The Phoenix Marlin
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Please post political post in the new Politics forum.
The Phoenix Marlin
I've been working on recovering a nonfunctional 1895 Marlin into a fully functional, good as new, moose rifle. Slowly progress is being made.
It arrived in terrible condition - the pictures look better than it really was
There were extra piercings for example
http://www.public.iastate.edu/~jessie/P ... dition.jpg
And none of the wood fit
http://www.public.iastate.edu/~jessie/P ... dition.jpg
And the barrel wasn't right, the main spring was junk, etc etc.
Now it fires a new barrel and quite well it seems. The woodwork is coming up to snuff slowly. A lot remains to be done but by this time next year, it will be fully risen from the ashes and ready for Alaska.
You know it is irritating that this site will only handle sub 1000 pixel photos. I spent half an hour sizing them down to 1000 pixels wide and they still won't post. Not worth the effort to fix again.
It arrived in terrible condition - the pictures look better than it really was
There were extra piercings for example
http://www.public.iastate.edu/~jessie/P ... dition.jpg
And none of the wood fit
http://www.public.iastate.edu/~jessie/P ... dition.jpg
And the barrel wasn't right, the main spring was junk, etc etc.
Now it fires a new barrel and quite well it seems. The woodwork is coming up to snuff slowly. A lot remains to be done but by this time next year, it will be fully risen from the ashes and ready for Alaska.
You know it is irritating that this site will only handle sub 1000 pixel photos. I spent half an hour sizing them down to 1000 pixels wide and they still won't post. Not worth the effort to fix again.
- GonnePhishin
- Senior Levergunner
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Re: The Phoenix Marlin
Looks like its really coming along. How old is the 1895, and why in heck would someone add that hole on top of it as shown in yer' picture?
Nice looking admirer as well:)
Nice looking admirer as well:)
"The beauty of the second amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it." - Thomas Jefferson
"I know not what course other men may take, but as for me, Give me Liberty or Give me Death!" - Patrick Henry
"I know not what course other men may take, but as for me, Give me Liberty or Give me Death!" - Patrick Henry
Re: The Phoenix Marlin
This one was made in 1899 by my estimation. But there are no other records of what it was configured for originally. It was wearing a .33 WCF barrel from a 336 actioned "95) along with a chopped down and nonfunctional modern "95" mag tube. I wish I new what it was in the beginning but there is no info.
The holes are hard to understand. There was one that passed through from left to right and through the bottom of the barrel stub (not the barrel that was on it though). I can only guess that it, plus the one down from the top was someone's idea of a take-down barrel.
Rusty inspects all of my work. I've told him he needs to come elk hunting with me, but he always seems to be too busy.
The holes are hard to understand. There was one that passed through from left to right and through the bottom of the barrel stub (not the barrel that was on it though). I can only guess that it, plus the one down from the top was someone's idea of a take-down barrel.
Rusty inspects all of my work. I've told him he needs to come elk hunting with me, but he always seems to be too busy.
Re: The Phoenix Marlin
So far, so good.............
.
Re: The Phoenix Marlin
hmm, Well, it told me that my picts were too big. Apparently, not for you though.
Thanks.
My little basket case is progressing well, but I have to parse out how to get a tang sight to reach 200 yds on it. I think I'll take it to the range again soon, and see where we are with the sights that I have for it. I need to design the bullet for it too but for now, I'll just use greasers.
Thanks.
My little basket case is progressing well, but I have to parse out how to get a tang sight to reach 200 yds on it. I think I'll take it to the range again soon, and see where we are with the sights that I have for it. I need to design the bullet for it too but for now, I'll just use greasers.
- plowboy 45
- Senior Levergunner
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Re: The Phoenix Marlin
Looks good Brent
-
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Re: The Phoenix Marlin
LOOKS REAL GOOD ! Brought back from the grave.,,,,,,, DT
- Griff
- Posting leader...
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Re: The Phoenix Marlin
Man, I'm green! That looks nice... and much better done than my project 1894!
