Rossi 92 safety

[bcraig]

I know that most of you choose to remove the safety switch on top of the Rossi 92 but for now anyway I am going to keep it on top of mine But how do I stiffen up the operation of it so that it does not turn off and on so easily ?

Thanks

[JimT]

I wouldn't mess with trying to make it "better" ... with my old eyes the aperture rear sight on the bolt is the best solution.

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[JimT]

On my older Rossi '92 the safety was removed from the top of the bolt and the bottom was ground off it with a bench grinder. Enough metal was removed so that even if it got turned somehow it could no longer block the firing pin.

Next, metal was removed off the top of the "plug" until it was down close to same height as the top surface of the breech bolt. It was then polished, reblued, and reinstalled.

Using a small pick the pretty red and green paint was taken off of the "S" and "F" on the breech bolt and these were reblued also.

safety.jpg

[COSteve]

I wouldn't mess with trying to make it "better" ... with my old eyes the aperture rear sight on the bolt is the best solution.

I too opted to replace my plug with a peep sight on my carbine. Besides the obvious advantage of an increased sight radius of over 27%, 22" vs 16" on my 20" carbine,

I also benefit from a significantly clearer front sight and target as a result of the Depth of Field increase caused by the small aperture close to my eye. BTW, I've kept the plug on my rifle as it has a tang sight.

[JimT]

Tang sight is a good option also.

[Grizz]

it's smart to make the safety into one that can't kill you. a "safety" that can change its location is an invitation to sudden death. suppose i am in the woods and get charged by a 1500 pound bear, and i forget the safety, which i will if i do not use the "safety" every single time before I fire the rifle, and if I fire 10 rounds, and DON'T cycle the safety between each round, I will likely NOT use it before the bear is on me . . . . . not using the safety before every shot is training me to not use the safety. it's a stupid reason do die.

it's like the rear leaf sight on my ruger 77rs 338... I would be in the bear's woods looking for deer and i lost count how many times i found it folded flat on the barrel . . . . imagine seeing a 1700 pound fur ball approaching you at forty-something mph, and not having a rear sight.

I know, I know it's not a "safety", but it absolutely is a safety item if it can rotate itself down. The guide gun cross-bolt "safety" is notorious for exchanging its resting place. I stabilized mine so it won't kill me.

The transfer bar safety on handguns is the most ingenious safety and it is totally transparent in operation. Even communist flare signaling devices have transfer safeties !! Other than that, NO SAFETY is SAFER because you can train for that.

too much or too little coffee I suppose,

†
grizz

[bcraig]

I wouldn't mess with trying to make it "better" ... with my old eyes the aperture rear sight on the bolt is the best solution.

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I tried Aperture sights Several Years ago ,I tried the Skinner on a Marlin 30-30 along with an Ashley front sight and l
liked the Semi Buckhorn Rear sight that came on the gun Better.And like the bead front sight better the the Ashley front sight.

I also had a Skinner on a Marlin 39 22 that I tried to use for squirrel hunting,while it shot alright off a rest during broad daylight it did not work for me at all during either the early morning or late evening hours of hunting.

I also tried a Williams aperture sight that a friend had mounted on another Marlin and He also had one mounted on a Henry 22 Lever action.Same thing ,ok for broad daylight but not any good for me at either early morning or late evening.

I am going to try the Factory Semi Buckhorn and bead sights first and see how they work for me now .
If they stll work for me now I will Keep them as is ,If not then I will try something else.

Thanks

[bcraig]

On my older Rossi '92 the safety was removed from the top of the bolt and the bottom was ground off it with a bench grinder. Enough metal was removed so that even if it got turned somehow it could no longer block the firing pin.

Next, metal was removed off the top of the "plug" until it was down close to same height as the top surface of the breech bolt. It was then polished, reblued, and reinstalled.

Using a small pick the pretty red and green paint was taken off of the "S" and "F" on the breech bolt and these were reblued also.

safety.jpg

Some pretty good work Jim

I Might do this myself at some point in time but for right now I am going to keep it and just figure a way to make it stiffer to turn.

