What do you use to polish before bluing?

[FatJackDurham]

I am getting ready to polish the parts before bluing. I still have some pits to rub out here and there. up till now, I have used Emory cloth, which seems to break down fairly quickley, and also wet or dry paper, which lasts longer.

I saw some Metalite roles and sheets on brownells. Has anyone used those? And what about a polishing wheel. Should I polish the parts on that before bluing?

I want to get a nice even finish, not necessarily glossy, on my Lemonton. I notice that so far with the emory cloth and wet or dry, its leaving a lot of little scratches even after bluing. I'll be trying belgian blue this time, not rust bluing, so i didnt know if that was less l forgiving of scratches and if I should polish up higher thatn 320.

Thoughts, tips and suggestions?

[stretch]

Jack - You need to go much finer with the wet-n-dry.
600 wet - with just a drop of dish detergent. Or 600
wet-n-dry with a little bit of oil. 3-in-1, or gun oil, or
maybe ATF. A lighter sort of oil, anyway

Polishing with a wheel will give you a high polish before
blueing. It will also show every little tiny pit, scratch and
mistake that was ever made in the firearm's finish.

I'd do it to the 600 (or 800 evn!) grit wet-n-dry stage, blue
a little bit and see how it looks. Then you can decide whether
or not to polish it up more.

-Stretch

[Sixgun]

Like Stretch says, stay off the polishing wheel. In addition to what he said, it will round off corners and basically, unless you are an expert at it, will leave some areas shinier than others.

On flat surfaces, always use a block of wood as a backing....keep edges sharp and other areas from dishing out. I start with 220 and never go above 400.....but that's me. I have done the 800 thing but because rust blue eats into the steel, you never seem to retain the bright shine, besides, its hard to get the blue to go into the steel with such a smooth finish. How Winchester did it in the day still amazes me.

I just completed a set of barrels for a Remington double barrel for a guy and they came out very nice. That will keep me in primers and powder for awhile. ----------------Sixgun

[FatJackDurham]

What types of papers? I have seen Metalite, which a gunsmithing book recommends using with mineral spirits. Stretch, do you mean water with a drop of dish soap, or just a drop of dish soap?

Thanks for clearing up the polishing wheel. I'll do it by hand like the last two times, but I tend to get splotches. I didnt know if it was because I hadnt sanded enough or had contaminents on the metal.

last time, I degreased with a grease solvent, kind of like a soap and I used well water. I ended up with a brown finish, it never blackened up. I had the same result when i test belgian blue on the butt plate. I redid it with distilled water and acetone, and that worked better, so I think that is how I will do it from now on.

[6pt-sika]

I just completed a set of barrels for a Remington double barrel for a guy and they came out very nice. That will keep me in primers and powder for awhile. ----------------Sixgun

If you can find the stuff , unless of course he actually paid you with powder and primers

My main distributer is still telling me SOL when I order primers and powder for the most part !

[Chuck 100 yd]

I generally use wet or dry paper and run it dry. I don`t like the mess of lubricants or water and the metal stays cleaner IMHO. Some say the paper will last longer with lube but it is inexpensive and new paper cuts with much less effort and gives a better finish because it is new and sharp. Again IMHO...
As to the grade of paper to finish with depends on the finish you want to end up with. That said I rarely go beyond 400 grit grit but have gone to 1200 for a couple of ones that were hot tank blued. I stop at 400 for a rust blue job.

[stretch]

Jack, water with a drop of dish detergent in it.

Emery paper can be right coarse, and that may
leave some deep scratches. Experiment a little
bit with how long it takes to remove the emery paper marks.

-Stretch

[DPris]

I use my gunsmith.
Over the years I've found it has the best chances of a satisfactory result.
By FAR.
Denis

[FatJackDurham]

haha! Never thought of that! A gunsmith? The Devil you say!

Cant stop now....

[FatJackDurham]

Is it necessary to move from grit to grit:
120 -> 180 ->220 -> 280 ->320 -> 360 -> 400

I notice sometimes form 120 to 200 its harder to get the scratches out.

I was tipped to a nice cheap source of sand paper, but even at their low prices, all the above in 50 packs (the minimum size) costs about $150.

[harry]

Is it necessary to move from grit to grit:
120 -> 180 ->220 -> 280 ->320 -> 360 -> 400

I notice sometimes form 120 to 200 its harder to get the scratches out.

I was tipped to a nice cheap source of sand paper, but even at their low prices, all the above in 50 packs (the minimum size) costs about $150.

I wouldn't start any lower than 320,

[Chuck 100 yd]

Sometimes you have to start with a file. It depends on how rough the gun is.
If from filing ,I will usually go to 150 and then 220 , next to 320 and finally to 400.
Stay with each grit until absolutely no scratches from the previous grit can be seen.
from that point I will go to the buffing wheel if a high polish is wanted.

[FatJackDurham]

Thanks, that is what I have been doing, but I wondered if it was more proper to progress 60 grit at a time.

I am going to order only up to 360 grit as most blues I have tried so far tend to dull the finish above that anyway and blend 320 to 360 marks anyway. I am getting my orders ready for when I get paid this week.

Yea, though I am walking through the buttered pasta and ramen noodles end of my pay period, verily I shall be rich come Friday, when I receiveith the first of three paychecks in the same month!!!!!