Griff,
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
Re: The Phoenix Marlin
I'm finally getting back to my neglected 1895. It is a .45-70 this time. I don't know what it was in its first life but it came to me as a badly abused,nonfunctional .33 WCF, which was obviously not a barrel original to this gun. Though the barrel was in excellent condition, it just didn't belong, nor did I want the caliber. So, it's been rebarreled, welded, and now I'm finishing the restocking. Metal polishing and finishing remains, but progress is again being made.
I thought you guys might like to see the stain/oil finish I opted for. This wood is somewhat purple in the raw but I think it will lack the color that I really want so I decided to add some cherry stain (alcohol based) to the Laurel Mt. Forge Permalyn oil finish that I happen to prefer to jobs like this. It looks scary bright blood red. But it will calm down before I'm done.
Here are a couple of before/during picts of the process. I'll add more photos after I'm finishe with the basic wood finish. I may eventually checker and carve the stock but I'm not sure yet. I've never checkered and my carving experience is limited.
Anyway, just an update on this gun that is slowly rising from the ashes of neglect and outright abuse.
I thought you guys might like to see the stain/oil finish I opted for. This wood is somewhat purple in the raw but I think it will lack the color that I really want so I decided to add some cherry stain (alcohol based) to the Laurel Mt. Forge Permalyn oil finish that I happen to prefer to jobs like this. It looks scary bright blood red. But it will calm down before I'm done.
Here are a couple of before/during picts of the process. I'll add more photos after I'm finishe with the basic wood finish. I may eventually checker and carve the stock but I'm not sure yet. I've never checkered and my carving experience is limited.
Anyway, just an update on this gun that is slowly rising from the ashes of neglect and outright abuse.
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Re: The Phoenix Marlin
Glad it's coming along for you, post some pictures now and then of the progress.
JerryB II Corinthians 3:17, Now the Lord is that Spirit: and where the Spirit of the Lord is, there is liberty.
JOSHUA 24:15
JOSHUA 24:15
- plowboy 45
- Senior Levergunner
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Re: The Phoenix Marlin
Coming along very well, one of these days I'm gonna get a buttplate for mine and be done except. for hunting with it
Re: The Phoenix Marlin
Back when the square bolt 1895's turned my crank the guy I got the 33 WCF from also had a Marlin 1895 of 1896 vintage that had been bored out from a 38-56 to 50-110 .
I kinda liked that gun and sorta wanted it . I was well aware Marlin never made one for the cartridge etc etc . But I would have bought it if the price hadn't been quite so steep !
50 cals are cool be it a Winchester lever , Sharps or a rebored Marlin 1895 !
I kinda liked that gun and sorta wanted it . I was well aware Marlin never made one for the cartridge etc etc . But I would have bought it if the price hadn't been quite so steep !
50 cals are cool be it a Winchester lever , Sharps or a rebored Marlin 1895 !
Parkers , Mannlicher Schoenauer’s , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines !
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- Levergunner 2.0
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Re: The Phoenix Marlin
Fine job returning an old gal to service. Looks like it's gonna turn out nicely and I hope you can take a moose with her.
By the way, nice halflinger too. There was an old feller I used to know who swore by them for mule mommas.
By the way, nice halflinger too. There was an old feller I used to know who swore by them for mule mommas.
- Griff
- Posting leader...
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Re: The Phoenix Marlin
Absolutely! Mine are so slow as to be termed "Glacial resurrections"!!!JerryB wrote:Glad it's coming along for you, post some pictures now and then of the progress.
Griff,
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
Re: The Phoenix Marlin
Looking good! I have never seen a real 1895 in my area. They must not have sold well out here.
My "HB" (Hunting Buddy) She's a good cook too!
- Dan 444
- Levergunner 2.0
- Posts: 262
- Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 12:03 pm
- Location: Northern Adirondack Mountains
Re: The Phoenix Marlin
Looking forward to the progress. This is going to be nice, very nice!
Thx,
Dan
Thx,
Dan
Re: The Phoenix Marlin
The Marlin 1895 in 33 WCF of about 1916 vintage I used to own and the one that had been rebored to 50-110 both came from a dealer in Cali .Marc wrote:Looking good! I have never seen a real 1895 in my area. They must not have sold well out here.
His name evades me at the moment but I got that 33 from him sure enough . But then thats not to say he didn't get it from out of state .
