Cleaning Ruger Mini-14

[getitdone1]

Can anything be added to the Ruger Mini-14 cleaning instructions that come with the gun. I have a used gun but just found these instructions on the internet. Any particular part(s) that must be oiled and what parts to be sure to leave free of oil? My gun is stainless steel and I'm thinking leave it dry for the most part so as not to attract dirt.

My main question: Is it eventually necessary to clean the the gas port hole. The Ruger instructions say to leave this area alone.

Don

[new pig hunter]

After 7+ years and lots of rounds, I have never cleaned the gas port hole.

The interface of the MS23700 Slide Assembly and the MS03600 Piston (Gas Pipe): I alway make sure the Piston is well lubed. I have had the Slide Assembly actually stick to the Piston, requiring a sharp downward rap of the buttstock onto the floor to break it loose.
http://www.okiegunsmithshop.com/rugerminiranch.jpg

Here's another diagram, Parts 8 and 10:
http://www.ruger.com/products/_expViews ... xpView.pdf


Cheers,

Carl

[AJMD429]

I bought a used Mini that had the piston really pitted, but it is a 2-minute job to replace it with a new one. The Mini was blued, but I ordered a 'stainless' piston. I'm assuming the prior owner used 'corrosive' ammo or something. The gun shot ok, even with the severely pitted piston.

Never did much else but maybe grease-up the bolt 'roller' (no rollers since the very early Mini's) with whatever was handy.

[Gary]

Ruger has two official videos on YouTube that are great for disassembly and reassembly. I follow those when cleaning. my Mini 14.

[Hillbilly]

The Mini is a Garand -cloned action. the bolt rollers and guide rod need "grease". Other than that...clean and oil as any other rifle. If you can find it, GI grease (Lubriplate)- works best... but I have used red bearing grease and white lithium with good results too.

The gas port .... a pipe cleaner (those zuzzy rods used for cleaning tobacco pipes -- I find them at craft stores sometimes) and some solvent work wonders. I doubt it needs to be cleaned very often... but I just dont like leaving residues when they can be wiped away easily

[olyinaz]

I have never done anything more than wipe the carbon off of my gas pipe in 25+ years. Everything else gets an oily rag wipe down for corrosion protection and the bolt and op rod get a bit of grease. Done.

Oly

[getitdone1]

This is the first time I've taken it apart. It's a beautiful example of simplicity and durable parts.

Trade it in on a Mini-30? I might do that.

Don

[O.S.O.K.]

This is the first time I've taken it apart. It's a beautiful example of simplicity and durable parts.

Trade it in on a Mini-30? I might do that.

Don

If you get a mini-30, make sure it's the new model with thicker tapered barrel. The older ones are really poor shooters - accuracy-wise.

I'm talking 6"+ at 100 yards.

[getitdone1]

This gun has a screw above the hole for the sling swivel and it appears it's used to adjust the amount of gas that works the action.

Surely that's what it's for. Can anyone tell me how to adjust this properly? It's out in the open, no disassembly needed. Takes Allen/hex wrench.

I recently had a jam with it--empty lodged between bolt and receiver, facing forward. Using Remington 223 ammo and not 5.56. Gun not very dirty when I took it apart and cleaned it. Have also had several jams with 5.56 ammo so don't think I'll use it any more. Cheap, hardball stuff. This Ranch Rifle made in 1996 and is stainless.

Don

[AJMD429]

This gun has a screw above the hole for the sling swivel and it appears it's used to adjust the amount of gas that works the action.

Surely that's what it's for. Can anyone tell me how to adjust this properly? It's out in the open, no disassembly needed. Takes Allen/hex wrench.

Cool...! I think I've seen ads for some kind of adjustable gas-block (Brownell's...?), and they are pretty expensive, so keep that in mind if you ever sell the gun.


http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2137 ... -GAS-BLOCK

The design of the Mini-14 seems pretty impervious to various .223 loads, but the idea would be to only put as much 'gas' into the piston area as needed for proper function, with a given load. They make them for AR-15's, Garands, and M-1A's (Schuster's Gas Plug, among others).

For the Schuster's, there is a 'starting point' they recommend, but basically, you turn the hex screw until the gun won't cycle your ammo, then turn it until it cycles it reliably, plus maybe some half-turn after - you get the idea. The idea is to put less 'strain' on the action by reducing forces to the minimum needed for reliable function, plus perhaps enhance accuracy for the same reason.

You can also set it for 'single-shot' use, to allow the gun to be used as a 'straight-pull' bolt-action. That is nice if shooting off a bench, especially when someone is on your right who doesn't like brass in their face. Supposedly a properly adjusted rifle will toss all the empties in one neat little pile, demonstrating uniformity of gas-into-action.

They also can help adjust for proper gas pressure with accessories like 'grenade' or golf-ball launchers, or to improve results using suppressors.

Anyway, it may be something totally different, but I'll bet that's what you've got.