Thanks

[bcraig]

I wouldn't mess with trying to make it "better" ... with my old eyes the aperture rear sight on the bolt is the best solution.

I too opted to replace my plug with a peep sight on my carbine. Besides the obvious advantage of an increased sight radius of over 27%, 22" vs 16" on my 20" carbine,

I also benefit from a significantly clearer front sight and target as a result of the Depth of Field increase caused by the small aperture close to my eye. BTW, I've kept the plug on my rifle as it has a tang sight.

I have tried the Aperture sights years before and they just did not work for me like I told Jim.

I am going to try the factory sights to see if they still work for me ,If not I will try the Aperture sights again.

Thanks

[bcraig]

it's smart to make the safety into one that can't kill you. a "safety" that can change its location is an invitation to sudden death. suppose i am in the woods and get charged by a 1500 pound bear, and i forget the safety, which i will if i do not use the "safety" every single time before I fire the rifle, and if I fire 10 rounds, and DON'T cycle the safety between each round, I will likely NOT use it before the bear is on me . . . . . not using the safety before every shot is training me to not use the safety. it's a stupid reason do die.

Goodness sake,Where do I start !

That is why I asked about how to make the so called safety much harder to turn so it wont change location

About forgetting the safety I have hunted all my life and it was ingrained in me that I had to take the safety off as the rifle or shotgun was being raised to shoot,never had an issue with taking the safety off .
With any kind of safety just train to take it off as the gun is being raised.Or Train to cock the hammer on a Lever action rifle or single action pistol .

One thing a safety can do is when you are walking through the woods ,NOT using a safety ,whether a safety of a Remington 870 or 11OO will allow a limb or vine to pull the trigger causing an unwanted firing of the gun UNLESS the gun does not have one in the chamber.
I always have one in the chamber as I dont want to have to work the action to get one in the chamber,whether a pump,semi auto,single shot,bolt action,lever action or double barrel used for hunting or that matter for defense.

it's like the rear leaf sight on my ruger 77rs 338... I would be in the bear's woods looking for deer and i lost count how many times i found it folded flat on the barrel . . . . imagine seeing a 1700 pound fur ball approaching you at forty-something mph, and not having a rear sight.

I can see the flustration of the rear leafsight being folded when deer hunting but if the above scenario happens just look over the barrel as a reference and shoot ,much as you would do with a shotgun using slugs with no sights.or a pistol without using the sights.
On 1700 pounds of charging bear at forty mph you dont Have to have a rear sight or front sight for that matter .
Just practice to get the hang of it.

I know, I know it's not a "safety", but it absolutely is a safety item if it can rotate itself down. The guide gun cross-bolt "safety" is notorious for exchanging its resting place. I stabilized mine so it won't kill me.

Are you sure ?
What if one limb cocks the hammer and another limb or vine or a fall pulls the trigger?

The transfer bar safety on handguns is the most ingenious safety and it is totally transparent in operation. Even communist flare signaling devices have transfer safeties !! Other than that, NO SAFETY is SAFER because you can train for that.

Not all Pistols have transfer bar safetys
What if the trigger bar safety malfunctions and the gun will not fire ?
Which cost you a good shot at a game animal or gets you killed ?

Not neccasarily true,would you walk around in the woods or fields with a loaded shotgun without the safety on where branch or limbs or a stumble coud cause an unwanted firing of the gun?

And you can train to take the safety off of any gun .



too much or too little coffee I suppose,

Maybe !

Now I realize that a lot of this safety no safety talk is personel preference and what sounds good to one may
not sound all that great to another.

To Drink or not Drink? If so How Much ? Whiskey,Beer,Vodka ,Rum etc?
Like Women with Red hair Best ?,Blond ?Brunette ? etc

And to think that all this could have been avoided by just answering the question of how to make the saftey harder to turn !!
Said in all good spirit of course.

Speaking of drink
I may have a sip of Rye !!