The four I had ,
33 WCF came from Cali
38-56 came from Leroy Merz in MN
40-65 came from Fairbanks AK
40-82 came from the Denver CO area
Parkers , Mannlicher Schoenauer’s , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines !
Re: The Phoenix Marlin
I started working on the metal today. I don't know if many here do their own metal finishing but it really is drop dead easy (skill wise) to do your own metal polishing and rust bluing. I sort of dread doing it until I get started, and then it's a bunch of fun and I enjoy the sweat equity in each of my rifles. When they are done, I am more than happy to show off my results and brad a bit. I think they can be as good any any top-flight gunsmith/builder's work. Anyway, I thought I would show some of the process and today was the "draw" filing day just in case some of you might be contemplating some DIY sweat equity investment.
Barrels are not easy to photograph, but this is the barrel prior to much work being done on it. You can see the serrations from the milling of the octagon flats in this picture. Removing them is the first objective of draw filing.
When draw filing it it imperative to keep the file perfectly flat on the barrel's flat. This is impossible to do actually, but I can come close by holding the file with two hands very close to the barrel. I let my thumbs from each hand ride on the flats on either side of the flat I am filing. I can't show my hands in this picture and still take the picture, so you have to imagine it I guess. Actually, I prefer to push my file instead of "drawing" (pulling) it towards me. Either way, works. Here you can see that the flat appears to be concave in cross section, since the center of the flat is untouched by the file while the left and right edges are being worked by the file. This is actually a sign that I am not holding the file perfectly flat on the barrel. It is impossible not to rock from side to side very slightly. But minimize this all you can. And whatever you do, do not let the file slip off the edges of the flat or you will cut deep serrations in the edges of the barrel. They are all but impossible to file out w/o swamping the barrel, and you not want that.
As an alternative to holding the file crosswise and pulling or pushing it along the flat, I sometimes put the file lengthwise on the flat and push it along. I don't do this much, but it works for going over dovetails and some other issues of irregularity initially. It also is much easier to hold it flatter to the barrel. If you do this, be sure that the tail of the file is not scratching a groove as you go. This particular Nicholson file happens to have a stamp on the handle on one side that really protrudes and scratches up the surface. Also, filing this way makes it easy to clog the file and that leads to galling of the surface you are trying to smooth. So only one or two strokes, then clean and repeat.
Keeping the file clean is really REALLY REALLY important. Just one speck of steel filings in the teeth will cause a nasty groove in your surface that will be very very hard to get out on the next step (wet/dry paper or fine emory cloth). The tricks are hard to find, but for me, I make a few strokes, clean with my thumb. I also use a very new file (a small 6" Nicholson in this case), and I make a point to clear my filings from the surface and never file over loose filings on the barrel. Here you can see a single speck of steel clogging that will gouge my barrel if I continue w/o clearing it. I use a file carding brush on the stubborn clogs.
Keeping files clean and sharp can be a lot easier if they are stored carefully. This is where my files hang out when not in use.
If done right, the barrel should be very uniformly smooth and white. I use a light off to the side to try to shadow line grooves and gouges and I touch those up before moving on to the next flat. BTW, I always start out on the bottom flats and then work up the sides, leaving the top flats to last, when I have myself well practiced and warmed up. I want my best work on those top flats that I will see the most often. Also, when I file a barrel, I can't stroke the entire length from on end to the other like I can when using the wet/dry paper later in the process. If I do, I either tilt the file too much or I clog the teeth and gouge the barrel. So, I so strokes of 5-7 inches at a time. And I go up and down the barrel several times for each flat, being careful to overlap sections well, and not cause low spots in a flat due to filing too much at one location. Later, I'll be running paper, backed by hard blocks of wood, the entire length of the barrel to make sure the surface is flat from front to back as well as left to right. Flatness is everything here and anything less than the best job possible is instantly visible in the final product (even though you may not notice it right now prior to the blueing).
I'll post some more pics at the process goes along. It will become a messy job soon, making pictures a bit harder, but I'll manage or hire my wife to take some
Oh yeah, one more thing - you really gotta try to be smarter than me when you pull the barrel off.... This is just one example of why I am not a gunsmith.
