part. But anyone who has worked on a BLR knows what part I'm referring to, and I'll let you tell me what to call it.

Here's my main question: When I remove that part and after I've done my work on it, what is the correct way to put it back together?

That's the biggest issue I see here.
I've done trigger jobs on my TC Contender pistol, and this looks close to the same concept, so I'm sure I can improve it.

Thank you very much for any helpful info
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Tycer
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Re: Does anyone here know how to work on BLRs - Trigger job

Post by Tycer »

Don’t try it yourself.
Last edited by Tycer on Sun Feb 09, 2020 3:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Tycer
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Re: Does anyone here know how to work on BLRs - Trigger job

Post by Tycer »

Kind regards,
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Old No7
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Re: Does anyone here know how to work on BLRs - Trigger job

Post by Old No7 »

Tycer wrote:
Sun Feb 09, 2020 1:26 pm
Don’t try it yourself.
I did my BLR years ago, when I jeweled ("engine turning") the bolt, and while it was apart I improved the creep it had in the trigger (as it turns out there was a burr in there). I did not remove any metal, only polished what was there. I found some disassembly instruction online and also had guidance from take-down info published in a gunsmithing book. I'd recommend you have at least two sources of "how to" info on the BLR take-down as some sources are better than others on certain parts.

The main trick -- if I recall correctly -- was (a) marking and photographing where the back of the bolt was when fully closed "before", and also (b) marking the gear that engaged the teeth on the bottom of the bolt so that you get the tooth-to-tooth lockup perfect ("exact tooth" on each part) when you reassemble it. I took pix with a camera and would put slight scratch marks (only visible to me, or if you looked really hard) to help ensure I lined up the geared teeth correctly afterwards. I may also have "counted" which tooth it was on the bolt, that aligned with the witness mark I made.

All in all it was a pretty straight forward project, but I never would have attempted it without help from the books.

Good luck if you do this.

Old No7
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BeeKay
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Re: Does anyone here know how to work on BLRs - Trigger job

Post by BeeKay »

It looks like the trigger assembly can be worked on without touching the bolt or lever assembly.

Yes - I am going to do it myself

I have a couple BLRs and if I take one apart and have trouble getting it back together, I can refer to the other one.
Learning to do a trigger job for myself will save me at least $400 on two rifles if someone adds in shipping... Based on the prices I'm seeing
BenT
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Re: Does anyone here know how to work on BLRs - Trigger job

Post by BenT »

You don't need to take the bolt out to work on the trigger. I just replaced the trigger return spring with a lighter one and dropped the trigger pull by 2 .5 pounds. They use a very heavy spring to push the trigger forward for reset. I beleive I had to remove the rear pin in the receiver. Which has to be tapped out in the correct direction.
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Re: Does anyone here know how to work on BLRs - Trigger job

Post by M. M. Wright »

Hobie's web site has instructions (maybe a link) for assembly/disassembly of the BLR. I've had a few apart and back together successfully. We've had problems with fired cases sticking in the chamber with factory ammo. Took them apart to polish the chambers. A son has a 243 that we will AI so it will come apart for that. I'm told you can't take the barrel out. I think the family total of BLR ownership is about 15 so one of us had better be able to work on them 'cause I've heard Browning refuses to warranty them.
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BeeKay
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Re: Does anyone here know how to work on BLRs - Trigger job

Post by BeeKay »

M. M. Wright wrote:
Tue Feb 11, 2020 4:48 pm
Hobie's web site has instructions (maybe a link) for assembly/disassembly of the BLR. I've had a few apart and back together successfully. We've had problems with fired cases sticking in the chamber with factory ammo. Took them apart to polish the chambers. A son has a 243 that we will AI so it will come apart for that. I'm told you can't take the barrel out. I think the family total of BLR ownership is about 15 so one of us had better be able to work on them 'cause I've heard Browning refuses to warranty them.
Thank you for that link - This is the most helpful info so far - Good pics too, including part ID and repair manual.
Now I know what the part is called, at least
Last edited by BeeKay on Wed Feb 12, 2020 4:07 pm, edited 2 times in total.
BeeKay
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Re: Does anyone here know how to work on BLRs - Trigger job

Post by BeeKay »

BenT wrote:
Mon Feb 10, 2020 8:49 pm
You don't need to take the bolt out to work on the trigger. I just replaced the trigger return spring with a lighter one and dropped the trigger pull by 2 .5 pounds. They use a very heavy spring to push the trigger forward for reset. I beleive I had to remove the rear pin in the receiver. Which has to be tapped out in the correct direction.
Good to know - This is the direction I'm trying to move in.
Thanks
BeeKay
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Re: Does anyone here know how to work on BLRs - Trigger job

Post by BeeKay »

M. M. Wright wrote:
Tue Feb 11, 2020 4:48 pm
Hobie's web site has instructions (maybe a link) for assembly/disassembly of the BLR. I've had a few apart and back together successfully. We've had problems with fired cases sticking in the chamber with factory ammo. Took them apart to polish the chambers. A son has a 243 that we will AI so it will come apart for that. I'm told you can't take the barrel out. I think the family total of BLR ownership is about 15 so one of us had better be able to work on them 'cause I've heard Browning refuses to warranty them.
I have another question if you should happen to get here to read this.
So, you're reaming a chamber to 243 AI... And you are going to attempt that without removing the barrel?
How did you go about polishing the chamber on the BLR that you did that work on?
Also Have you ever spoken to anyone who has successfully re-blued a barrel on a BLR without removing it?
I have a few BLRs now and It would be to my advantage to learn as much as possible and if there's a method for barrel removal, I'm interested in finding out more.
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Re: Does anyone here know how to work on BLRs - Trigger job

Post by M. M. Wright »

BeeKay,
I don't recall all the specifics but I think most people don't realize there are at least 3 iterations of BLR and the attachments of their barrels. Early steel Belgian and Japanese rifles do have threads but have really good Loctite so must be heated to 350 or so to break them loose. Light weight guns, I don't know. Action must be open or you'll lose an extractor. Many of these early rifles have chambers that were badly made and will seize the fired cartridge requiring a brass rod down the barrel and judicious hammering to remove the spent case. I've had pretty good luck polishing those chambers by turning a case with a rod down the barrel and compound on the case. I try hard to not disturb those gears.
M. M. Wright, Sheriff, Green county Arkansas (1860)
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BeeKay
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Re: Does anyone here know how to work on BLRs - Trigger job

Post by BeeKay »

M. M. Wright wrote:
Thu Feb 13, 2020 11:06 am
BeeKay,
I don't recall all the specifics but I think most people don't realize there are at least 3 iterations of BLR and the attachments of their barrels. Early steel Belgian and Japanese rifles do have threads but have really good Loctite so must be heated to 350 or so to break them loose. Light weight guns, I don't know. Action must be open or you'll lose an extractor. Many of these early rifles have chambers that were badly made and will seize the fired cartridge requiring a brass rod down the barrel and judicious hammering to remove the spent case. I've had pretty good luck polishing those chambers by turning a case with a rod down the barrel and compound on the case. I try hard to not disturb those gears.
Thanks - That's good to know, should future problems occur
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