win 94 barrel fit question

[FLINT]

quick question on barrel fit.

I've got a 60s era 94 receiver and one of the numrich 38-55 octagon barrels. it's been at the gunsmith for a while and today when I checked on it, he'd actually started working on it. He said that all the way tightened, the top of the barrel was a little past center. what is typically the solution for this issue? it seems it would be easier if was not all the way centered when tight right, then you just remove enough material off of the face until its centered? but if it goes past when tight what can you do? can't put material back on?

[1894cfan]

Other WILL know more, but I'd say shims? HTH

[Pat C]

Did he torque it past center or is it just hand tight and went past center?

You have to index to have some torque ,at least 1/16" -3/16" rotational prior to top dead center.

You could use precision steel shim but you will see it at frame face . Look like chit.

For me first step would be call Numrich ,Try anouther barrel.

Second step if that fails is to set back the chamber end one revolution of thread allowing for correct torque value.

Everything will be set back though shank length, extractor cut,rechamber , forend shortened ,mag tube shortened ,etc.

Most labor intensive but most professional way to fix.

[GunnyMack]

Yup, has to be set back enough to come almost a full turn to index the top flat on top. Like PatC said you have to chase the shank, extractor cuts and head space.

[Pat C]

If I was going to set it back I would make custom short rifle like Winchester did by taking 1" off rear of barrel. Re-set proper torque,shorten forend ,etc.

If you cannot do this yourself you'll pay more for modifying than you could have bought a brand new Winchester marked barrel from Winchester barrels ready to go.

Most gunsmiths will charge $150-$250 to set back,fit,and chamber that barrel.

[GunnyMack]

Another thought to the shim, make it from brass or stainless steel and celebrate it . That thin line of brass would stand out against a nice deep blue. Probably not for everyone but if you are strapped for funds then it's an inexpensive fix that will get you shooting!

[Griff]

Did he torque it past center or is it just hand tight and went past center?

You have to index to have some torque ,at least 1/16" -3/16" rotational prior to top dead center.

You could use precision steel shim but you will see it at frame face . Look like chit.

For me first step would be call Numrich ,Try another barrel.

Second step if that fails is to set back the chamber end one revolution of thread allowing for correct torque value.

Everything will be set back though shank length, extractor cut,rechamber , forend shortened ,mag tube shortened ,etc.

Most labor intensive but most professional way to fix.

This ↑↑↑ I got lucky, my Numrich barrel went on perfectly. But, if I'd had it done right, I should've had them turn mine a full turn in order to clean up a really rough chamber.

[FLINT]

Did he torque it past center or is it just hand tight and went past center?

You have to index to have some torque ,at least 1/16" -3/16" rotational prior to top dead center.

You could use precision steel shim but you will see it at frame face . Look like chit.

For me first step would be call Numrich ,Try anouther barrel.

Second step if that fails is to set back the chamber end one revolution of thread allowing for correct torque value.

Everything will be set back though shank length, extractor cut,rechamber , forend shortened ,mag tube shortened ,etc.

Most labor intensive but most professional way to fix.

Hand tight it is not past center. Only goes past center if he torques it all the way tight.

I'll check back in with him next week and see what he wants to do. Maybe he'll get it lined up and wrap it in duct tape or something.

Not sure if I can send it back to Numrich at this point. My wife bought it for me almost exactly 4 years ago now. It sat at one gunsmith for three years. I finally picked it up from there last year after it sat in his damp shop and rusted up good, then took it to this smith, who has had it almost a year - though he is looking at it now, so at least something is happening. If I ever get it back, it will probably blow up in my face the first time I fire it.

[Pat C]

Although this is 1892 carbine same thread detail as 1894. Photo shows ideal hand tight prior to indexing about 15 degrees rotational torque. Round barrels can be roll swaged to upset shoulder prior to install to increase torque. Octagons are a little harder to swage and will generally be noticeable unless refinished.

[FLINT]

ok, so it doesn't need to be tightened down as far as it will turn. seems like it might be ok then. That's about as tight as he got it by hand before needing the wrench. maybe will just need a little duct tape

[Pat C]

You stop tightening when it indexes top dead center extractor cuts lined up. Not until you can tighten anymore. He may have ruined the barrel if it was like what I showed and then he went past center.

He upset shoulder , it can be swaged back down with a mirror polished blocks and good vice or press to push upset metal back flat.

[FLINT]

Great

back to the duct tape idea

[Pat C]

Once a barrel has been overtorqued it has to be completely removed. Inspect the shoulder ,if it is upset (raised) it needs swaged back down. Once that's done hand tight it should stop against face and have at least 10-15 degrees of torque to top dead center .

[FLINT]

Terrific.

I guess I just have to hope that he didn't "screw" it all up.