Barrels are not easy to photograph, but this is the barrel prior to much work being done on it. You can see the serrations from the milling of the octagon flats in this picture. Removing them is the first objective of draw filing.
When draw filing it it imperative to keep the file perfectly flat on the barrel's flat. This is impossible to do actually, but I can come close by holding the file with two hands very close to the barrel. I let my thumbs from each hand ride on the flats on either side of the flat I am filing. I can't show my hands in this picture and still take the picture, so you have to imagine it I guess. Actually, I prefer to push my file instead of "drawing" (pulling) it towards me. Either way, works. Here you can see that the flat appears to be concave in cross section, since the center of the flat is untouched by the file while the left and right edges are being worked by the file. This is actually a sign that I am not holding the file perfectly flat on the barrel. It is impossible not to rock from side to side very slightly. But minimize this all you can. And whatever you do, do not let the file slip off the edges of the flat or you will cut deep serrations in the edges of the barrel. They are all but impossible to file out w/o swamping the barrel, and you not want that.
As an alternative to holding the file crosswise and pulling or pushing it along the flat, I sometimes put the file lengthwise on the flat and push it along. I don't do this much, but it works for going over dovetails and some other issues of irregularity initially. It also is much easier to hold it flatter to the barrel. If you do this, be sure that the tail of the file is not scratching a groove as you go. This particular Nicholson file happens to have a stamp on the handle on one side that really protrudes and scratches up the surface. Also, filing this way makes it easy to clog the file and that leads to galling of the surface you are trying to smooth. So only one or two strokes, then clean and repeat.
Keeping the file clean is really REALLY REALLY important. Just one speck of steel filings in the teeth will cause a nasty groove in your surface that will be very very hard to get out on the next step (wet/dry paper or fine emory cloth). The tricks are hard to find, but for me, I make a few strokes, clean with my thumb. I also use a very new file (a small 6" Nicholson in this case), and I make a point to clear my filings from the surface and never file over loose filings on the barrel. Here you can see a single speck of steel clogging that will gouge my barrel if I continue w/o clearing it. I use a file carding brush on the stubborn clogs.
Keeping files clean and sharp can be a lot easier if they are stored carefully. This is where my files hang out when not in use.
If done right, the barrel should be very uniformly smooth and white. I use a light off to the side to try to shadow line grooves and gouges and I touch those up before moving on to the next flat. BTW, I always start out on the bottom flats and then work up the sides, leaving the top flats to last, when I have myself well practiced and warmed up. I want my best work on those top flats that I will see the most often. Also, when I file a barrel, I can't stroke the entire length from on end to the other like I can when using the wet/dry paper later in the process. If I do, I either tilt the file too much or I clog the teeth and gouge the barrel. So, I so strokes of 5-7 inches at a time. And I go up and down the barrel several times for each flat, being careful to overlap sections well, and not cause low spots in a flat due to filing too much at one location. Later, I'll be running paper, backed by hard blocks of wood, the entire length of the barrel to make sure the surface is flat from front to back as well as left to right. Flatness is everything here and anything less than the best job possible is instantly visible in the final product (even though you may not notice it right now prior to the blueing).
I'll post some more pics at the process goes along. It will become a messy job soon, making pictures a bit harder, but I'll manage or hire my wife to take some
Oh yeah, one more thing - you really gotta try to be smarter than me when you pull the barrel off.... This is just one example of why I am not a gunsmith.
Last edited by BrentD on Tue Dec 30, 2014 8:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: The Phoenix Marlin
Your doing a real nice job on that old Marlin.
- Shasta
- Senior Levergunner
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Re: The Phoenix Marlin
I really appreciate your taking the time to document the restoration of your Marlin. Not many of us possess the knowledge and skill required for such an undertaking (I know I sure don't!)
SHASTA
SHASTA
California Rifle & Pistol Association LIFE Member
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http://www.hcrpclub.org/schedule.html
avatar pic is Shasta Dam, Shasta Lake, & Mt. Shasta
National Rifle Association BENEFACTOR LIFE Member
http://www.hcrpclub.org/schedule.html
avatar pic is Shasta Dam, Shasta Lake, & Mt. Shasta
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Re: The Phoenix Marlin
Great Post Thanks.