Thanks

†
grizz

[COSteve]

I have tried the Aperture sights years before and they just did not work for me like I told Jim.
I am going to try the factory sights to see if they still work for me ,If not I will try the Aperture sights again.
Thanks

The secret to an aperture sight is how close it is to your eye. The Depth of Field (DoF) increase doesn't happen unless the aperture is very close to your eye. A barrel mounted peep sight is useless for increasing DoF as it's got more of a ghost ring size. Plus, it's way, way too far from your eye to do anything for DoF.

A cheap (free) and easy way to see if an aperture will help is to make one from some black tape. Take a hole punch and pop out a 1/4" circle of tape. Then poke a tiny hole in the center and finally place it on your shooting glasses where you sight through them.

I wear blended lens bi-focals and the tape spot is in the distance area. However, it doesn't matter where it is as the 'aperture' caused by the small hole is the controlling element, not your prescription there.

This is where a right handed shooter will usually sight through the glasses to aim. See how tiny the hole is you want and how close to your eye you want it ≈1". BTW, the black tape will disappear as it's too close to your eye to focus on but the middle where the hole is will magically be sharp and clear. Your front sight and the target, even if it's 300 yds away, will magically be in focus.

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[Grizz]

And to think that all this could have been avoided by just answering the question of how to make the saftey harder to turn !! Said in all good spirit of course. >>> of course. I only said what I did because you seem to not understand that a safety that is "harder to turn" is not safe. Bottoms Up.

Speaking of drink
I may have a sip of Rye !!

[bcraig]

I have tried the Aperture sights years before and they just did not work for me like I told Jim.
I am going to try the factory sights to see if they still work for me ,If not I will try the Aperture sights again.
Thanks

The secret to an aperture sight is how close it is to your eye. The Depth of Field (DoF) increase doesn't happen unless the aperture is very close to your eye. A barrel mounted peep sight is useless for increasing DoF as it's got more of a ghost ring size. Plus, it's way, way too far from your eye to do anything for DoF.

A cheap (free) and easy way to see if an aperture will help is to make one from some black tape. Take a hole punch and pop out a 1/4" circle of tape. Then poke a tiny hole in the center and finally place it on your shooting glasses where you sight through them.

I wear blended lens bi-focals and the tape spot is in the distance area. However, it doesn't matter where it is as the 'aperture' caused by the small hole is the controlling element, not your prescription there.

This is where a right handed shooter will usually sight through the glasses to aim. See how tiny the hole is you want and how close to your eye you want it ≈1". BTW, the black tape will disappear as it's too close to your eye to focus on but the middle where the hole is will magically be sharp and clear. Your front sight and the target, even if it's 300 yds away, will magically be in focus.

100_7674.jpg

My vision has always been bad and has been since I was a Kid.

Even at about 6 years old when I could not hit a baseball ,playing baseball on 'buddy league'which was what is now called Pee Wee league Baseball.
My Parents got my eyes checked and sure enough I needed glasses,extreemly near sighted.
As I got older I started wearing contacts .
Then I started to have issues at about 40 years of age with cataracts.

I let a eye doctor convince me that with cataract surgery my eyes would be 'like new'
Well ,he did the surgery and made one of my eyes for close up vision and the other for a farther type of vision .
We never discussed this and I have hated the effect of this method ever since.
I have astigmatism as well and well,it 'is what it is',better than being completely blind !

I have tried one of the Merit things that stick to your glasses and that did seem not help,it's around the house somewhere
Your guess is as good as mine as to where that might be though !

I have tried the Skinner aperture that Mounted on the Marlin at the rear of the reciever using the existing screws that would hold the rear of a scope base,I tried the different size apertures and taking the inserts out to use a Ghost ring effect.

I can use a scope just fine and have always shot with both eyes open using a scope,very fast that way ,and I can use a red dot sight fine ,even though the dot is not circular I just ignore that and can hit just fine with that.
I just much prefer the looks and lighter weight of a lever action without an optic on it.

Even though the the Mechanics of an aperture sight indicate that shooting should be better than Semi Buckhorn sights
I found that I shot the Semi Buck horn sights better than the aperture sight when I tried them before.
and to the degree that they worked was much better during broad daylight than the Hours that I was doing most of my hunting ,early morning and late evening .