[getitdone1]

AJMD429,

You are exactly right. One exception: The one on my gun looks the same but is made by Accuracy Systems, Byers, Colorado. Possible they also make them for Brownells. They are on the internet. http://www.mini14gasblock.com

Well....glad I have this neat add-on! I'll do some adjusting of screw tomorrow and report back. Right now it appears to be screwed out quite a bit and will begin by screwing it in about a half turn at a time and watch how far it slings the brass each time. Would like to know optimum reliability setting. I suppose an X number of feet it throws the brass would get me close to ultimate reliability--or would it?

I have the "old style" they show at their site. They have a "new style" too.

Well now, I go to Brownells site and see they say theirs is made by Accuracy Systems. You can pay Brownells over 140 or pay Accuracy Systems 110. Quite a difference in price. And it will be considered in on the price if I ever sell or trade this gun.

Don

This gun has a screw above the hole for the sling swivel and it appears it's used to adjust the amount of gas that works the action.

Surely that's what it's for. Can anyone tell me how to adjust this properly? It's out in the open, no disassembly needed. Takes Allen/hex wrench.

Cool...! I think I've seen ads for some kind of adjustable gas-block (Brownell's...?), and they are pretty expensive, so keep that in mind if you ever sell the gun.


http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2137 ... -GAS-BLOCK

The design of the Mini-14 seems pretty impervious to various .223 loads, but the idea would be to only put as much 'gas' into the piston area as needed for proper function, with a given load. They make them for AR-15's, Garands, and M-1A's (Schuster's Gas Plug, among others).

For the Schuster's, there is a 'starting point' they recommend, but basically, you turn the hex screw until the gun won't cycle your ammo, then turn it until it cycles it reliably, plus maybe some half-turn after - you get the idea. The idea is to put less 'strain' on the action by reducing forces to the minimum needed for reliable function, plus perhaps enhance accuracy for the same reason.

You can also set it for 'single-shot' use, to allow the gun to be used as a 'straight-pull' bolt-action. That is nice if shooting off a bench, especially when someone is on your right who doesn't like brass in their face. Supposedly a properly adjusted rifle will toss all the empties in one neat little pile, demonstrating uniformity of gas-into-action.

They also can help adjust for proper gas pressure with accessories like 'grenade' or golf-ball launchers, or to improve results using suppressors.

Anyway, it may be something totally different, but I'll bet that's what you've got.

[getitdone1]

Gave the adjustable gas block some adjusting today. Shot it first as it's always been since I bought it used. That empty went about 20 feet. Took Allen wrench and gave the screw a 1/2 turn in and that empty went about 10 feet. Gave it another 1/2 turn in and that empty went about 3 feet. Then it wouldn't fire for the next shot so I pulled the bolt back and nothing in the chamber. So...the last 1/2 turn was too much and didn't allow enough gas to push the bolt back all the way. Opened it up a 1/2 turn and have left it there. Shot about 10 more rounds without a problem, some very fast. Hope I've hit the "sweet spot."

As they advertise, this adjustable gas block is nice when you go to a commercial shooting range and can't have brass hitting the guy next to you. Also if you get it set just right for a particular load it should prevent unecessary wear and tear on the gun. Seems to me, when you're shooting alone or without people next to you, the empties should fly about 10 feet when the gas block is set right for the load. I could be wrong.

By the way, I have a 1-4X Leupold scope coming and it'll go on this Mini-14. It came with the Ruger rings. This scope may end-up on my Browning BLR 308 and the Burris FastFire II go from the BLR to the Mini-14. Probably make a little more sense. However, like I said here before, I have other better long range guns than this Browning. It'll be fun arriving at the final solution.

While testing the gas block this evening I took the gun with it's factory peep sights and aimed it at various trees in the woods. I did the same a few days ago with my Browning with FastFire sight and this red dot sight wins by a whole bunch! Well...until I drop it hard, which isn't too likely.

Don

[AJMD429]

Cool. Keep us updated - I may get one of them for my Mini-14 someday (like I really need another 'gun gadget' to tinker with...).

The 'Ranch Rifle' has a buffer system supposedly less destructive to the average optical sight than the 'Mini-14' (there is a difference in the way the proximal end of the recoil-spring is fixed to the receiver). Supposedly, the adjustable gas-blocks make the regular Mini-14's even more 'scope-friendly' than the Ranch Rifles. I guess you'll find out.

I like my Burris FastFire-II on my 'Night Scout' leverguns, but haven't tried one on the Mini-14.

I'd be interested to see if you notice an improvement in accuracy with the Mini-14 as you go through the various adjustment setting for that gas-block. Please keep us updated...!

[Malamute]

Doc, I think Don has a Ranch rifle. If it has factory rings, that's about the only possibilty. The standard mini-14's don't use any rings, or have no scope capability without an aftermarket base/rings.

