RagaFrasnGorldurn Humidity...

[Old Ironsights]

Not sure what kind of bluing/browning is on that Drilling of mine (Joe? ideas?) But I had to spend over an hour detailing it with fine copper wool & RIG to get all of the flash rust off of the surface (the bore was fine... go figure...) - even though I have RIG whiped on all the surfaces at all times.

Not even my "In the White" Howda had as much rust on it.

Just what int the heck do I need to do tho keep that thing from turning red?

[Blaine]

Wow.....Do your others do that? Here in WA, I have good luck with Pledge or WD40...usually the same rag has some of both on there.... I'm not going to say I never get a speck, but that's about it. A tiny speck every 10 blue moons or so.... Just a thought, but if you have slathered on something that traps the moisture UNDER it, that might be the problem. Use something thin so it gets air to the metal.

[Old Ironsights]

No, just the one. My Damascus Double was fine and even the Zulu was OK... but the drilling is a rust magnet...

[Rimfire McNutjob]

Wax? Of course, wax may not be practical, but I'm pretty sure that's what they use for long term preservation of firearms at museums.

[C. Cash]

Maybe it's rejecting your arrogant American oil and wants a good dose of Ballistol! Europeans.......

[C. Cash]

Wow.....Do your others do that? Here in WA, I have good luck with Pledge or WD40...usually the same rag has some of both on there.... I'm not going to say I never get a speck, but that's about it. A tiny speck every 10 blue moons or so.... Just a thought, but if you have slathered on something that traps the moisture UNDER it, that might be the problem. Use something thin so it gets air to the metal.

I was thinking the same thing. I would degrease it completely and start over.....see if it helps.

[Blaine]

Of course, if it's driving you to distraction, just send it to me and I'll take a few years and figger out what the issue is.....

[Noah Zark]

Corrosion-X works the best for me.

I have an HS-2000 9mm pistol (forerunner of the Springfield XD9) that has a very fine black phosphate finish on the silde. That slide would develop very sight surface rust every few months despite being oiled with gun oil or CLP, or Ballistol.

Then a client gave me 3/4 of a gallon of Corrosion-X Aviation, a greenish-tinted low viscosity oil with a slight odor of sassafras. I applied the C-X Aviation to the HS2000 slide about three times in as many weeks, and that was going on five years ago. The slide has NOT rusted since, not once, not even a bit. I re-oil once a year with C-X Aviation, and use it on all the rest of my firearms and edged weapons.

The owner of the Corrosion-X company is/was a member of the S&W Forum, and he told me in an e-mail that "it doesn't matter" which flavor of Corrosion-X one uses on firearms. He makes Corrosion-X, Corrosion-X Aviation with a viscosity modifier to stick to the fuselage without running too much, and Corrosion-X for Guns, with a slightly lower viscosity. The active ingredient, a molecular film-forming additive that blocks oxygen, is present in all three flavors in equal amounts. Mike said that ANY of the C-X products will work fine on guns, and to "go ahead, by all means" and use the C-X Aviation my client gave me on my firearms. Good stuff.

http://www.corrosionx.com/

Noah

[JReed]

I had the same problem with my 1858's after this weekend and I didn't do any thing to them that I dont use in the front stuffers . Usually EVOO ( extra virgin olive oil for those that dont watch the food network) does the trick but not this time. Best of luck let us know what ends up working for ya.

[RSY]

I mentioned it before and will again: I highly recommend Birchwood-Casey's "Barricade" (formerly "Sheath"). It goes on thin and protects like crazy.

From the B-C website:

"Barricade® Rust Protection for Firearms
BARRICADE Rust Protection protects your firearms from rust. It rapidly drives out moisture from metal pores and deposits a transparent coating which seals the surface with a protective film. Withstands 500 hours in ASTM humidity test and 96 hours in ASTM salt spray test. BARRICADE Rust Protection is also an excellent penetrant for loosening rusty or frozen parts, as well as a good lubricant and an effective bore cleaner. Contains FPR to wipe off corrosive fingerprints on all your firearms. Available in spout or aerosol cans."

Give it a whirl.

Good luck,
Scott

[71fan]

I installed a GoldenRod in my safe about five years ago, and I've had no problems since. I put a thin coat of regular gun oil on and put them away.

I am a big fan. http://www.goldenroddehumidifiers.com/

[TedH]

I don't usually have any problems with surface rust, but I've often wondered how the aerosol silicone spray would work.

[FWiedner]

I've had good results preventing rust using a product called Sweetshooter.

http://www.sweetshooter.com/

[milton]

RSY is correct! A year ago I did my own rust tests here at the house by placing steel pieces outside for a few days .I used 12 different oils and waxes and the two best rust preventives were Birchwood Casey Sheath and Kroil.Some old Remoil did OK also but every thing else failed to some degree to protect the metal.

[Old Ironsights]

I installed a GoldenRod in my safe about five years ago, and I've had no problems since. I put a thin coat of regular gun oil on and put them away.

I am a big fan. http://www.goldenroddehumidifiers.com/

Got that in my safe already. It was 2 days in the field that got it going...

Looks like I'm going ot have to try Corrosion-X & BC/Baricade...

[awp101]

Corrosion-X works the best for me.

+1

I lube with RemOil, CLP, whatever I have on hand but the outside gets CX.

[Modoc ED]

Get the Rig grease off. Grease will actually attract moisture and trap it between the barrel and the grease. Even oil will attract moisture.

I use Corrosion X but many of the other remidies listed in the other posts will do. Johnson's paste wax has been a good preservative for years.

[RSY]

Let us know how it works out. It sounds like you have somewhat of an extreme situation and I'd like to know how whatever you choose ends up working for you.

Scott

[Old Ironsights]

Thanks for the feedback. I'm a bit suprised at the "get the grease off" comment (though not necessairly questioning it) because RIG stands for "rust inhibiting grease"... but at this point, for this gun, anyting is worth a try...

[C. Cash]

When I got my custom muzzleloader from the builder, I could not get the rust to stop on my barrel. I would go over it 2-3 times a day and every time would bring away not scale from the browning, but active, aggressive rust. This went on for almost 2 weeks. The only thing that stopped it was when I degreased it with alcohol. It stopped right then and there. There must have been some moisture under all the stuff I had slathered on it. After degreasing I ballistoled it and have never had a problem since.