- Rube Burrows
- Advanced Levergunner
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Re: The Phoenix Marlin
going to be a great looking rifle. Heck, already looking pretty good.
Re: The Phoenix Marlin
How is it going with the restoration?
Steve
Steve
Re: The Phoenix Marlin
I got slowed down a bit. I'm working on finishing the wood right now and I am not too happy with it. A bit splotchy (I used some red dye in the oil), but I think I finally turned the corner with it. I'm also adding some finish to a muzzleloader stock in preparation for sending it off for checkering later this week.
I have the metal all filed, so I'll be starting on the wet paper work with that soon. It cramps my fingers big time but I sort of like doing it.
The other obstacle is that the floor guy showed up today. We are having all the wood floors (95% of the house) redone and I have to butcher the kitchen island in advance of that to reduce the size of its footprint. But the gun work will continue. It has to to be ready by spring for load development. Alaska won't wait.
I have the metal all filed, so I'll be starting on the wet paper work with that soon. It cramps my fingers big time but I sort of like doing it.
The other obstacle is that the floor guy showed up today. We are having all the wood floors (95% of the house) redone and I have to butcher the kitchen island in advance of that to reduce the size of its footprint. But the gun work will continue. It has to to be ready by spring for load development. Alaska won't wait.
Re: The Phoenix Marlin
Great job so far.
I cannot wait to get some tips on the rust blue.
Pop.
I cannot wait to get some tips on the rust blue.
Pop.
Re: The Phoenix Marlin
Pop, I'll post the rust bluing in detail. I love doing it. It can almost be choreographed like a ballet.
And the best part is anyone with two good hands can do it just as well as any custom gun maker, and with very little in the way of equipment.
And the best part is anyone with two good hands can do it just as well as any custom gun maker, and with very little in the way of equipment.
- GonnePhishin
- Senior Levergunner
- Posts: 1952
- Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 11:23 pm
- Location: Bodecker's BBQ Bar & Grill
Re: The Phoenix Marlin
Great explanation of how you do the file work. And a lot of work it is. Do you put a light coat of oil on the freshly filed metal so it won't start to develop rust or is that something you don't have to worry about if kept warm and dry?
"The beauty of the second amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it." - Thomas Jefferson
"I know not what course other men may take, but as for me, Give me Liberty or Give me Death!" - Patrick Henry
"I know not what course other men may take, but as for me, Give me Liberty or Give me Death!" - Patrick Henry
Re: The Phoenix Marlin
It is warm and dry in my shop so that will be fine. And really a little surface rust wouldn't matter at this point. I'll be attacking it next with 150 grit w/d and proceeding from there. So long as pitting avoided, then I'm okay.
The stocks are drying now. I wish I could film a video of doing the final coats. Here, a movie would be worth a thousand words. I loosely follow the directions that come with Pilkington's gun finishing oil. If you follow them, you cannot go wrong. But I do the things a little different. For me, the toughest part is getting those last coats on smooth and even. I wipe them on with my fingers in long sweeping motions along the grain in both directions. In the right light, I can avoid streaky build up. With one more coat on the muzzleloader and maybe several more on the lever rifle stock, they will be ready to polish out with rottenstone and then the muzzleloader will go off to the checkerer.
I'll be back to polishing the metal by this weekend if the kitchen work doesn't get in the way. (and a few more pheasants to close the season).
The stocks are drying now. I wish I could film a video of doing the final coats. Here, a movie would be worth a thousand words. I loosely follow the directions that come with Pilkington's gun finishing oil. If you follow them, you cannot go wrong. But I do the things a little different. For me, the toughest part is getting those last coats on smooth and even. I wipe them on with my fingers in long sweeping motions along the grain in both directions. In the right light, I can avoid streaky build up. With one more coat on the muzzleloader and maybe several more on the lever rifle stock, they will be ready to polish out with rottenstone and then the muzzleloader will go off to the checkerer.
I'll be back to polishing the metal by this weekend if the kitchen work doesn't get in the way. (and a few more pheasants to close the season).