The old standard mini's had a spring loaded ejector in the face of the bolt, like an M-1 Garand does, they didnt throw the brass that far or as wildly, the Ranch guns had a solid ejector that threw brass hard enough to qualify as secondary projectiles.

Don, as far as utmost reliability, I'd think wide open/full power ejection would be most reliable.

[getitdone1]

Malamute,

The previous owner must have had it set wide open or close to it because it would throw the brass as far as 30 feet. I don't know if that screw has a "stop" on it or if it will come out if I unscrew it enough.

As I've mentioned before, I had a Remington 223 ctg jam between receiver and bolt, facing forward. I think this may have been a combination of dirty chamber and too much force by extractor on rim causing extractor to slip over rim. Perhaps my recent cleaning of the gun, and chamber, plus my present reduced gas setting will stop this type of jam.

I plan to call the manufacturer of this adjustable gas block and expect they can tell me all I need to know to make this gun as reliable as possible. No doubt they've had a lot of calls in this regard. They are probably experts on the Mini-14 and just about have to be in order to be sure to make their product as reliable as possible.

You may be right and maximum setting might be most reliable. Evidently that's what the former owner thought. I'll know for sure before long.

Yes, mine's the Ranch Rifle with built-in base for scope rings. A neat, strong feature.

Don

[Malamute]

Don, usually when a chamber is dirty, the extractor will rip the rim off trying to pull it out of the chamber. It may be a weak extractor spring, or wear on the extractor, or may just be a fluke. It sounds like it could be a weak gas impulse also, which I would expect if the gas adjustment was set too low, but I believe you mentoned it happened when it was open.

All the Ranch rifles I've had or seen threw brass waaay the heck out there, as is common with self loaders with fixed ejectors. I didnt like that feature of the Ranch rifles after having the standard mini's. The standard guns had the spring loaded plunger like an M-1 Garand, and would pile the brass closer to the shooter and closer together.

[olyinaz]

Ejection is ridiculous on the Ranch Rifles (early models being the worst I suspect) - I could kill squirrels at my 3 o'clock - but the other side of that coin is I've never, EVER had a jam with my Mini-14 using a factory magazine. "Eh-vuh." [Oly wags finger and swaps head back and forth sideways.]

Oly

[getitdone1]

For what it's worth a rep of the adjustable gas block tells me via e-mail that the empties should be thrown about 6-10 feet. I'm at the 10-12 foot mark now and will stay with that as long as reliable.

Originally, as I said, the former owner had it adjusted to where it was throwing the empties 25-30 feet. That's no exageration. I've read when the gun gets dirty and then causes a problem you can adjust for more gas until you can clean it. The extra gas will drive the bolt, etc. through the crud.

With Leupold 1-4x scope set on 4x it appears this gun is about a 3-4" grouper at 100 yds--from a rickety bench and sandbag rests. Don't care for the trigger and may get that improved. I've read, many times, this gun is famous for reliability. My gun is still being tested but if found wanting will find the answer. For what it is, it's a really neat gun. Love the robustness of the parts.

Don

[AJMD429]

I've read, many times, this gun is famous for reliability. My gun is still being tested but if found wanting will find the answer. For what it is, it's a really neat gun. Love the robustness of the parts.

It's basically a mineature semiauto M-14, or mineature M1-A, thus the name "Mini-14". Unfortunately, the bedding and the skinny barrel didn't reproduce the potential accuracy of the M-14, and the ghastly-looking, gas-crud-into-the-action "AR" platform guns tend to be the most accurate of all. Still, the Mini-14 is a great 'go-to' gun, and if you're more into plinking/ranch/survival use, then it's one of the best buys out there.

Several companies will 'accurize' your Mini-14 if you really want more accuracy, but you're getting more than average, and plenty for most uses. If you want 'pinpoint' accuracy, get an AR-15 or bolt-gun.

[Hillbilly]

I've read, many times, this gun is famous for reliability. My gun is still being tested but if found wanting will find the answer. For what it is, it's a really neat gun. Love the robustness of the parts.

It's basically a mineature semiauto M-14, or mineature M1-A, thus the name "Mini-14". Unfortunately, the bedding and the skinny barrel didn't reproduce the potential accuracy of the M-14, and the ghastly-looking, gas-crud-into-the-action "AR" platform guns tend to be the most accurate of all. Still, the Mini-14 is a great 'go-to' gun, and if you're more into plinking/ranch/survival use, then it's one of the best buys out there.

Several companies will 'accurize' your Mini-14 if you really want more accuracy, but you're getting more than average, and plenty for most uses. If you want 'pinpoint' accuracy, get an AR-15 or bolt-gun.

He's pretty much on target here. Mine is minute-of -milk jug at 100 yards (using Wolf ammo)... about the only giant problem is the Mini will start stringing shots as it heats up... and they stay hot a long time after a slow 20 round string of fire. But for a truck gun, that works every time.. my Mini 14 is about as good as it gets for a "cold bore" shooter.