But that was years ago and my eyes have worsened and I haven't hunted in years although I may start back again.
Strange how that worked as I used to live and breathe for hunting .
and now I have little to no interest in Killing a deer.
As I have heard others say I 'just dont have anything against them anymore'.
I still like to get out in the woods and watch them and the other critters like the birds,Coons, Squirrels,possums,armadillo,ducks,geese Beavers,mink ,muskrats along the water etc though.

So the Low light issues and the fact that my eyes have changed throught the years may indicate a need to try them again,especially since I dont need the lowlight capabilities for Hunting as of now.

I am just going to have to try the issue sights to see if they work well enough for my purposes .

Then go from there but I will try the tape method soon to help figure out the aperture .

Sounds like a good idea.

Thanks

[bcraig]

And to think that all this could have been avoided by just answering the question of how to make the saftey harder to turn !! Said in all good spirit of course. >>> of course. I only said what I did because you seem to not understand that a safety that is "harder to turn" is not safe. Bottoms Up.

Speaking of drink
I may have a sip of Rye !!

Perhaps The Terminology I used "Harder to turn' is because that is how the Safety operates ,it turns in its present form.
But the overall end result is that it would be more difficult for the safety to be inadvertanly turned off and on .
For a rough analogy conside a Remington Shotgun,Semi aito rifle or Pump Rifle or Shotgun.
Or a Ruger with a Wing Safety on the the side similiar to a Mauser or A Ruger 77 with a tang safety or Pick your poison of safety's.
Would you want a safety that moved to easily?

Picture the Remington Pump or Semi Auto that when carried in the hand that the safety is on when carried with the ejection port is carried with the port on thr right but when the gun is shifted in your hand the safety is so loose in its operation that the safety button will go to the right of left of its own weight.

Pisture a Ruger 77 with the wing type of safety that is engaged when held level but if the gun is tilted would move into the off or on position of its own weight ,Or a tang safety model 77 that will do the same when carried in anything other than a perfect vertical position.

The anology is that the Rossi safety turns to engave or disengage instead of Pushing a button to engage or disengage,or to rotate forward or backward to engage or disengage,or of a tang safety being pushed forward to disengage or pulled rearward to disengage.

I do understand that in its context that a Rossi 92 safety IS in fact safer than the same safety that rotates so easily it can either be on or off by the merest of barely touching it.

Whether a Safety Turns,Rotates,Pushes,I would think that No one wants a safety that is too easily engaged or disengaged or for that matter, too difficult to move without a herculean effort.


I understand Completely that a Safety that is Harder to turn ,slide, rotate or push IS in fact More safe than one that moves too easily in the context that you never know if it is on or off.
And Semantics aside, I think you do too.


Of course no safety is 100 % as they are all subject to malfunction .

The Best safety is to make sure that you dont have the gun pointed at something that you would not want to shoot in case the safety fails and the gun fires.

Whether that something is( Brush, vine ,limb ,trigger finger ET al,hits the trigger with the safety off and fires
Or when cocking or uncocking a hammer and the hammer slips from the hand,thumb and goes forward and breaks the half cock notch and the gun fires.

[oldebear1950]

When I was a lot younger, I was stationed in Kodiak, ALASKA, as per the fish and game, I always carried a Marlin 1895 45-70. Only time I saw bears was when I was deer hunting, and the fish and game up there said if they claim you deer kill, you should let em have it
every time one heard a rifle go off, was like ringing the dinner bell, two or three would come to claim the kill,

[oldebear1950]

and those were brownies, not black bears

[AJMD429]

.
Here is a bunch of photos and comments on various aperture sites I’ve tried, mostly on leverguns.

viewtopic.php?t=31831

You might find the Marbles Bullseye sight as one of the best for fast acquisition yet allowing precision shooting if you take an extra half second. The only problem is it’s drift-and-wedge adjustable like most factory barrel sights are. Someday I’d like to machine one of their sites that is not elevation adjustable to form an insert for a Williams FP receiver sight base, so it could be adjusted repeatably.

However, there is something to be said for a sight that once-adjusted basically won’t change, and in the firearms I use that sight on, I pretty much only use one load anyway so there’s no need to keep adjusting the zero once established.